I'm BEFUDDLED!

[Softwireman78]

I have a Frankenstein Ranger. It's a 1986 frame and bed, with an '83 cab (front boot was totaled), and it has a '74 Pinto motor with a 4 speed tranny. I collapsed a lifter one day and the rocker came out and I killed it immediately. I thought I had broken a rod. Pumped the lifter back up and reinstalled it. Ran ok for a little while, then it sat for a couple years. Went out to start it up because I need the old gal now, and it's not running like it was. It has a Holley 350 cfm carb, Headman Headers, and Thrush muffler. It was my daily driver for several years and was always quick, and responsive. About 2 years ago I had to change the power valve so I went ahead and replaced the metering base gasket, and nylon washers. So here's the problem. It doesnt idle now, I have 105 psi on number 1 & 4, and 120 on 3 & 4. Good fire at all the plugs, BUT 2 & 3 are gas soaked! Pulling plug wires off 2 & 3 have no effect, but pulling 1 & 4 do. SO first thought is the float needle isn't seating because you can literally light the dipstick on fire because gas is now in the oil. So I replaced the needle/seat. Lifters are now quietened back down, but I'm so stumped on why 2 and 3 are so gas soaked all the way up the threads if I have good fire to those cylinders. I'm looking to put Frankenstein back on the road like yesterday unfortunately and looking for some input from the more experienced gear heads. Sorry for such a long winded post, but I wanted to paint the most complete picture and try to keep it as short and detailed as possible. Thanks in advance for ANY help or ideers folks.

 

[Rangurr]

Honestly I'm befuddled too..... You're sure you have good spark??? Like really really sure??

 

[Softwireman78]

That's a BIG 10-4! It lit my brother's azz UP! Anymore I almost refuse to pull a plug wire while a motor is running.

Honestly I'm befuddled too..... You're sure you have good spark??? Like really really sure??

 

[Rangurr]

Ahh, I remember the last time I did that... no bueno!

That means that your wires are definitely fine but are the plugs for sure good?

I know this all sounds super basic and you've probably already covered it but it never hurts to double check. I've shocked the piss outta myself with an atv trying to test for spark and it turned out to be a bad plug even though I dismissed it after shocking myself.

 

[Softwireman78]

Funny you mentioned it! I'm gonna change the plugs (Denso Iridiums), wires, and cap. I was working on my cousins Johnson outboard that has E3's in it. Outside the cylinder GREAT fire, inside under load it'd breakdown and would hit a lick for s**t! As of now though outside the cylinder everything fires a nice crisp blue.

 

[Rangurr]

I would give that a shot. At the very least, hurry and swap the two verified good plugs and see how it works.

 

[Mark_88]

Or plop some Bosch +4 plugs in there...I've ran them on my 2.3 since I've owned it because other plugs just didn't seem to work as well (or at all sometimes).

Some people swear by them...others swear at them...but they've worked for me...starts first crank every time...but they won't solve a needle issue as I've also found out...

 

[Rangurr]

I've got Bosch platinums in my 2.3 - they do the job great.
I've also loved E3 plugs in most of my cars throughout the years but I decided to go platinum on the Ranger.

 

[Softwireman78]

Edit accidental double post

 

[Softwireman78]

Did and done last night before I crashed out. Made no diff in 2 & 3 flooding. Oil doesn't seem to be gas contaminated after running it a bit to get the lifters built back up. I've run +4's in other rides through out the years and I liked them. Never had a problem with em. Needle and seat best be seating off now; $20 later! I remember when things were cheaper and built WAY better.

I would give that a shot. At the very least, hurry and swap the two verified good plugs and see how it works.

 

[70roadrunner]

just a thought. you said the frame and box are 86. was it originally fuel injected? I have no experience with the 4-bangers, but know that in 86 the 2.9 was fuel injected. it may be possible the fuel pump is overpressurizing the needle/seat. that year had 2 fuel pumps I believe, one in the tank to push fuel, and one one the frame to make the required pressure for fuel injection. if it has a second pump on the frame, I would bypass it and see what happens. I hope you find the problem soon!

 

[Softwireman78]

My Uncle & mechanical mentor that did the tuning and work on years back thinks maybe the power valve I put in it awhile back could be the problem. I can see if it was off idle and stumbling (like it was when I'd crank it ever so often), but once wound up a little say above 1,250 r's it's quite responsive through out the rest of the throttle. Pull the plugs afterwards again 1 & 4 look normal; 2 & 3 are SOAKED. I'm thinking it's gotta be something relatively simple. If it had bent a valve with the rocker when the lifter collapsed and jumped out it would be evidentiary doing a compression test. Running it at night with light off there is not stray or wandering jumping from the 8mm wires. Distributor cap shows some wear, but no hair line crack(s). 2 & 3 aren't next to each other obviously during the 1, 3, 4, 2 firing order. Basic simple combustion mechanics aren't just that in this case! K&N tweenst a Holley tin provides ample fresh air, changed the mechanical fuel pump from a 2.3 Mustang parts motor I have (thought maybe the diaphragm was leaking gas into the block via the auxiliary shaft), and good fire to each cylinder.

 

[Softwireman78]

Single mechanical pump that runs off the auxiliary shaft. It's a carbed motor out of a '74 Pinto. All the 2.3's are essentially the same with exception of head and intake mani variations.

just a thought. you said the frame and box are 86. was it originally fuel injected? I have no experience with the 4-bangers, but know that in 86 the 2.9 was fuel injected. it may be possible the fuel pump is overpressurizing the needle/seat. that year had 2 fuel pumps I believe, one in the tank to push fuel, and one one the frame to make the required pressure for fuel injection. if it has a second pump on the frame, I would bypass it and see what happens. I hope you find the problem soon!

 

[Softwireman78]

I called Day Motorsports just south of me in Tyler, Texas and explained what was going on. I have a #5 power valve in the metering base that I got from O'Reilly's and he suggested a 3.5-4.5. These folks build 2.3's for circle track and far more experienced than I. Gonna go and get one here directly, and HOPEFULLY that'll fix the issue of flooding 2 & 3. I'll post back later with good news maybe.

 

[Softwireman78]

Haha HA! I got it! I set the needle and seat where I thought I was before I replaced it. Pulled the bowl and metering base as a precautionary measure before I went and got another power valve. Low and behold it was set wrong and the needle wasn't seating thus flooding! Adjusted it right and VIOLA! Busted off and purred the the old gal did before! Thanks for the replies guys it is appreciated!