I'm sure I got a short.

[bobbywalter]

KnKut 29 Piece Mechanics Length Step Point Drill Bit Set 1/16"-1/2" by 64ths

KnKut USA Made Step Point drill bits combine a split tip point with a step drill design for accurate starting without the need of a center punch. This distinctive design reduces heat to increase the tool life of the drill bit and can be used to enlarge existing holes without damaging the drill...

knkut.com

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@bobbywalter I see your points and agree mostly with them.

However for a 1994 and being a rust belt truck with a salvaged title.
Which I'm sure you know means that at some point in the past it was considered totaled.
Making it now a salvaged my truck.

It's really pretty damn clean.

The exhaust is actually also pretty clean except for those three flanges. It does need some new shocks and some other parts replaced.
It needs both front leaf spring brackets replaced.
The brakes need replaced all the way around. But they're not so bad to make it not drivable.

The body itself I only seen three rust spots.
1 of those is a bullet hole where the paint came off about 3 inches all the way around the hole making about a 6 inch diameter wound that has surface rust.

The 2nd of the rust spots is underneath the bed liner at the rear of the bed, about center maybe a foot in from the tailgate.
There's a little crack that's about an inch and a half long and the edges of it has rust on it.

The 3rd rust spot is on the front of the hood about center and it's maybe 2 in long. And it's just surface rust as well.

I'll look it over closer in the near future and take some pictures.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@bobbywalter those do look like some good bits.
But that's money I don't have and most likely won't have anytime in the near future.

 

[bobbywalter]

@bobbywalter I see your points and agree mostly with them.

However for a 1994 and being a rust belt truck with a salvaged title.
Which I'm sure you know means that at some point in the past it was considered totaled.
Making it now a salvaged my truck.

It's really pretty damn clean.

The exhaust is actually also pretty clean except for those three flanges. It does need some new shocks and some other parts replaced.
It needs both front leaf spring brackets replaced.
The brakes need replaced all the way around. But they're not so bad to make it not drivable.

The body itself I only seen three rust spots.
1 of those is a bullet hole where the paint came off about 3 inches all the way around the hole making about a 6 inch diameter wound that has surface rust.

The 2nd of the rust spots is underneath the bed liner at the rear of the bed, about center maybe a foot in from the tailgate.
There's a little crack that's about an inch and a half long and the edges of it has rust on it.

The 3rd rust spot is on the front of the hood about center and it's maybe 2 in long. And it's just surface rust as well.

I'll look it over closer in the near future and take some pictures.

well....apparently you have never seen my junk. i run salvaged titles as well.

and you are totally missing the point. i live in the worst of the rust belt. metro detroit.

rust belt means exactly that. nothing stays nice with your exhaust system...or frame.

those three exhaust areas are always the issue.

if the bolts...or if there is something that looks like a bolt comes out....hurray.

i dont expect that. dont even have that as a goal....but if it comes apart will live with the happy accident.

if the converters are rotten and the bolts shot but solidly together....you do a slip cut post converter and snap off the studs at the manifolds....and drop er out of there........

and just leave the manifolds alone. unless the manifolds were cracked or had snapped off bolts already in the head, you just leave it....

this is a minutes thing. no hassle....no concerns. you know its gonna be a trainwreck and that is the cost effective way deal with it in time and money..

its a bit of a pia to get the cuff on the manifold side but way easier than anything else.

reassembly is a minutes thing.


think of it this way.

it should have took longer to fill the transmission up and burp it, then to R&R the rust belt level exhaust.

rust belt level means it is not worth the effort to put a whole new system on that will be a rotten pos in 2 years worse than the 30year old oem because the after market diy crap isnt even close.


this is post facto advise....but has always been my advice. i do this ....ALLOT.

i feel bad that you took such an ass whoopin on this.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

@bobbywalter
I for sure did take an ass whooping

I took the ass whooping because I'm broke.
And I'm totally out of shape and have arthritis in all my joints.

Most of the down time my truck has had being broke down is because I had to buy 1 part at a time. And I don't want to assemble one piece at a time until I had all the parts so I could just assemble everything.

I also had to wait for my brother's scheduled to open up when it comes to the initial using the jack to remove the transmission.
And then using the jack to put the transmission back in place.

I couldn't afford to buy new exhaust manifolds.
I had to drill out them studs.
So I can now use bolts and nuts in their place like your talking about.

I'd be willing to bet my exhaust is factory and therefore been on there since 1994.
Which makes it even harder to get apart.

I'm out of shape and have arthritis in all my joints. So I couldn't get the drill and drill bit to put enough pressure on the studs while the manifolds were mounted to the motor.

I'm working outside with my truck up on jack stands, which with my arthritis made things worse.
And I have to deal with the weather as well.

