how to find my speaker wires again (lol)

[baxtej44]

bump..

 

[Psychopete]

bump..

I starting replying this morning, but I couldn't find some pictures of the hole cutter I used. I am working today from home on a project that's due tomorrow and am about done. I'll tell you what tools and how I made them once I can get away from this damn computer!

Pete

 

[baxtej44]

I starting replying this morning, but I couldn't find some pictures of the hole cutter I used. I am working today from home on a project that's due tomorrow and am about done. I'll tell you what tools and how I made them once I can get away from this damn computer!

Pete

okay man thanks....



but i think basically what you did, you got a piece of sheet metal or something of the sort, cut out the hole for the speaker, drilled the speaker into the metal, and drill the metal into the stock holes?


and then i would need some sort of custom grills though i'm thinking.

 

[Psychopete]

...

I cut out the hole first. I have a large piece of sheet metal that I nibble at that I used for my dash panel. This is what I used for cutting the round hole:

Drill attaches to the top shaft, the center stays stationary in a pre-drilled hole, while the cutter drills the metal. You physically twist the whole thing with the drill attached to cut the round hole. I paid $20 that at Harbor Freight and will save you money in trying other things. Hole saws didn't work for shit. Nor did some other hole cutters that I wasted my time and money on.

Comes in handy for all sorts of fun stuff:

All my measurements are primarily done with a combination square. They are very handy.

I figured out a good place to put the speaker first, measure out from the square edge, then made the first cut with the hole cutter. When using the hole cutter, place the metal you're cutting on a old book (like a phone book) or study box. I made the plate too big by measuring the maximum length and width of the speaker provision. Basically ended up with a square piece of metal with a hole in it. <- Cut with tin snips.

Found this:

Next I placed the metal against the "speaker provision" and traced an outline with a sharpy on to the metal and cut with tin snips so that it could mated up against the mounting tabs.

Once I was happy with the fitment inside and on top of the tabs, I marked the holes to be drilled with a sharpy - through the OEM mounting holes (no measuring). I used a drill that was the same size as what was drilled into the mount tabs. Always use a center punch to mark exactly where the hole should be drilled for optimal accuracy.

Then I stuck the speaker in and marked the mounting holes for that, but watch out for interference with the mounting tabs. I drilled small for the speaker mounting and used self drilling sheet metal screws to hold the speaks in to the new plate. I used 1/4"-20 fasteners to mount the plate to the tabs. Also used weather stripping on all metal contacts to prevent vibrations.

Hopefully that is enough to get you going. It doesn't need to be done like this by all means, get creative with it and do it how you think it should be done IMO.

Pete

 

[baxtej44]

I cut out the hole first. I have a large piece of sheet metal that I nibble at that I used for my dash panel. This is what I used for cutting the round hole:

Drill attaches to the top shaft, the center stays stationary in a pre-drilled hole, while the cutter drills the metal. You physically twist the whole thing with the drill attached to cut the round hole. I paid $20 that at Harbor Freight and will save you money in trying other things. Hole saws didn't work for shit. Nor did some other hole cutters that I wasted my time and money on.

Comes in handy for all sorts of fun stuff:

All my measurements are primarily done with a combination square. They are very handy.

I figured out a good place to put the speaker first, measure out from the square edge, then made the first cut with the hole cutter. When using the hole cutter, place the metal you're cutting on a old book (like a phone book) or study box. I made the plate too big by measuring the maximum length and width of the speaker provision. Basically ended up with a square piece of metal with a hole in it. <- Cut with tin snips.

Found this:

Next I placed the metal against the "speaker provision" and traced an outline with a sharpy on to the metal and cut with tin snips so that it could mated up against the mounting tabs.

Once I was happy with the fitment inside and on top of the tabs, I marked the holes to be drilled with a sharpy - through the OEM mounting holes (no measuring). I used a drill that was the same size as what was drilled into the mount tabs. Always use a center punch to mark exactly where the hole should be drilled for optimal accuracy.

Then I stuck the speaker in and marked the mounting holes for that, but watch out for interference with the mounting tabs. I drilled small for the speaker mounting and used self drilling sheet metal screws to hold the speaks in to the new plate. I used 1/4"-20 fasteners to mount the plate to the tabs. Also used weather stripping on all metal contacts to prevent vibrations.

Hopefully that is enough to get you going. It doesn't need to be done like this by all means, get creative with it and do it how you think it should be done IMO.

Pete

wow that's complex lol....

 

[baxtej44]

hey pete,

think weather stripping is a must? i plan to sub up my behind the seat area eventually, either one or two tens, or one or two twelves in a sealed box.


just wanting to know if it would be significant rattling, as there is metal on metal all over my truck...


asking this, because on friday i'm going to a family friends house and we are going to attempt what you have showed me... he has some tin sheet at his house, and access to an assload of tools. if i can just get the speakers mounted for right now, it'd be great, but in particular, what am i going to do for grill covers? i want to protect the speakers, i like the stock ones, because they aren't really wide open so dust can't get in as easily (but i dust my dash off pretty regularly, so that helps)



starting taking off some trim today, and decided when i do sub it up, i'll take off all the trim pieces, and peel back the carpet on the backside of the cab and put in some dynamat or something of the sort, as i feel like it would bounce back some sound better, and would help with road noise.


could also dynamat my door panels.



really been thinking about putting speakers in my doors as well, in the vents that are located in the rear corners of them. how do i run new speaker wire to these? or can i reroute my rear speaker wire, since i plan on getting rid of those for the mean time, but possible putting some back in there with subs/amp if space allows.

