• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Hub Centric Rings


I believe I have. This issue never occurred until these new wheels/tires. The vibration is actually everywhere. LOL It shakes the steering wheel, the cab has vibration, and it’s worse the faster you drive. When I went for the rebalance after the initial mount and balance, all the wheels where out of balance. The re balance made it better. But it’s still there. I even personally checked the wheels to make sure they were on the stud tight without play. They did rush it yesterday, kinda curious if they missed something. Did all four tires in 30min.
 
That definitely makes me question the tire shop lol.

I've run lug centric steel rims on tons of vehicles over the years and never had an issue. The steel Cragar wheels on my mustang don't come close to fitting the hub but they don't shake, shimmie, or vibrate at all.
 
Like I said, never had an issue with the shop till now. You don’t need hub centric rings by chance? LOL They’re 83.8 OD 70.5 ID.
 
Took a picture of the lugs that I used and the ones I took off and how the wheel fits on a stud. They all look good.
 

Attachments

  • D9CE5312-914A-4106-9B72-E6778B374456.jpeg
    D9CE5312-914A-4106-9B72-E6778B374456.jpeg
    100.3 KB · Views: 131
  • B3FA1D2F-193A-49EF-BC43-24CE6D1F80BA.jpeg
    B3FA1D2F-193A-49EF-BC43-24CE6D1F80BA.jpeg
    96.8 KB · Views: 127
  • 88619C4F-10FD-45C9-AECC-688A8A8B1CB4.jpeg
    88619C4F-10FD-45C9-AECC-688A8A8B1CB4.jpeg
    113.8 KB · Views: 136
The ones on the right are not for steel rims. Actually they both look wrong to me. Steel rims are straight 60 degree conical lugs, the ones on the left look like "ball" flare nuts, the ones on the right are aluminum rim nuts for sure. An expert may chime in here but I don't think either are appropriate for your wheels. My eyesight sucks...

Steel rims use conical not spherical... The difference is barely noticeable but important.
 
Last edited:
Now I’m curious if the lugs that came with the wheels are wrong as well. The ones on the left came with the 15 inch wheels. The ones on the right were on my aluminum 14s, which I have on now and they fit well in the seat. The wheels do have a cone like groove where lugs go instead of rounded. I’ll check them again though. Thanks for the picture!
- insert tire expert here -
 
You say those lugs came with the wheels. Did you buy these used? It may be the previous owner didn't understand and had things mismatched. Might be wise to go buy some new lugs.
 
@DangerKnödle would you humour me and take a picture of the backside of your rim - something doesn't look right to me. (It might just be its been a long day...)
 
@DangerKnödle would you humour me and take a picture of the backside of your rim - something doesn't look right to me. (It might just be its been a long day...)
Picture of the back, I have the code on the back of the wheel it’s 15x7 LD Wide 7J Dot CTW 09 27 2011. I can get a picture tomorrow AM.
 
You say those lugs came with the wheels. Did you buy these used? It may be the previous owner didn't understand and had things mismatched. Might be wise to go buy some new lugs.
I took them off a 92 Ford Ranger that looked to be an STX. Below is a Bad picture, but the wheels on the original truck.
62731
 
I took them off a 92 Ford Ranger that looked to be an STX. Below is a Bad picture, but the wheels on the original truck.
View attachment 62731
That answers the question. They are used. The original owner may not have known they were wrong and may have been experiencing the same issues you are having.
 
I agree. I’m going to take it to a different tire shop today and see what they say. I’ll ask about the lugs as well.

I appreciate everyones help so far!
 
If the nuts on the right in his photo are 60 degree taper (which they look like to me) they will work fine on those wheels, even if they don't look the best. To reiterate what was said earlier, when you install the wheel, you need to run all the nuts on finger tight and rotate the wheel around a bit to make sure you really get the nuts centered in the taper. The guys at the tire shop will not do this, they will just ram the nuts on there with the air gun (to a torque reading that is too high in most cases) so the wheel is usually not exactly centered. That will be enough to cause a vibration in most cases.

So, I would loosen all the lug nuts, jack up one wheel at a time and carefully run the nuts back on snug as I described. Then torque to the correct value. Then see what happens.

btw, I have had tires that would not stay balanced from one week to the next, so there is the possibility of tire issues as well.
 
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to try this as well. I’m taking it to a shop Sunday that’ll do the road force balancing. They agree that there’s an issue with the initial balancing.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top