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how too


schroader

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
196
Age
43
City
ky
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Manual
how do I check and see if my tie rods are shoot? other than that what could be wrong with mt steering, it has all kinds of play in it. I think the ball joints are fine.
 
The 94 I had had lots of play in the steering box, I adjusted it and it made a world of difference.
John
 
have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look underneath, first look at the pitman arm, if its moving with steering wheel your box is usually fine, next look at the linkage, usually you will see where the movement stops, and the play begins, tie rods and drag links go bad a lot, you can usually get them at a parts store for about $20each but the box is also a common problem. my 86 ranger had about 8inches of play in the steering wheel, touched the tie rod and it fell apart, very dangerous if not fixed
 
Last edited:
have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you look underneath, first look at the pitman arm, if its moving with steering wheel your box is usually fine, next look at the linkage, usually you will see where the movement stops, and the play begins, tie rods and drag links go bad a lot, you can usually get them at a parts store for about $20each but the box is also a common problem. my 86 ranger had about 8inches of play in the steering wheel, touched the tie rod and it fell apart, very dangerous if not fixed

where are you getting your parts? i want to shop there!

the steering box is a possibility but i dont think its all that common.
 
If you look down below your ps pump you will see a big nut with a flat slot in the center of the stud. Just loosen the nut and adjust the stud with a flat screwdriver. Make sure you don't over tighten it or it will be hard to turn your wheel and it won't want to recenter. Lock the locknut back down and your good to go. I adjusted mine about 3 times before I was satisfied with it.
John
 
Virtually everyone who does this adjustment by feel dramatically overtightens it. The right way is with an inch-lb torque wrench; there is a preload spec (I believe 20 in-lbs higher on center than well off center). It's going to wear quickly and MAY break.

IMO, really, really not worth it. It doesn't work anyway since the preload adjustment assumes teeth retain their shape, but they don't.

Don't TOUCH that adjustment. Determine where the slop is first, and then if it's in your steering box, replace the box.
 
Virtually everyone who does this adjustment by feel dramatically overtightens it. The right way is with an inch-lb torque wrench; there is a preload spec (I believe 20 in-lbs higher on center than well off center). It's going to wear quickly and MAY break.

IMO, really, really not worth it. It doesn't work anyway since the preload adjustment assumes teeth retain their shape, but they don't.

Don't TOUCH that adjustment. Determine where the slop is first, and then if it's in your steering box, replace the box.

Agreed... No sense in messing with the adjustment. I've seen one fail because it was 'adjusted' too tightly and gernaded. Almost like installing gears without adjusting them correctly.

You can swap out the box in a couple hours. Almost any ford truck or van uses the same box with a different pitman arm. They can be had from about any junkyard. Shop around to save some money.
 

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