 

[a-5 freak]

when you install the sub, you will need an amp (I pray that you will). yo will have to run wires for the amp. That means tearing up your carpet. While you have the carpet up, I would reccomend putting Either eDead or Fat Mat down on the entire floor of the cab.

To run new speaker wire to the doors is a bit of a pain IF you do not know what you are doing. To run new wires to the doos, you must run it through the cord wrap in between the door and the body of the car. The plug inside the door you will have to drill out to get bigger wire inside.

This took me almost 2 days for me to do, considering I was on percoset 15. I still look at some things I did when installing my new HU when I was on those and wondering "what the hell...?"

Just remember that when running wires for an amp, you need to run the power cable and the RCA and signal wires seperately. This will get rid of any interference.

 

[Psychopete]

think weather stripping is a must? i plan to sub up my behind the seat area eventually, either one or two tens, or one or two twelves in a sealed box.

Probably not. But I didn't want to have to go back and do it again if rattling becomes an issue. I just had some lying around, so I used some.

it'd be great, but in particular, what am i going to do for grill covers?

Are you raising the speaker to clear the heater vent tubing? I am going to use the stock grills... They fit even with a coaxial speaker under there, just barely though. Pistons23 also had a good idea with using MDF to mount the speakers and make a new grill..

really been thinking about putting speakers in my doors as well, in the vents that are located in the rear corners of them. how do i run new speaker wire to these? or can i reroute my rear speaker wire, since i plan on getting rid of those for the mean time, but possible putting some back in there with subs/amp if space allows.

On my '88, there is not a single wire that runs into my door from the cab (and I like it that way ). Diagnosing wiring problems there isn't any fun. You'll really open a big can of worms if you don't have power windows or locks with the provisions for the wiring already there. Not sure the best way to go about it, I'd probably see how they did it in '88 from Ford for ideas. Even if it did, there's usually not much room to add more wiring.

The coaxials in my dash really sound decent with my Pioneer deck, certainly gets loud enough (we're not in competitions ). Using the stock rears, but at some point I'd like to replace them with something aftermarket. I just bought a house and I am broke, stuff on my Ranger has been put on hold. I am just glad I bought enough parts the past couple moths to keep me moving on my V8 swap.

Sub is really you're call. I'm going to run what I got - an Audiobahn Immortal 10" @ 1 ohm on a monoblock. I installed bucket seats and am going to put the speaker inbetween them.

Pete

 

[baxtej44]

when you install the sub, you will need an amp (I pray that you will). yo will have to run wires for the amp. That means tearing up your carpet. While you have the carpet up, I would reccomend putting Either eDead or Fat Mat down on the entire floor of the cab.

To run new speaker wire to the doors is a bit of a pain IF you do not know what you are doing. To run new wires to the doos, you must run it through the cord wrap in between the door and the body of the car. The plug inside the door you will have to drill out to get bigger wire inside.

This took me almost 2 days for me to do, considering I was on percoset 15. I still look at some things I did when installing my new HU when I was on those and wondering "what the hell...?"

Just remember that when running wires for an amp, you need to run the power cable and the RCA and signal wires seperately. This will get rid of any interference.

Well maybe I will hold off on the door speakers for a while then, and put them in if I see that I want some richer sound later on.
I will amp the sub lol.. and I know to run the wires seperately because of the EM fields.

So I would end up taking my seats out to put in the amp/subs? How does the deadening material stay down? Adheisve or something? Is it worth it to invest in that stuff for the entire floor and back of my cab? How about doors?

Probably not. But I didn't want to have to go back and do it again if rattling becomes an issue. I just had some lying around, so I used some.
Are you raising the speaker to clear the heater vent tubing? I am going to use the stock grills... They fit even with a coaxial speaker under there, just barely though. Pistons23 also had a good idea with using MDF to mount the speakers and make a new grill..
On my '88, there is not a single wire that runs into my door from the cab (and I like it that way ). Diagnosing wiring problems there isn't any fun. You'll really open a big can of worms if you don't have power windows or locks with the provisions for the wiring already there. Not sure the best way to go about it, I'd probably see how they did it in '88 from Ford for ideas. Even if it did, there's usually not much room to add more wiring.
The coaxials in my dash really sound decent with my Pioneer deck, certainly gets loud enough (we're not in competitions ). Using the stock rears, but at some point I'd like to replace them with something aftermarket. I just bought a house and I am broke, stuff on my Ranger has been put on hold. I am just glad I bought enough parts the past couple moths to keep me moving on my V8 swap.
Sub is really you're call. I'm going to run what I got - an Audiobahn Immortal 10" @ 1 ohm on a monoblock. I installed bucket seats and am going to put the speaker inbetween them.

