How to cleanly remove tie rods?

[harriw]

Hi folks,

I'd like to temporarily detach my inner tie rods (passenger side from pitman arm, and driver side from the pass. side) to try to determine if my intermittently stiff steering is being caused by the the box/PS system/column/etc., or the balljoints or tie-rod ends (and also which side if it's in the joints).

Anyone have any tips on how to undo those "balljoints" on the inside of the inner tie rods cleanly such that they can be re-installed when I'm done? The castle nuts look like they may be pretty well rusted onto the studs, and I'm afraid they're just going to turn the ball in the socket. If I knew I was replacing them I could just cut through the stud and punch it out the other side, but I'd rather not commit to $100+ in new INNER tie-rods unless I have to.

My plan is to hope the studs have the flat-blade screw-driver slot in the top like many new ones I've seen, and use a flat-tip on a 3/8" drive breaker bar to hold the stud stationary while I use a box-end wrench on the castle nut (after lots of PB blaster, and after taking a wire brush to the visible threads on the stud). Anyone have any other tips/suggestions?

Now a follow-up: what's the rule-of-thumb on replacing those inner tie-rods? Do you do them any time you do the outer tie-rod ends? Doesn't seem like it from what I've read around here... The boots on mine look better than any other joint on the entire front end. As long as they move smoothly (I can easily check them out once they're disassembled) do you just keep 'em greased and leave them in? What should I look for to see if I should just replace them?

I guess I'm thinking that since they're right up front and easly accessable, I can easily do them later if needed. They would only affect toe-in, which is easy to do (roughly) at home. Question is, how do I know if I need to?

Thanks!

-Bill

 

[Capt Jay]

To get the castle nut off just use and impact wrench. It should spin it off without any problem. As for removing the ball joint. You may get different answers here but this is how I do it. I back one side with a large hammer and hit the other side with an equally large hammer. Just make sure your not stressing the steering box. You hit it a few times HARD and the ball joint will pop out. If they are OK there is no reason not to re-use them. You can use a pickle fork, but it will destroy the boot. Just to be clear. You will be hitting the SIDE of the pitman arm, not the ball joint.

 

[harriw]

Thanks for the quick reply!

You can use a pickle fork, but it will destroy the boot. Just to be clear. You will be hitting the SIDE of the pitman arm, not the ball joint.

I forgot about that part when I wrote my post, but yeah I'd figured a pickle-fork was out if I want to re-use the joint. When you say you'll be hitting the SIDE of the pitman arm... You mean if you use a pickle-fork, right (one hammer on the end of the fork, the other on the side of the pitman arm)? If I'm not using one, I want one hammer on the back (flat) side of the pitman arm, and whack the stud with the other hammer, right?

What about bracing the under-side of the pitman arm with a 2x4 against the ground (cut to length), and then whacking the balljoint stud?

And I assume the joint's good as long as the ball spins smoothly, and there's no play in the joint?

Thanks again!

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You don't want to hit the end of the tapered stud. You want to hit the side of the pitman arm itself where the stud passes through it. The shock from the blow will pop the taper free.

 

[Capt Jay]

You don't want to hit the end of the tapered stud. You want to hit the side of the pitman arm itself where the stud passes through it. The shock from the blow will pop the taper free.

Make sure you have a hammer on the other side to absorb the impact as to not hurt the steering box. Again, you will be hitting one side of the pitman arm and holding a hammer on the other side. You won't be touching the stud or tie rod AT ALL.

 

[harriw]

Ahhhhhhhhh, got it - essentially try to crush the pitman arm between the two hammers (like a three-stooges-type move) where the stud goes through to jar the stud loose. Same for the joint tying the two inner tie-rods together, but "crush" the tie-rod instead right?

Thanks again.

 

[Capt Jay]

Ding, ding, ding, we have a winner.
If you ever need to remove the tie rod ends you essentially do the same thing. You just don't have to back it with anything. Just beat the crap out of the side of the knuckle where the tie rod stud goes through. It will pop right out and doesn't destroy anything. BFH is the answer. Have fun and tell us how it goes.