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how to swap passenger side axle beam?


mazdamama

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
285
Age
35
City
reno/sparks Nevada
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
im wondering if anyone knows what year vehicles i can pull a passenger side axle beam from at the junkyard. reason is, my passenger side beam has exploded bearings, hub, spindle, oil seal and balljoints, so instead of replacing individual components i would like to just swap an axle from the junkyard. it is a d35 off of a 1994 Mazda B400 with the 4.0 liter and its single cab, but my pick in pull usually has more explorers and bronco IIs than rangers.
 
'91-94 4x4 explorer is a sure thing, and '91-97 ranger 4x4's with a 4.0 are a sure thing... that is unless it has 4 wheel ABS
 
yeah rear abs is the most common, some had front abs too, I think that was mostly in '97 though
 
'91-94 4x4 explorer is a sure thing, and '91-97 ranger 4x4's with a 4.0 are a sure thing... that is unless it has 4 wheel ABS
Doesn't matter if it's a 4.0 or not, the beams are the same. I thought only the spindles were different as far as the ABS goes.
 
'90-'94 will be the same as yours. '95-'97 has different brakes & knuckles.
 
Doing it the way you want to do it is false economy.

It's easier to pull the shaft

Besides, you don't know what might be hiding inside
the axle you get used...

Do remember that if a vehicle is in a junkyard it's there for a reason.

If you get another axle check the upper slot in the knuckle
where the tab for the inner brake pad goes.

AD
 
hey allanD if your still watching this thread, just wondering what i should be looking for in the slot on the knuckle, am i looking for broken spots, or am i looking to make sure the parts will be compatable if i try to switch them.
 
your still going to end up removing the axle shaft to bolt everything up. getting the axle shaft and the slip yoke to slide toghter is going to be a pain the ass.

just grab the knuckle out. but chances of good ball joints and bearings is going to be slim out of a wrecker. Same with the pivot bushing if you got the whole beam.

3 diffrent tyeps of knuckles out there,bascilly comes down to what brake calipur mounting, if the truck/explorer has 4 wheel ABS or not.

slide pin and no ABS

slide pin with ABS

slide pin has single pistion cal's

bolt on dual piston cal's 95-97 ranger with abs.

here is a pic of the slide pin type. these will be found on the 90-94 D-35 ranger and 91-94 explorer.The can come with and with out ABS.
08-25-08_1300.jpg

08-25-08_1258.jpg


the slide pins
08-25-08_1301.jpg



If you happen to run across one with auto hubs, rember the little pin that locks the bearing nuts on the auto must be removed before the nut will losen.
08-25-08_1256.jpg


............

If you want step by step pics on how to take everything apart down to the knuckle. I have step by step pics on my photbucket I can post up if it will help you.

the reason I can think of to look up wear the brake pad mounts in the inner ear of the knuckle on the slid pin type, is to inspect it for wear and cracks.
Some people lose or dont put back in the anti rattle slping clip on the brake pad and it can do a nummber on the ear of the knuckle. Also if your in the rust belt that area may really take a "weathering"..
 
thanks, yeah i allready pulled the axle beam and shaft with the knuckles, turns out most of it will be used as spairs, after replacing the wheel bearings, sanding down the spindle, and throwing the manual locking hub back on, the truck is driving fine. allthough i did take an explorer non abs single piston caliper and put it on my truck, but i was worried that it may not work right, because it had different numbers on it than my ranger did, and it fit a little differently, but i figured this might have been because it hadnt been broken in to my vehicle yet. now, it stops fine but it makes a noticeable clunk when i first apply the brakes.
 
The square "notch" in the steering knuckle that locates the inner pad.

Look at the UPPER surface.

The end of the pad tends to "hammer" the knuckle because it's a thrust
surface, because there's clean metal from each contact the metal rusts
and it slowly errodes away, and since that is a cast part of the knuckle
you can't really do anything about it except find an unbuggered knuckle.

It's one of the reasons I switched to the later beams and knuckles and the
two piston brakes, because if something goes wrong with the caliper bracket
you can remove and replace it.

AD
 

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