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If you had $2000 what will you do?


I have a nice 4.0, M5OD, and manual 1354, complete with everything needed to run it, and I can throw in a complete gen 2 dash with that harness too.

That would take up only half of your budget. Check my classifieds thread for more details.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Pffft I have almost all parts for my sas and I'm sitting at 650 in parts. If
He's building it for light wheeling he can do it for two grand easy. Not sure why everyone has to spend so much.

Also he said what would I do if
I had that much. It's exactly what
I'm doing now.

Most people who SAS wheel their shit, and if you wheel hard enough for an SAS to be beneficial you need to do it right, build it strong, or it ends up costing you more money later on. If you're doing an SAS just to be one of the cool kids, then you can cut corners and do it alot cheaper.

Pay once, cry once. Like I said, it's all the little shit, it adds up quick.

Lets see, brake lines $100, Gears that's $100, you need an install kit too, that's another $100, if you're gearing the front you probably need to gear the rear too, that's another $100 plus another $100 for another install kit. Carrier breaks, depending on your gear ratio, you're probably going to need new carriers too. That's $50 each. Gear oil, for your fancy new gears, $6 a quart, but you have to change it after about 50 miles on your new gears, so double that. Steering, $200 for tube and rod ends. If you need a drop pitman arm, that's another $50.

If you're going to put a new axle under the truck, may as well rebuild it. Ball joints, you need 4 of those at $40 a pop. Wheel bearings, inners and outers, Timken's are $50 a piece. Calipers, you need two of those, $50 each. Hubs, you're spending all this money on this axle, may as well put some good hubs on it. I mean, what's another $100, right?

An SAS seems kind of pointless if you're not going to install atleast one lock, that's $600-$200 depending on the locker. Or you could weld up the spiders, but that kind of kills the on road driveabliity.

With your new gears and lockers you're going to be snapping shafts left and right, may as well upgrade to some ubber pimpy chromoly shafts. That's $400-$600.

Shocks, decent shocks are $100 a corner, good ones are $200 a corner.

Tires, cheap ones off of Craigslist $400

-Jester
 
2 grand on a B2, lets see. here's what I did (don't know how much it costs me yet tho).

93 explorer donor-- $300
gears & install kits (G2 4.56's, master installs, both axles)-- $550
Aussie locker(front and rear)-- $400
Other for axle swaps (flex joints, lube locker, xj coils, etc)-- $150
Superrunner steering (used)-- $250
Bilstein 5150's (used)-- $140
Wheels (procomp 8089's 16x8, on sale!)-- $400
Tires (Dynapro at's used, 285/75/16's)-- $200
Winch (I WON IT!)-- FREE
Bumper (custom made)-- $200ish

just that stuff adds up to a grand total of $2590ish


that's not to mention all the little crap that'll nickle and dime you to death.. gaskets, plugs/wires, brakes, fluids, nuts/bolts, frustration, labor; so on.. so forth.

my prices don't even include the "in-between" stages of my build. the body lift , the RC 4" lift, the old tires.
Plus all my audio equipment I still use.


so yeah, 2 grand will disappear quick if you start doing axle work and motor swaps.



Jester is right(except I wanna know where he's getting gears for $100 a set).. it adds up, but do it right the first time. that's why I dropped the money on gears, steering, shocks and all now... even tho I bought a lot of used stuff I cam across.
 
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I was being real conservative on my estimates. But dealer pricing from Randy's R&P was a little less then $150 a set for my gears.

-Jester
 
Yeah, I guess you're right. But i'd still invest the 2k into the project for either or both of those. I would spend it on the axle swap, and I might not finish, but I'd be a hell of a lot closer than I was before :)
 
just be prepared for the nickle and dime crap... no matter how much you plan, you will miss a few items... and they will add up!
 
Nuts and bolts add up. VERY quick. As do brake lines, hoses, and fluid. Dont forget the cost of paint, cutoff wheels, wire wheels, grinding wheels, welding materials, drill bits, etc.
 
What will you do to this 1987 ford bronco II? I need ideas

If you want it to LOOK better........(A) go with bigger tires/lift to accomodate tires.....

If you want it to perform better....(B) swap to a bigger engine.....

OR.......do.........(A) & (B)..................for the time being...........

but i drive a street-truck...what do i know ;missingteeth;
 
Lets see, brake lines $100, Gears that's $100, you need an install kit too, that's another $100, if you're gearing the front you probably need to gear the rear too, that's another $100 plus another $100 for another install kit. Carrier breaks, depending on your gear ratio, you're probably going to need new carriers too. That's $50 each. Gear oil, for your fancy new gears, $6 a quart, but you have to change it after about 50 miles on your new gears, so double that. Steering, $200 for tube and rod ends. If you need a drop pitman arm, that's another $50.

If you're going to put a new axle under the truck, may as well rebuild it. Ball joints, you need 4 of those at $40 a pop. Wheel bearings, inners and outers, Timken's are $50 a piece. Calipers, you need two of those, $50 each. Hubs, you're spending all this money on this axle, may as well put some good hubs on it. I mean, what's another $100, right?

Your prices are way off, $100 for brake lines? $160 for ball joints/$200 wheel bearings/$100 calipers? I have less than $150 into all of that and I did not buy cheapo parts (and none of it has broken over the last 3 years that my SAS has been done either.)

You can get insanely good deals just talking around and playing the waiting game, I got a free disc brake 8.8 with 4.10s and a complete HP Dana 44 with 4.10s for $50. Factory steering parts can be made to work, $50 Explorer leaf springs, $50 2" block kit, $50 Belltech shackle kit, $200 worth of coil spring parts, $200 worth of shocks and probably $500 for driveline length changes, bushings, bearings, and other supplies.

Right there you are sitting with $1100 out of pocket and a rig that is useful on 33's.

That said I do NOT have $1100 into my D44 and 8.8 swap, I did everything myself and got insanely good deals on a lot of stuff and spent way less than that $1100 figure.

Back to the original question, what would I do with $2000? Hard to say, probably wouldn't spend it on my truck, but if I absolutely had to spend it on your B2, I'd SAS it.
 
not everyone can walk into deals like that either.


plus there is a lot of small stuff you didn't include in your $1100, every build is different. some people have to buy bolts/nuts where I can get them at the shop... some people don't have decent junkyards around that they can find the stuff they need, heck... some people don't know how to cross reference parts numbers to really know how to junkyard build stuff. so of course, their builds costs more.
 
If Obongo is still President in November! Buy a s__t load of ammo!!
 
I would catch up all the maintanence like tranny service, fluids, tune up etc, then I would do a 2" body lift, it makes everything easier. Then I would get a lift I would be happy with, 4" rough country that brinker suggested or better yet a 4" w extended length radius arms and tires. You would have so much fun with it you would be hooked for life like some of us.
 
New tires on the B2, repair the rust issues, and have it painted.
 
I would find an exploder to swap drive trains with. I'm seriously thinking about that right now. I found an A4ld in a junkyard that wants 400. I can pull one for 100$ if I can find one. I could find an exploder for 500 and get a trans and an engine. I may sale the axles if I find a sploder. I don't plan on serious 4x action in the new BII. More daily driving with the occassional off road trip.
 

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