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how to delete egr?


VinCecil

Active Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
26
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Manual
Cant seem to find a straight answer online. How to i completely remove the egr, and woukd i have to delete the dppfe too?

Tried to remove the egr tube. Cracked the tube by both nuts from trying to turn them after 3 days of pb blaster, once an hour. I just want to remove the damn thing and be done with it.

Do i remove the tube and the bottom and just cap it off?
 
The best method I have found to do it without a check engine light is to remove all the parts except the DPFE, cap the connections, leave the exhaust side DPFE hose open and hook the intake side to the EGR vac solenoid.

I haven't tried it, but it allegedly will keep the check engine light out.
 
Just as a heads up, the EGR system is there to lower NOx emissions.
NOx jumps up high when cylinder temps start to get high when engine is under a load, i.e. accelerating, climbing hills, towing or hauling.

The EGR lets exhaust gases into the intake at this time, the exhaust gases slow down the burning of fuel in the cylinders, a less explosive burn, which generates more heat, so reduces the heating up of the cylinder and lowers NOx levels.
Side effect of this is that when cylinder temps get high Regular gas(87 octane) starts to self ignite, pre-detonate, ping/knock.
So the EGR helps prevent pinging/knocking.

Engines without a factory EGR systems will run less aggressive spark timing in the computer, to prevent pinging under load.
Engines with a factory EGR system can run a bit more aggressive spark timing because cylinder temps will remain lower.

You may not have a problem, but just keep your ears open after the removal.
If you are starting to get pinging/knocking do not ignore it, it will cause engine damage over time.
 
Last edited:
I run e85 most of the time. My egr is broke, and so is the entire pipe. Nice weld line from an owner 10 years ago split open. As of right now i have rubber hoses, clamps, and hvac tape all over this pipe. Its actually holding up with only a little squirt of air coming out, compared to the tornadoes let loose without all the rigging.

Not worried about cel since its always off. Not worried about pinging. This part has been nothing but trouble for me, and I'd like to remove it.
 
Just as a heads up, the EGR system is there to lower NOx emissions.
NOx jumps up high when cylinder temps start to get high when engine is under a load, i.e. accelerating, climbing hills, towing or hauling.

The EGR lets exhaust gases into the intake at this time, the exhaust gases slow down the burning of fuel in the cylinders, a less explosive burn, which generates more heat, so reduces the heating up of the cylinder and lowers NOx levels.
Side effect of this is that when cylinder temps get high Regular gas(87 octane) starts to self ignite, pre-detonate, ping/knock.
So the EGR helps prevent pinging/knocking.

Engines without a factory EGR systems will run less aggressive spark timing in the computer, to prevent pinging under load.
Engines with a factory EGR system can run a bit more aggressive spark timing because cylinder temps will remain lower.

You may not have a problem, but just keep your ears open after the removal.
If you are starting to get pinging/knocking do not ignore it, it will cause engine damage over time.

I blocked off the EGR on a Chevy I had many years ago and it pinged like crazy. Once I dialed the timing back enough that it didn't ping, it ran like crap and had less power than it did before. So I put everything back the way it was.
 
The proper way to do it requires reflashing the PCM with an aftermarket tuner/custom tune. The e85 will probably keep it from pinging, but without eliminating the EGR programming in the PCM it may still have driveability issues since the PCM will be trying to function as if the EGR is still present and trying to control an EGR valve that isn't there.
 
The proper way to do it requires reflashing the PCM with an aftermarket tuner/custom tune. The e85 will probably keep it from pinging, but without eliminating the EGR programming in the PCM it may still have driveability issues since the PCM will be trying to function as if the EGR is still present and trying to control an EGR valve that isn't there.

If there are no actual benefits from it, and I'd have to get a chip. I think just replacing the pipe and cleaning the egr itself would be the logical route to go.

Thanks for the input, im fixing instead of rigging.
 

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