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How To: Hanger Flip on a 97


97LowRanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
59
City
Irving Tx
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
Its pretty simple i had a 3/4 drop on my 97 regular cab, this is the way i did it so here it is
I removed the bed to make it easier also had to paint my c notch
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Started by removing the hanger and getting them out of the way then started to grind the rivets flat then drilled the center out
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they are not perfect round so even if you drill the center they will not pop out easily.

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Then the chisel....
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More grinding this rivets are not so easy...
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Next i did the other side flipped them and installed the grade 8 bolts and install everything back on
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I also installed my front springs and shocks, i unfortunately did not get any pictures of that but its really simple. so the truck is ready all it needs is an alignment hopefully i get it tomorrow since i need it to get to work! Here is how it currently is.
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It looks like you should move the shackle mount back a couple inches. Your spring eye will run out of movement very quickly as is and will bind. The shackle and spring should be at 90 degrees when at rest.

Richard
 
It looks like you should move the shackle mount back a couple inches. Your spring eye will run out of movement very quickly as is and will bind. The shackle and spring should be at 90 degrees when at rest.

Richard

So drill out more holes!!!?? i need help then all the posts ive seen only say to flip it im no expert! this is my daily driver i will need it tomorrow please help if anything is wrong thaks! :icon_idea:
 
You will be fine for a bit, just be aware that is not the best it can be and don't go doing jumps.

sent while sitting on the throne
 
Bed hitting?

By doing this, doesn't your bed of your truck hit the top of the shackle? How much drop did you get on the back? One person said it only drop it 2". So the springs are still on top of the axle?
 
@97lowranger;
I'm no expert either. I've done a lot of research and did the flip on my race ranger. I ended up moving the shackle hanger back ~ 2" for my setup using chevy 63" springs. It looks like you should do the same but I'm not there to measure things.
[1] Take a tape and measure from the center of the front spring eye bolt along the curve of the spring to the shackle end spring eye bolt center.
[2] With the spring disconnected from the shackle, the shackle laying towards the rear as far as it can, measure from the front spring eye bolt center in a straight line to the shackle spring bolt center.
[3] The second measurement should be equal or less than the first. If longer then there will be spring bind when the suspension is compressed enough.
[4] If needed, move the shackle mount back enough to get the needed measurement.

Warning; I thought I could get more droop by tilting the shackle mount counter clockwise. Be aware that if you go too far then the spring can cam lock on itself. This is something that you probably don't need to know, I put it in for those trying to get the most suspension droop possible.

@Dads Toy;

You will get ~1/2 of shackle length. Because the axle is 1/2 way between the front spring pivot point and the shackle, you get 1/2 of the shackle length in movement at the axle. I don't have a bed in my truck but have read that the shackle can get into that space, especially with a longer shackle.
 
By doing this, doesn't your bed of your truck hit the top of the shackle? How much drop did you get on the back? One person said it only drop it 2". So the springs are still on top of the axle?

The axle position doesn't matter. The shackle flip drops the rear approximately 2 inches. The stock flipped shackle doesn't hit the bottom of the bed, but it is close. If you were to do the same procedure using a longer "lift shackle" it would drop the truck more than 2 inches, but you'd need to cut the bed floor.
 
So drill out more holes!!!?? i need help then all the posts ive seen only say to flip it im no expert! this is my daily driver i will need it tomorrow please help if anything is wrong thaks! :icon_idea:

It's fine as-is. Save yourself the time and effort. The range of motion for the spring eye may be reduced, but it shouldn't be an issue in a lowered street truck. If you were hauling heavy things, or doing jumps as Always Floored mentioned, then more spring travel would be needed, but I doubt that's in your plans when you're dropped 7 inches. Your axle would probably bottom out on the notch before the shackle/spring came into contact with each other. Tons of guys have done the shackle flip without any issues. Just enjoy the new lower height, it looks good!
 
^^^ good to know. Thanks.

sent while sitting on the throne
 
It's fine as-is. Save yourself the time and effort. The range of motion for the spring eye may be reduced, but it shouldn't be an issue in a lowered street truck. If you were hauling heavy things, or doing jumps as Always Floored mentioned, then more spring travel would be needed, but I doubt that's in your plans when you're dropped 7 inches. Your axle would probably bottom out on the notch before the shackle/spring came into contact with each other. Tons of guys have done the shackle flip without any issues. Just enjoy the new lower height, it looks good!

You guys know more than me! here's a problem i bought 4 degree camber bushings and did the alignment the guy (who is really good) took 2:30 hrs to do it, i did my pinion seal the rest of the day so i drove the truck maybe 20-30 miles max and my RF is cambered in ive searched and everyone says 4 degree well my guy says i should buy 3 degree and stick to what i get any help???? i need my truck asap!
 
That is past my knowledge. Hopefully someone else has an answer for you.
Good luck,

Richard

sent while sitting on the throne
 
I'm not an ibeam expert, but generally, the lower you go, the more camber adjustment you need. If he can't get it aligned with a 4 degree eccentric, then he'd probably have more difficulty with a 3 degree piece. You're at the point now, where it may never be perfectly aligneable (every truck and every alignment guy is just a bit different here), but a decent tech should be able to get it pretty close.
 
I'm not an ibeam expert, but generally, the lower you go, the more camber adjustment you need. If he can't get it aligned with a 4 degree eccentric, then he'd probably have more difficulty with a 3 degree piece. You're at the point now, where it may never be perfectly aligneable (every truck and every alignment guy is just a bit different here), but a decent tech should be able to get it pretty close.

he did align it right the problem is the eccentric turned within the i beam bore, and then camber went negative so in other words the beam is not getting tight enough to hold the eccentric any help?? has it happened to anyone? it didn't before with a 3 degree but im told they are all the same diameter
 
Thanks

The axle position doesn't matter. The shackle flip drops the rear approximately 2 inches. The stock flipped shackle doesn't hit the bottom of the bed, but it is close. If you were to do the same procedure using a longer "lift shackle" it would drop the truck more than 2 inches, but you'd need to cut the bed floor.

Thanks for the info. Is it pretty hard to get the spring back up into the shackle>Any tricks to make this easy?
 

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