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Idle all over the place and acceleration hesitation


Joined
Jan 7, 2025
Messages
13
City
Los Angeles
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Automatic
Hey ya’all looking for some guidance on a problem I’m having with my 87 ford ranger v6 2.9. Few weeks back car stalled out at a stop sign and wouldn’t start back up. Replaced the ICM and got it back running but the idle was terrible after this and would stall out after driving and coming to a stop thankfully this time it would start up, check pump and my Inline fuel pump positive wire was disconnected and when re wired found it was leaking from that positive connection. Replaced that and did a pressure test and everything checked out according to the specs. Did a vacuum leak test and found no leak in vacuum lines. Right now it starts up fine but idle is all over the place and when driving Rpms will drop to 0 and then surge back up. I Have read a lot of other helpful posts of similar problems and have gone ahead and replaced the following :

new inline fuel pump, fuel pump filter, idle air control, map sensor, fuel pump relay, pcv and breather along with grommets, air filter, spark plugs, ignition coil, EGR valve, distributor cap and rotor, TPS. *No after market pieces almost all were motorcraft parts.

With all that being said battery is good and new map sensor is giving the right voltage but the idle is still all over the place and continues to stall out sometimes. I unhooked air intake to throttle body and almost sounds like it’s getting to much air maybe. Currently while driving I gotta throw it in neutral and give it some gas when stopped so it doesn’t stall out. Drove it today and even at 50-60 mph the rpms would drop all the way down to zero and I wouldn’t be able to accelerate until it jumped back up. One other thing I didn’t notice is that someone cut the wires to the inertia switch pigtail and just bypassed it by butt splicing the wires together not sure if this would cause a problem or not but I’m at a point where I’m not really sure what is happening, maybe a valve is stuck open or actual distributor is bad. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Phots of gauges while driving, inertia switch and pressure test attached.
 

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Update on it, was just checking all the wires to see if there was any bad connections or other wire issues and a buddy of mine say to just tap the eec relay and so I did while engine was parked and idling and it almost died and then Idle jumped and was running all crazy. Idle came back down to normal and tapped it again and did the same thing so I’m wondering if the eec relay is also bad so got that on order and hopefully will solve this headache
 
Update on it, was just checking all the wires to see if there was any bad connections or other wire issues and a buddy of mine say to just tap the eec relay and so I did while engine was parked and idling and it almost died and then Idle jumped and was running all crazy. Idle came back down to normal and tapped it again and did the same thing so I’m wondering if the eec relay is also bad so got that on order and hopefully will solve this headache
When you change the relay, look carefully at the wiring plug where it plugs into also.
 
thanks, you can see some exposed wire but the connection to the pigtail feels like it tight
Might replace that as well while I’m at it just to be sure
 

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