2.3L ('02-'11) How to evaluate '08 4 cyl if can't test drive, get stored codes, or do KOEO/KOER tests? (lol I just know it can be done!)

[knuckledragger]

Hi and thanks in advance for your help.
Total newbie here and this is my first Ranger so feel free to go easy on me. Been driving myself nuts the past few days trying to figure this out by endless internet searching and reading. No dice. I bow to your superior knowledge and humbly ask y'all to educate me.


VEHICLE:
2008 Ranger, 4 cyl., automatic trans

NEED:
I need a rock-solid way to evaluate the condition of motor and transmission without being able to test drive, get stored codes, or run any KOEO or KOER tests.

URGENCY:
High. Being pressured by insurance company to make very quick decision re whether or not we'll buy back the truck they've declared a total loss. (If we keep it we'll have to pay the insurance company whatever the truck's worth as salvage). Can't afford to end up with a salvage truck that needs a bunch of motor or transmission work.

THE BIG QUESTION:
Given that there are no stored codes and it's totally impossible to do a test drive, and given that, unless someone knows some cool trick(s), it's totally impossible to run KOEO and KOER tests (see below if reasons why are important to you)...

Is there a way, using a good off-the-shelf OBD2 scanner, to run some other tests that add up to being as good as, if not even better than, the KOEO and KOER tests as a way to size up the motor and transmission?
Like maybe using a bidirectional scanner to tell the truck to run whatever tests?
(but I'm not even sure if the 2008 ranger can do anything bidirectional, couldn't figure that out on the internet)
Or maybe by capturing the "right" or "best" real-time data?
Or by doing something else I'm currently unaware of?


MORE CONTEXT:

* Motor starts and runs

* Engine sounds and looks generally okay

* Everything under the truck looks intact and okay

* Transmission condition unknown, haven't tried it yet

* Keep alive memory was wiped (battery was removed), so no stored codes and can't run KOEO and KOER tests (DTC P1000 aka "OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete")

* Even if trans is ok, truck isn't drivable more than approx 20 feet either forward or reverse (making it impossible to do the drive cycle required before being allowed to run KOEO and KOER tests)

* Aside from the mechanical unknowns, damage is just cosmetic and we're not worried about being able to get that stuff fixed up

* If no big/expensive motor or trans work is needed, the truck is probably worth keeping (it's been well cared for and it's been good to us)

* I have a decent off-the-shelf scanner already and can get a better one if need be

* I have an okay basic set of mechanic tools and whatever tools I don't have, I can get

* I know a fair amount and have decent mechanical and technical skills - I was a teenage mutant motorhead and grownup junkyard dawg, but that was back in the caveman days when the machines were simpler and way less digital, and I swore it off a long time ago - nowadays I don't have the inclination or patience for good troubleshooting or wrenching. So even though we've had this truck for a good while, I've never done any of the work on it. So all things considered, getting into hands-on/wrenches-on/mulitmeters-on troubleshooting and diagnostics on this truck right now would be a big learning curve, and I don't have the time for that. And plus dammit I just plain don't like doing it anymore.


But, as we all know deep down inside, being a motorhead and junkyard dawg is like being a mafioso or a CIA agent: no matter what you think or do, and whatever you say to yourself or anyone else, you can never really quit the brotherhood. So I'm glad as hell y'all are here for me. I know that collectively you've got all the answers and knowledge and skills and talents and tricks we'll ever need. I know y'all can tell me exactly how to size this thing up proper so I'm not stuck with a dud.

Hit me with whatever you got, looking forward to hearing it. Ask questions, glad to answer. You rule.

Thanks again in advance.

KnuckleDragger

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Why can't it go more than 20 feet?
Go old school and do a compression test and, or a leakdown test. Tho you did say it sounds fine but that will rule out mechanical problems you may not be aware of.
I can't help on the computer diagnostics...

 

[rubydist]

Why do you think the engine and/or transmission condition may be any different than they were before whatever caused the total loss situation?

 

[knuckledragger]

Thanks for thinking about it and the good ideas.

Why can't it go more than 20 feet?

One big reason is need to keep on the good side of the law and it's currently not road-legal. And then there's the whole fuel tank situation, I won't bore you with the details of that. And a few other things that make it undriveable except for the 20 feet or so. Safe to say that without a fair amount of time, money, and work, that Ranger's not going anywhere without a tow truck.

Go old school and do a compression test and, or a leakdown test. Tho you did say it sounds fine but that will rule out mechanical problems you may not be aware of.

Totally viable suggestions, thank you. I s'pose if I can't come up with a way to get highly relevant insight from OBD2 data it might just come down to stuff like compression and leakdown tests (which btw are two of my go-to party tricks from back in the caveman days). But I'd sure like to get a more detailed and comprehensive picture like we can do now in the space age. And it'd sure be nice to find out now if getting the darn thing re-smogged would be an expensive and time-consuming proposition. I mean, a person can dream, right?

I can't help on the computer diagnostics...

Brother! Excellent to meet you here! We might've met up or known some of the same people back in the caveman times, when folks like me were happy fixing the village truck with a stick and a stone. You got valuable skills man, irreplaceable. Keep going for it.

 

[knuckledragger]

Why do you think the engine and/or transmission condition may be any different than they were before whatever caused the total loss situation?

Oh, great question. Short & sweet, it was driven for a while by a very irresponsible, disrespectful, destructive person who quite possibly drove it as irresponsibly, disrespectfully, and destructively as they possibly could. No telling what the poor thing might've been put through during that time. So due diligence is required.

 

[rubydist]

From my point of view, the thing doesn't make enough power to be significantly damaged by aggressive driving for a shortish while, so I would just buy it and move on. (Assuming they ask a reasonable amount for it.)

 

[pjtoledo]

do you have workspace and time? replacing a tranny in a 2wd is easy.
are the fluids still OK?

I'm 2000 miles east of you in the rust belt. anything rust free is worth it here.

I have a 2005 with the 2.3, but a manual tranny. the first 250,000 miles were nothing but oil changes, and brakes.
these trucks are quite durable.

 

[knuckledragger]

From my point of view, the thing doesn't make enough power to be significantly damaged by aggressive driving for a shortish while, so I would just buy it and move on. (Assuming they ask a reasonable amount for it.)

@rubydist I'm envious of your optimism! I definitely wish I could share the sunny outlook. Thanks for making me realize I misspoke: Where I said "aggressive", I actually meant, and should've said, "destructive". And you know how it is - destructive people can make their destructive urges remarkably effective, especially when they really put their minds to it. Regrettably, knowing what I know about the situation, I can confirm that it's for sure a crapshoot. So sad to say, due diligence is definitely required.