I need some help, mechanic cant tell what the problem is

[riss6270]

No stock wheels and tires. I am going to have to bite the bullet and drop it off to a repair shop tomorrow. The only thing with this place is they charge 120 regardless. I like to fix things my self but its going to drive me crazy not knowing what it is. I do have to say I really haven't spend much in the repairs I've done so far. I think I'm only up to 310 with 2 rotors breaks one hub assembly one axle assembly and u joints. Not bad when I was dropping 500 on a turbo for my pulling trucks. Glad I sold them. They were expensive to work on.

 

[riss6270]

I'll be sure to let you know what I find out. It will probably be something simple and I'm going to kick myself in the a$$ because I simply overlooked the small things first.

 

[backwoods]

Only does it when warmed up. You hear it during deceleration. Does it happen with the clutch in? Do you have an l/s rear end?

 

[riss6270]

Backwoods.... It does it with or without the clutch in gear. The outside air temp has to be above 75 ish. It's in the 50 s in the morning and doesn't make the noise going to work but when I leave work it starts making the noise when I'm about 4 miles in my drive. I went out this morning and ran it in 4 wd on a 6 mile straight I'm going to see if that has anything to do with it. Maybe the 4 wd needed to get used.

 

[martin]

From the description of the sound, it might be the chain in the t/case.

 

[PanamaExpat]

T Case?? HMMM could just be that. The BW in my Ssangyong looks identical to the one in my B4000. It has had a slow leak for years. When I notice it start to rattle a bit I crawl under it and squirt about half a bottle of ATF in it and it quiets down for another 6 or so months. But you notice it more at low speeds with the windows down. Usually the loudest just as you slack off the throttle. Try driving through a tunnel or along a wall and listen for it (window down). Anyhow you should check the fluid level in it as if they run dry it can be a complete disaster. Mine has been rattling for about 7 years now and still works fine in 4X4 so I guess a sloppy chain isn't the end of the world.

 

[rangergi]

Ok I haven't read this whole argument. So I'm sorry if it has already been said, and I don't know much about 4wd suspension, but make sure everything's tight. The sway bar link was loose on my friends ranger, tightened it up, hasn't made a clunking noise since.
Again, sorry if this has already been sugested

 

[riss6270]

So went to another shop today. Long story short he said it waste tires. Anyhow. Got home and jacked up the front and back and put it in four wheel drive. The back tires spun and the front passenger side spun but the driver side didn't where the noise is coming from. Actually it did spin the opposite way. I don't know if that changes anything. Should all four spin in 4 wheel drive when all tires are off the ground?

 

[adsm08]

Well, the front end is probably open. In any differential the pinion spins twice as fast as the spiders. In an open diff with wheels off the ground this can look like anything from both wheels spinning in the same direction as the same speed, to one spinning and one sitting still or barely moving. Usually the front axle will have one wheel sit still. I can't remember ever seeing one spin backwards while driven by the engine, but if you would just grab the drive shaft and spin it by hand that would be completely normal on and open diff.

 

[riss6270]

So what are the chances of an axel assembly from napa (reman) already ware out again? Just picked it up from another mechanic this makes 3 and he says it really sounds like the cv joints.

 

[adsm08]

Where are you? I think I'm starting to want to look at this one in person if I can. I like a challenge.

 

[riss6270]

Adsm........ I'm close to emmitsburg md not far from the pa line rt 15

 

[westonmt]

This may be something you've already checked but you said it went away for 5-6 days after you did some front end work... I had recently replaced all my bearing assemblys, t-rods, upper/lower ball joins, and did a brake/rotor change over the course of several weeks. I was getting a clunk on when I was de-accelerating and when I hit the brakes when backing up after a few days. I started to get a rattle on bumps as well. Turned out one of the bolts holding on my caliper was losing torque and slowly backing out causing my caliper to shift and create a noise. Maybe an overly simple look at your problem but it's quick to check...

 

[bruker]

Could it be a dry slip-yoke? It's easy enough to take it apart and lube it up.

 

[backwoods]

Jack it up, have someone hit the gas, then walk around the vehicle till you locate the noise. Start turning the wheel back and forth, go through a couple gears. Honestly, still could be anything. Outside temperature should have little affect if it is motor/transmission. Once the vehicle is warmed up, most items are hotter than 75. Unless your drives have just been too short.

If that's the case, take it for a long drive right before you jack it up. I'm guessing most mechanics are only taking it around the block and not long enough to warm it up and stress the item making noises.

As far as the wheel turning backwards, that happens sometimes when the vehicle is vibrating and slightly uneven jacked up. Could be pointing to a bad u-joint, cv joint or even something in the rear end.

I had an ls go bad and cause awful vibration and noise that seemed to come from the front.