How in the name of god do you remove the flywheel?

[telsar]

stick a big screwdriver or a prybar through the drive belt and let it get stuck.

 

[BudgetB3000]

Did some calling around, and pretty much no local places rent any impact wrenches, and the only one that does charges quite a bit of money to do so. The nearest harbor freight is about an hour away which is a bit far considering I currently am truckless, however I did find this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN7JE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In the product reviews someone mentions using it to hold the flywheel on their B3000 in order to remove the bolts. The tool should be here Monday so I will report back with results then.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Did some calling around, and pretty much no local places rent any impact wrenches, and the only one that does charges quite a bit of money to do so. The nearest harbor freight is about an hour away which is a bit far considering I currently am truckless, however I did find this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN7JE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In the product reviews someone mentions using it to hold the flywheel on their B3000 in order to remove the bolts. The tool should be here Monday so I will report back with results then.

FWIW that is made half an hour from me.

 

[pjtoledo]

super easy, real simple to hold flywheel with only one person.

grab a double ended boxed wrench in any size that you can get bolts thru.

bolt one end to an outer hole on the flywheel, the other to a bell housing bolt hole.

you can use any piece of metal about 8" long with holes drilled in it

or you can use a section of chain., but since chains only hold in one direction you'll have use a left-handed chain to re-install the flywheel.

 

[pjtoledo]

wow.

I'll match your wow and raise it with a snickers bar

 

[Curious Hound]

I have about 50ft of left-handed chain for sale. I'm also running a sale on gallon buckets of
Prop wash and a few scrap pieces of 1/4" unobtainium.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It's been a long time but I'm pretty sure I've used a wrench and a 2lb hammer. Make sure the wrench is on good and wack the other end with a hammer.

grab a double ended boxed wrench in any size that you can get bolts thru.

I like this idea^^^.

 

[pjtoledo]

It's been a long time but I'm pretty sure I've used a wrench and a 2lb hammer. Make sure the wrench is on good and wack the other end with a hammer.



I like this idea^^^.

that's a "poor man's impact"

hold the wrench, it WILL fly off. I usually use a piece of wood instead of a hammer, it hurts less.

 

[BudgetB3000]

Well the tool came in an it worked! I just leaned it up against the frame and the bolts came out relatively easily. I would recommend it to anyone it does seem very well built. Here is a pic of it on my flywheel.

 

[BudgetB3000]

Also, I thought my rear main seal was leaking, but after further inspection it looks like the oil pan gasket is slighty pressed out on the bottom right portion in the image. I was thinking of just smearing some RTV on there and calling it good since it only leaks a bit of oil. Thoughts? Wouldn't I have to pull the whole engine from the car to replace the gasket?

 

[Curious Hound]

First off, congratulations on getting the bolts loose.

I don't think smearing rtv on it would do any more good than ignoring it. Sealant need a clean dry surface to work their magic. Unfortunately, as I understand it, the engine needs to be lifted so high to remove the oil pan, that pulling the engine completely out is almost easier and definitely safer.

I'm not sure if it would be worth unbolting the oil pan to see if you get enough clearance to clean the area, put rtv on both sides of the gasket, then bolt the pan back on. It might be worth a shot. But don't do it on my advice. Getting the transmission off is almost half the job of pulling the engine. I know it's more work. But in the long run you would be better off if you do the job right this time instead of doing it again later.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[BudgetB3000]

First off, congratulations on getting the bolts loose.

I don't think smearing rtv on it would do any more good than ignoring it. Sealant need a clean dry surface to work their magic. Unfortunately, as I understand it, the engine needs to be lifted so high to remove the oil pan, that pulling the engine completely out is almost easier and definitely safer.

I'm not sure if it would be worth unbolting the oil pan to see if you get enough clearance to clean the area, put rtv on both sides of the gasket, then bolt the pan back on. It might be worth a shot. But don't do it on my advice. Getting the transmission off is almost half the job of pulling the engine. I know it's more work. But in the long run you would be better off if you do the job right this time instead of doing it again later.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

I think you are probably right, but I am a student so I'm not sure if I'll have the time to pull the whole engine before it starts snowing. I ran across this video; it could be promising.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDnSqJqTaHw

 

[cstarbard]

You can do the oil pan gasket on the 3.0 without pulling the engine. I have done it. It is not easy though. You need to get the engine wayyyyyy upp with bottle jacks in order to snake the oil pan off the oil pump pickup that is in the sump of the pan and then clear the engine crossmember. You will also have to unbolt the motor from the motor mounts and watch and jack carefully to make sure you aren't crunching and tugging stuff while you push the engine up. But bottom line, it is possible. Getting the motor back on the motor mount bolts can be quite a pain after this point... if you can get a small shop crane (engine crane) to do this it would be far easier

Pro tip, if you do the oil pan gasket this way paint that oil pan!! They are steel and can get quite rusty and a hole in your oil pan makes for a bad day

Also, my redneck solution for undoing flywheel bolts in the case where you cant put a tool on the crank is to use huge cable ties and secure the flywheel to random stuff on the chassis that is within reach. It sounds stupid, but I have done that a number of times. The one added benefit to this is that once the bolts are out the flywheel can't fall on you because its in a spiderweb of zip ties What someone else was saying about using a wrench or piece of metal and bolts is a better idea, but again fat zip ties (the more the better) can do it just fine

I have one other redneck method that I use to get fan pulley bolts out, that might work on flywheel bolts, though it would be awkward. Put a wrench on one of the flywheel bolts such that when you try to loosen any other bolt with a second wrench, the first wrench is trying to tighten the bolt its on if the flywheel starts to turn. You will have to resist this first dummy wrench as you try to break other bolts free, or let it bottom out on something SOLID. Once all bolts are broken free, you have to tighten one of the bolts you broke loose back down a bit (barely snug) and then use this two wrench method again, this time with your "dummy wrench" on the bolt you just re tightened, and the second wrench on the original bolt that you used to get all the others free. Oddly enough, the bolt you broke loose, then retightened, usually comes out without having to repeat this cycle of two wrenches forever because you (hopefully) haven't torqued it past the point of just a little snug.

