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Ignition and Fuel 302 Ranger


306deranged

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Messages
62
City
north carolina
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys, its been awhile since Ive been on the forums and im finally starting to get back to my 302 project ranger. I have already picked up a c4, an 8.8 rear end, and this week will be buying a 5.0 HO motor that im planning on doing a carb setup on. My question(s) are 1.) What is the best ignition system to use on a "efi to carb" engine and to save money doing it? Distributor? And can someone provide or write up a wiring diagram so I can get a better picture of how it will be. 2.) Ive already taken out the factory gas tank as I planned on a fuel cell and a lower psi pump for the carb but Ive heard you can just put a regulator on the factory pump and use your old tank as well?? Im a little confused on how to run my fuel system as well and need someone to help me paint a picture of how everything is going to go...return lines?regulators etc. Thanks for everything guys
 
The Davis Unified Ignition system is the easiest and probably the best, but not cheap.
All you need is 1 wire for power and 1 wire for tach.
Like the Chevy HEI system.

Holley makes a "Red" model in-line fuel pump, its made for carbs, 7psi, no regulator required, you would have to remove the in-tank pump and add a pickup tube.
Similar less expensive electric pumps would be available.
I would run the power for an add-on electric pump thru the inertia switch for safety reasons.
 
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What ever distributor you decide make sure the cam gear matches the cam iron or steel. Look at the cam gear on the old dizzy if it has casting marks it is iron if it is machined it is steel. You can probably get a one wire HEI at your local part store for reasonable.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-289-30...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5655d8e659&vxp=mtr
I`m thinking they make a short shaft if you have clearance issues?
 
I'm running an HEI dizzy made for a HO 302. Got it off eBay new for a great price and a lifetime warranty. The sellers name is skipwhite. You can see a picture of it on the first page of my build thread along with other pictures of my swap. I did a efi to carb swap with mine plus did a HO conversion too (didn't have the efi stuff on it but was an efi engine).

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Alright thanks guys, did yall use your stock fuel pumps and bring them down considerably to handle the carb or would u suggest gettings another pump made for low pressure. Also how do you get the truck to start using the factory key ignition
 
I wouldn't, if you remove the high pressure pump and replace with pickup tube then there is no reason to remove the tank again.
Making something work "out of spec" is fun and can be less expensive....at first, lol, but often costs more down the road, or at the side of the road if you get stranded :)

External low pressure in-line pump can be serviced easier if needed.

On this electrical diagram it shows a red/light green wire as 12v with key in RUN and START, it went to the TFI module, that could be used for the DUI/HEI distributor.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagrams_StartIgnition83to882_9.JPG

The fuel pump relay will have 12v with key on, this relay can be by-passed to send the 12v to the inertia switch all the time, then connect the pink/black wire coming out of the inertia switch to the external fuel pump.
 
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Just be sure to remove the OEM in-line resistor that is built into the ignition wiring, or the HEI will not produce the best spark that it can.
 
Yes, test the voltage on the red/light green TFI wire, it should be 12v with key on, it will be less if there is an in-line resistor.
 
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I'm not sure what wire that's feeding my hei dizzy. Told my dad that it needed a constant voltage source during cranking and key on so he says no problem and after a few minutes of being under the hood, he found one. I think it may have been one that he put on the truck years ago when he put an efi engine under the hood, originally had a carb.

As for a fuel pump, I have a Mr. Gasket one that I got from AutoZone. Bolted it right by where the factory high pressure pump was, holes were already in the frame for the 45 degree mining that it needed. Plus used the factory wiring harness to power it (that was adieu put on when the efi conversion was done).

2012-08-11182309.jpg



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That is installed where the frame mounted pump is under the cover ford installed over it correct?? Is that just a regulator?
 
That is installed where the frame mounted pump is under the cover ford installed over it correct?? Is that just a regulator?

You got it. Those are factory holes in the frame that the fuel pump, shown in the picture, is mounted to.

My truck originally didn't come with a FI setup but when my dad put an FI engine in it, the holes for the high pressure pump were already on the frame so I guess Ford already had that planned out 3 years before they made FI engines in RBVs.

Regulator and gauge Is under the hood before the carb..now that you have me thinking I should have put the second fuel filter after the regulator to help reduce pressure on it...not that it's a problem.

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oh ok so that pump in the picture is still a 40 psi pump? Is that just a ruber line run into the stock tank?
 
Mr. Gasket makes an electric 3.5 psi pump, just for carbs. It looks like that may be the one danger has posted in his pic.

EDIT: Linky = http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/mr-..._content=pla&gclid=CKWu3dye9rcCFWNgMgod3UoAUQ

Thanks. Yea after doing a little research looks like the easiest set up is that of what danger did. I have read where you can just put this on the frame and run the original "return" line as the FEAD line. just put one filter before and after pump. Then use the vent line into the air cleaner and any residual fuel vapors will be sucked through the carb when cranked. Basically deleting the stock fead line all together.

Correct me if I am wrong.

Also looks like you can use the Mr. Gasket 12S pump as well. As long as the pressure is between 3.5-8 psi.
 
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The one I have runs at 7psi and I have it regulated to 5.5psi.

Also while you can, don't use the filter for the pump that screws in. Get a fitting that will fit and run an after market filter (metal, plastic, etc...) before the pump that will be easier to change. Also do run a filter somewhere before the carb too.

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