Pete

Yes the speakers hit the tubing, and the mounting brackets don't line up, so I am going to do the plate design to raise them up, and be able to mount them, but wait... I just realized if the plate is screwed into the original mounting brackets, it would barely be any higher, so should I put some sort of spacer between the original brackets and the sheet metal? like an inch thickness or so? How can I create my own grills? But yeah, the speakers have too much depth, so I have to raise them.

I don't have power windows or locks, and as far as I am aware there is no wires in my doors, so there shouldn't be anything going through the door plug or whatever it's called.

I've had to ajust my highs lows and mids on my HU, because I can't get the loudness I want, and bass at the same time with my speakers, so I just turn the bass output down.. I don't mind, I'll get quality bass when I sub up the back.

In the same boat as you, using factory rears, and they don't sound too bad, but would like to upgrade them to some nice 6x9's, maybe incorporate them into my sub box when I make one. As 6x9's give good quality sound right?

No clue on what subs/amps i want to use....


I think I might want a twelve, but not sure if I'd rather have a 12, or two tens... also depends on the amp too, because I'd like to push about 300w per channel to each sub if I do two 10's, if not maybe like 500-700w to a single twelve.


What should I know about SVC and DVC? I will probably stay away from dedicated "shallow mount subs", and just look for a reg mount sub with a not so big mounting depth.

Got the space behind my seats drawn out to correct dimensions with sketchup, so I can play with boxes while in there.

 

[Pistons23]

when you install the sub, you will need an amp (I pray that you will). yo will have to run wires for the amp. That means tearing up your carpet. While you have the carpet up, I would reccomend putting Either eDead or Fat Mat down on the entire floor of the cab.

To run new speaker wire to the doors is a bit of a pain IF you do not know what you are doing. To run new wires to the doos, you must run it through the cord wrap in between the door and the body of the car. The plug inside the door you will have to drill out to get bigger wire inside.

This took me almost 2 days for me to do, considering I was on percoset 15. I still look at some things I did when installing my new HU when I was on those and wondering "what the hell...?"

Just remember that when running wires for an amp, you need to run the power cable and the RCA and signal wires seperately. This will get rid of any interference.

i like elemental designs, but i wouldnt recomend their deadening. i used their now discontinued edead v1se, and there was absolutely no difference. so i ordered a half roll of rammat. on their website it doesnt show the half roll, but if you call up and explain that your on a budget and would only like a half roll, theyll sell it to you. its a good product and they have good customer service.

 

[baxtej44]

i like elemental designs, but i wouldnt recomend their deadening. i used their now discontinued edead v1se, and there was absolutely no difference. so i ordered a half roll of rammat. on their website it doesnt show the half roll, but if you call up and explain that your on a budget and would only like a half roll, theyll sell it to you. its a good product and they have good customer service.

is dynamat simply too expensive to do my whole floor/back wall of cab?

 

[Pistons23]

dynamat does work well, but i feel its overpriced. i like rammat if your on a budget. if you have the money to spend, id go with second skin <<hands down the best deadener on the market

 

[a-5 freak]

I think that edead is almost the same as dynamat. Just search edead vs. dynamat on google and see what you find

 

[baxtej44]

i know it's a small picture, and not a ford, but this is something i want to do eventually... it looks so nice!



i've got speakers, bucket conversion, learn how to fiberglass, center console, subs/amp in back, all sorts of stuff on my list.

 

[baxtej44]

Might not be to too unfeasible to heat up the tube really good with a heat gun or something and slightly melt the tube to get enough clearance. Don't know though, might make matters worse if it doesn't work out that way. I sort of shopped for price wise, but the big thing was just the size in general. Here is what I ended up with:

Spacer might work too, just have to estimate as best as possible (pad up a little for speak flex) for how much clearance before wasting any time. Speaker might get louder in the dash (speaker diffraction). Also verify that +/- are hooked up the same on each side. If one is backwards, they will be louder left/right side, but quieter centered.

If it doesn't work out, don't get discouraged from doing other things later on. As you run into this stuff, you will tend to get better and better at making stuff work. Worst scenario is you'll have to sell what you have and find something else that will fit.

Pete

this is what i just got done doing! can get some pictures later!!



it worked absolutely great.


1)took dash out
2) made template of the entire speaker hole with grill cover off in cardboard
3) traced speaker for center hole cut out
4) marked holes through the new speaker mounting holes
5) used a grinder to grind out the center hole
6) tin snips to cut out the shape
7) put new tin bracket where it goes, on top of the manufacturer mounting tabs (after grinding off the little lips that are on there to put on homemade clips!)
8) went underneath dash piece, and marked holes for original mounting tabs
9) center punched all holes
10) drilled all holes
11) weather stripped between original mounting tabs and tin
12) weather stripped between speaker and tin
13) put dash in
14) screwed everything in


looks/sounds great.

speakers sound way better now that they are suspended in air



oh by the way, i used a heat gun and the back of a spoon on the heating/cooling duct

the drivers side speaker is still a bit higher, gonna see if i can weather strip between the grill and grill tabs, and see if i can still use the grill cover! hopefully i can, because i would rather not custom fab them