Luck. I've been doing mine on my explorer all week. The upper and lower mount have sleeves. The sleeves are hex shaped and pressed together. Then it rusts. Now you have 1 sleeve. I managed to use some heat and pound 2 apart. The third one i melted the lower bushing, pushed it up with a jack, then sawzalled the sleeve in half.
Only success I've had with 'em involved a torch and sawzall. Even with my choptop which amazingly I've never really had a rusted fastener issue other than the bodymounts. Some of the bolts came out, but the two piece sleeve in the bushings was rusted solid. I spent time trying to hammer them apart and rapidly lost patience. I do not believe that the sleeves are threaded.
My successes include two trucks that I changed the body bushings on.
Remove the bolt and spray (p'blaster is my choice, WD40 works) inside the bushing once a day for at least 3 days before starting this procedure (loosens rust and makes it easier)
remove bolt from the top
put the bolt into the sleeve up from the bottom (outside the cab) (protect the thread, but not any farther than that). Threads are at the bottom of the lower sleeve, expanded portion is the upper part of the lower sleeve. (important that you only screw the bolt in far enough to cover the threads in the sleeve)
Use a hammer and a long narrow punch from the top (inside the cab). Hammer on the end of the bolt (from inside the cab). This collapses and pushes the sleeves apart. Usually a few good strikes will pound the bolt and lower bushing piece out.
Cut off the expanded end before you put them back together.
Torque to specs (75ft/lbs)
The metal on the bushings is a two piece sleeve/washer set. The end of the lower sleeve (inside the upper sleeve) is expanded to keep them together and in place during assembly. They do rust together, but can be separated using this method.
A sawsall works when needed, but is more difficult to use due to limited space.
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