So all of that combined did kick my ass for sure.

A friend of my brother gave me some advice the other day that I wish I would have thought of before I even tried to take the nuts off the exhaust manifold studs.

He said he would have never even tried to unloosen them nuts. He would have just used his sawzall in the middle of the straight parts of the y-pipe coming down from the manifold to cut the y-pipe on both sides. And then just used two exhaust pipe sleeves and some exhaust clamps when it was time to reassemble.

If I would have thought of that.
It would have cost me a little more money for the sleeves and clamps. But I might have saved money in the long run.
Because I wouldn't have spent all that money on the drill bits.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Well I'm sorry to have to report that,
I didn't go to work today and I'm not going to be working on my truck either.

I'm paying for all the stuff I did yesterday.
I'm in a lot more pain then I usually am.
And my joints are all stiff as hell.

It took me twice as long today to get out of my bed then it normally does.

And that's normally at minimum an hour job.

 

[bobbywalter]

Well I'm sorry to have to report that,
I didn't go to work today and I'm not going to be working on my truck either.

I'm paying for all the stuff I did yesterday.
I'm in a lot more pain then I usually am.
And my joints are all stiff as hell.

It took me twice as long today to get out of my bed then it normally does.

And that's normally at minimum an hour job.

i have that problem. i do excercises based off of tom morrison on u tooobz.


keeps me going.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I have a good update tonight.

I got my truck back together today.
It is now sitting back on the ground on it's tires.

I still need to put transmission fluid in it.

And I got to get a battery to put in it.
1 of my brothers had their battery go bad on them, so I told him he could get the 1 out of my truck and use it.
So that makes it so now I need a battery for my truck.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Well today's update,
I took the battery out of my brother's tow truck and put it into my truck.
( I still have a long way to go to get the tow truck ready to be driveable. )

I also added 4 quarts of transmission fluid into the transmission.

I don't want to overfill it but I think I need to add more what's your guys' suggestion?
It's showing up on the dipstick. But just. And I'm thinking that the transmission might not have been hot enough.

Google says it should take 9.7 quarts.

However there was some left over in the torque converter.
And there's most likely residual in the transmission and some in the transmission cooling radiator as well.

I got 1 quart still. Should I buy some more?

I also saw today that I somehow broke the shifter cable.
I've ordered a new one from Amazon already. It's supposed to get here Saturday.
AutoZone and O'Reilly's both said they didn't have one. By that point I was tired of being put on hold so I didn't call nowhere else.

 

[Curious Hound]

The dipstick will tell you how much to put in. Check with engine running and warm.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I was in park with the truck running.
I don't think it was warm enough to move the temperature gauge however.
I should wait for the temperature gauge to move, right?

 

[sgtsandman]

I was in park with the truck running.
I don't think it was warm enough to move the temperature gauge however.
I should wait for the temperature gauge to move, right?

I belive the correct method to check automatic transmission fluid is when the transmission is at full operating temperature. My 2019 is like that.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

This afternoon when I got done working with my brother Andy I was able to do more with my truck.

I made a mistake right off the bat when I was working on it today however.

The transmission fluid level was reading so low when I checked it yesterday.
So I went ahead and added my last quart plus a little of fluid that was left over in the gallon jug the fluid came in before I even started the truck.

After I added that last quart and a little of fluid I started the truck and let it run.
Once the temperature gauge moved into the normal range I let it run for three songs on the radio and the temperature gauge didn't move.
So I figured it was at running temperature.
I then check the fluid level in the transmission and it was over full.

I let it run for eight more songs at that point and the temperature gauge did not move anymore. So I then checked the fluid level again and it still read over full.

At that point I shut off my truck and let it sit for about 2 hours.

One of my transmission lines has a compression fitting in it about 2 inch's away from the radiator towards the firewall.

So I got a funnel and my gallon jug my transmission fluid came in. I then
opened the compression fitting and let the fluid drain out into the funnel going into the jug.
It wasn't coming out very fast but it was all good, a slow and steady pace.
Once I read a quart in the jug I put the compression fitting back together and stop the draining.

At that point I restarted my truck and let it run for approximately 25 minutes while I was playing with my brother's dog.

At that point I looked at the temperature gauge and it read the same spot it did when I checked the fluid earlier.

I then check the transmission fluid level and it read approximately a half of a quart low or so.
At that point I thought,
All is good and well.
I'm not going to keep adding and taking away fluid, adding and taking away fluid to get it perfect.

So now once my new shifter cable gets here, hopefully on Saturday, I'll be able to put it on. And then I should be able to drive my truck.

Once again I'm back to my normal writing a whole book.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

P.S. to my last post.

I do plan on checking and maybe adding a little more fluid once I get the new shifter cable and can run the transmission through it's gears.