hub ?

[Bug]

Hello and thankyou for letting me becoming a Member...

I have a 85 Ford Ranger V6 2.8, To Lock the Hubs, I have to get Out and Lock the Hubs....

Is there a Kit that I can get and Install so I can lock it from Inside.

My Buddy Had a 98 F-150 that had auto Locking and Installed a Pull Handle in the cab..

thanks

Edit: I posted this in the Wrong Thread.????? Its was going in the Transfer Cases & Locking Hubs.

Sorry

 

[4x4junkie]

I'll move it for you

Your buddy's '98 has what's called a Central Axle Disconnect (CAD), which is a single engagement unit on the passengerside tube of the front axlehousing.
Your Ranger has separate mechanical locking hubs at each wheel spindle, there would be no practical way to implement a manually-engaged system from inside. The most you could do is put automatic locking hubs on there, although these are not known for their reliability, I would just stick with what you have now.

You can leave the hubs locked, but the transfercase in 2WD if you don't wish to get out to lock it in each time. The only penalty is about a ½ MPG loss (people commonly leave the hubs locked in all winter, and just shift the t-case in & out of 4WD as they need it).

Welcome to the forum

 

[Hahnsb2]

I'll move it for you

Your buddy's '98 has what's called a Central Axle Disconnect (CAD), which is a single engagement unit on the passengerside tube of the front axlehousing.
Your Ranger has separate mechanical locking hubs at each wheel spindle, there would be no practical way to implement a manually-engaged system from inside. The most you could do is put automatic locking hubs on there, although these are not known for their reliability, I would just stick with what you have now.

You can leave the hubs locked, but the transfercase in 2WD if you don't wish to get out to lock it in each time. The only penalty is about a ½ MPG loss (people commonly leave the hubs locked in all winter, and just shift the t-case in & out of 4WD as they need it).

Welcome to the forum

What he said. The last thing you want is RBV auto hubs, weak and highly unreliable. Stick with manuals and leave them locked in if it bothers you that much.

 

[bobbywalter]

though leaving them locked has proven maintenance intensive for myself. the inner spindles take a beating and it rags shit to no end.....in the rust belt anyway. lock the hubs with the t case in 2 hi and drive it, if it dont vibrate too bad then your good, if its bad see what it wants to be good, joints/slip...ect...

 

[AllanD]

Except for a few times when I knew I wanted to make longer highway runs
my hubs have been locked since early January.

 

[Bug]

OK thanks for all the Info,

So I can Lock all the time and will not Hurt it? And what about Run time If I Do Like unlock after ever 200 Miles and unlock for the next 100 EtC? And what would be the Max Speed too.

P.S. Its Is Gear'ed SOOO Low in 2-High and 4-High, you Hit the Gas....and it Move Slooowww...(LOL), But in 4-low it move ok.....

 

[gotmudd]

though leaving them locked has proven maintenance intensive for myself. the inner spindles take a beating and it rags shit to no end.....in the rust belt anyway. lock the hubs with the t case in 2 hi and drive it, if it dont vibrate too bad then your good, if its bad see what it wants to be good, joints/slip...ect...

where i grew up if you didn't have 4 wheel drive in the winter, which could be 9 months out of the year you were SOL as to getting around. we left ours locked all the time, as long as your u-joints are good and your slip doesn't have any slop you'll be fine. as for "taking a beating", not as bad as when the transfer case is locked in and you're out wheeling. besides on manual hubs it's recommended to lock them at least once a month to lubricate them and keep them from getting siezed

 

[Bug]

where i grew up if you didn't have 4 wheel drive in the winter, which could be 9 months out of the year you were SOL as to getting around. we left ours locked all the time, as long as your u-joints are good and your slip doesn't have any slop you'll be fine. as for "taking a beating", not as bad as when the transfer case is locked in and you're out wheeling. besides on manual hubs it's recommended to lock them at least once a month to lubricate them and keep them from getting siezed

that what I was told. He in GA, 4X4 is only for fun (I Think).

But I wsa asking because If I got Mudding and (I KNOW I WILL) I dont want to get out and get my Feet muddy( Realy I'm lazy LOL) to Lock and unlock.

I Think I have both wheels turning at the same time( Locking Pin, if that what it called). Might be wrong.

 

[gotmudd]

OK thanks for all the Info,

So I can Lock all the time and will not Hurt it? And what about Run time If I Do Like unlock after ever 200 Miles and unlock for the next 100 EtC? And what would be the Max Speed too.

P.S. Its Is Gear'ed SOOO Low in 2-High and 4-High, you Hit the Gas....and it Move Slooowww...(LOL), But in 4-low it move ok.....

like i said if your stuff is in good shape wouldn't even worry about unlocking, as for speed, whatever is comfortable. i run my fulsize F250 up to 70mph and have had no problems in the 3 years i owned it.with or without my hubs locked the only thing on mine that rattles is the shift lever[needs new bushing]

 

[Hahnsb2]

My front axle starts to vibrate around 60MPH with the hubs locked in, your results may vary

 

[Jspafford]

My front axle starts to vibrate around 60MPH with the hubs locked in, your results may vary

I get a vibration at highway speeds too, but it is not enough to worry about, just enough to notice.