how should this be fixed?

[compleckz]

Damn dude, your really good at breaking shit. Time for a new beam. Plate it before you put it in.

being good at breaking shit is not something i enjoy.

i dont want it plated like yours, because i dont want to get the radius arm modified, especially since i just paid $60 to have it fixed.

 

[wahlstrom1]

Huh, seeing these pics makes me glad I did the SAS when I did.....

-andrew

 

[Ranger#1]

holy crap

 

[4x4junkie]

its funny (not really!) you guys are talking about plating the bottom of the beam..

i got my radius arm fixed, was going to install it today.. i JUST removed the swaybar bracket and noticed a small bump, look underneath and... holy crap.

That type of damage normally occurs from not having the pinch bolt in that goes behind the diff.

 

[compleckz]

That type of damage normally occurs from not having the pinch bolt in that goes behind the diff.

well its in there, and the pumpkin took a beating too.

my truck is more the exception than the rule.

 

[4x4junkie]

There it is... I see a big gap at the bottom like it's been loose like that for awhile. If the pig isn't clamped down well to the beam there, the whole structure flexes when torque is sent through the diff, causing the beam to crack (and apparently it did the diff too).

You'll probably need a washer in there to take up the gap where the diff has worn down (it'll probably be OK with that part of it broken off if you tighten it down good, although you'll have to check it occasionally to make sure it stays tight).

 

[mjonesjr]

Well I guess I better put a pinch bolt in there!

 

[Ranger44]

There it is... I see a big gap at the bottom like it's been loose like that for awhile. If the pig isn't clamped down well to the beam there, the whole structure flexes when torque is sent through the diff, causing the beam to crack (and apparently it did the diff too).

You'll probably need a washer in there to take up the gap where the diff has worn down (it'll probably be OK with that part of it broken off if you tighten it down good, although you'll have to check it occasionally to make sure it stays tight).

I've taken apart 4 D35's in the past 6 months. 3 of the 4, when I took them apart, and took the pinch bolt out, the tab part of the aluminum diff housing just either crumbled off, or broke off. I think it's just a corrosion problem. The pinch bolts were tight.

But yeah there seems to be a little bit of a gap in there.

 

[4x4junkie]

Well I guess I better put a pinch bolt in there!

I would definitely advise that.

I can name at least a half-dozen people on here that have had that exact same beam failure in the not too distant past. None of them had the bolt in there.

 

[rickcdewitt]

... holy crap.

i wondered what was taking 3 pages to fix a tab

 

[compleckz]

There it is... I see a big gap at the bottom like it's been loose like that for awhile. If the pig isn't clamped down well to the beam there, the whole structure flexes when torque is sent through the diff, causing the beam to crack (and apparently it did the diff too).

You'll probably need a washer in there to take up the gap where the diff has worn down (it'll probably be OK with that part of it broken off if you tighten it down good, although you'll have to check it occasionally to make sure it stays tight).

yea, the bolt was tight, it was pinching, and torqued to spec (lock-tite, and a lock washer).. BUT it wasnt clamping on the diff like you said, due to the worn aluminum..

when i bought the truck, the pinch bolt was broken, and i replaced it not too long after, when i lifted the truck. i didn't notice it wasn't clamping on the diff/i didn't know anything was wrong, cuz i bought the truck with the broken bolt, and it never clamped the diff. when i put a new bolt in--just thought it was normal. dumb.