Pictures really would have helped the above explanation, I hope it is intelligible enough to understand in case anyone else has this issue and finds this thread later

 

[pjtoledo]

You can do the oil pan gasket on the 3.0 without pulling the engine. I have done it. It is not easy though. You need to get the engine wayyyyyy upp with bottle jacks in order to snake the oil pan off the oil pump pickup that is in the sump of the pan and then clear the engine crossmember. You will also have to unbolt the motor from the motor mounts and watch and jack carefully to make sure you aren't crunching and tugging stuff while you push the engine up. But bottom line, it is possible. Getting the motor back on the motor mount bolts can be quite a pain after this point... if you can get a small shop crane (engine crane) to do this it would be far easier

Pro tip, if you do the oil pan gasket this way paint that oil pan!! They are steel and can get quite rusty and a hole in your oil pan makes for a bad day

Also, my redneck solution for undoing flywheel bolts in the case where you cant put a tool on the crank is to use huge cable ties and secure the flywheel to random stuff on the chassis that is within reach. It sounds stupid, but I have done that a number of times. The one added benefit to this is that once the bolts are out the flywheel can't fall on you because its in a spiderweb of zip ties What someone else was saying about using a wrench or piece of metal and bolts is a better idea, but again fat zip ties (the more the better) can do it just fine

I have one other redneck method that I use to get fan pulley bolts out, that might work on flywheel bolts, though it would be awkward. Put a wrench on one of the flywheel bolts such that when you try to loosen any other bolt with a second wrench, the first wrench is trying to tighten the bolt its on if the flywheel starts to turn. You will have to resist this first dummy wrench as you try to break other bolts free, or let it bottom out on something SOLID. Once all bolts are broken free, you have to tighten one of the bolts you broke loose back down a bit (barely snug) and then use this two wrench method again, this time with your "dummy wrench" on the bolt you just re tightened, and the second wrench on the original bolt that you used to get all the others free. Oddly enough, the bolt you broke loose, then retightened, usually comes out without having to repeat this cycle of two wrenches forever because you (hopefully) haven't torqued it past the point of just a little snug.

Pictures really would have helped the above explanation, I hope it is intelligible enough to understand in case anyone else has this issue and finds this thread later

there is an easier way. it works better on pullies than flywheels.
it kind of resembles a connecting rod turning a crank.

place a boxed end wrench on a bolt at about the 3 o clock position, the wrench must be bigger than the bolt so it will turn. firmly hold the wrench , position it so it's horizontal, goes over 9 o clock. put a correct socket & ratchet on 12 o clock, or any bolt above the wrench. as you turn the ratchet it will eventually strike the wrench as the pulley turns. hold wrench and keep pushing the ratchet to loosen. leave a bolt 1/2 way in, use that one to loosen the last tight bolt.

to tighten the bolts just rotate cw until the ratchet strikes the bottom of the wrench.

sounds confusing, may be I can take a pic tomorrow.

 

[BudgetB3000]

You can do the oil pan gasket on the 3.0 without pulling the engine. I have done it. It is not easy though. You need to get the engine wayyyyyy upp with bottle jacks in order to snake the oil pan off the oil pump pickup that is in the sump of the pan and then clear the engine crossmember. You will also have to unbolt the motor from the motor mounts and watch and jack carefully to make sure you aren't crunching and tugging stuff while you push the engine up. But bottom line, it is possible. Getting the motor back on the motor mount bolts can be quite a pain after this point... if you can get a small shop crane (engine crane) to do this it would be far easier

Pro tip, if you do the oil pan gasket this way paint that oil pan!! They are steel and can get quite rusty and a hole in your oil pan makes for a bad day

Also, my redneck solution for undoing flywheel bolts in the case where you cant put a tool on the crank is to use huge cable ties and secure the flywheel to random stuff on the chassis that is within reach. It sounds stupid, but I have done that a number of times. The one added benefit to this is that once the bolts are out the flywheel can't fall on you because its in a spiderweb of zip ties What someone else was saying about using a wrench or piece of metal and bolts is a better idea, but again fat zip ties (the more the better) can do it just fine

I have one other redneck method that I use to get fan pulley bolts out, that might work on flywheel bolts, though it would be awkward. Put a wrench on one of the flywheel bolts such that when you try to loosen any other bolt with a second wrench, the first wrench is trying to tighten the bolt its on if the flywheel starts to turn. You will have to resist this first dummy wrench as you try to break other bolts free, or let it bottom out on something SOLID. Once all bolts are broken free, you have to tighten one of the bolts you broke loose back down a bit (barely snug) and then use this two wrench method again, this time with your "dummy wrench" on the bolt you just re tightened, and the second wrench on the original bolt that you used to get all the others free. Oddly enough, the bolt you broke loose, then retightened, usually comes out without having to repeat this cycle of two wrenches forever because you (hopefully) haven't torqued it past the point of just a little snug.

Pictures really would have helped the above explanation, I hope it is intelligible enough to understand in case anyone else has this issue and finds this thread later

Thanks for the reply! I was actually able to lower the oil pan enough to snake the new rubber gasket around it and get the bolts tightened up. I did end up knocking a bit of dirt into the oil pan but I sprayed it all down into the bottom of the oil pan and will do a flush with some cheap fresh oil before I fire the car up in order to wash some of it out. Thank you all for the input and help along the way so far!