how do you get this #### thing off?

[purple_fluffer]

got a 99 ranger, changing the timing belt, have to take the AC off and the 20 lb chunk of metal it's screwed onto they call a bracket. it has a 5 lb 10" long arm at the bottom with a roller wheel from a 100 lb. safe stuck on it for the serpentine belt to wrap around.

my problem is, I can't get it off, and I have to get it off to get the timing belt cover off.

looking down the edge of the timing cover, I can see the the arm is free and clear, next to that (the armpit, I guess) no bolts there either. all the bolts should be to the left.

the manual says to take off the AC, then leave the PS on the bracket, as it's a foot long shouldn't be a problem there. just unbolt the bracket and remove it all together.

stepping over to the right and looking over the fender, we can see all the bolt locations.

A is completely blocked by the bracket, it's obvious it was meant to be removed after the bracket is removed, and holds a different bracket for hoisting the engine block. so it doesn't hold on the AC/PS bracket.

B is a nut on a stud that holds down the same bracket as bolt A.

C is a nut on a stud, it holds down a wiring bracket.

the unmarked arrows are the 3 bolts I took out that hold the AC/PS bracket.

but the bracket doesn't come off. I banged on it and wedged it with a crowbar but it doesn't budge.

taking a closer look at C, the stud is coming out of a nut that looks like it was welded on to the bracket. I didn't try to take that off, because I figured they wouldn't be so dumb as to use a stud coming out of the engine block to hold the bracket when everywhere else uses bolts. I'm assuming the nut is welded on.

here's bolt A that was behind the bracket. no other bolts on top to unscrew.

no bolts seen underneath the bracket either, unless they are to the left in the shadows behind the timing cover. I didn't think even Ford would be that sadistic to put the final bolt there, although they did stash some wires. note the flat bottom to accomodate the hydraulic jack when lifting the bracket out.

so, what's keeping this thing on? anybody know where the other bolt is?

 

[scotts90ranger]

in the third picture from the bottom, the bolt you are pointing to is one of ford's beloved stud bolts, it's a bolt with a stud sticking out the top, it's probably what you are fighting. those aren't as bad as the valve cover bolts they have that have over an inch of metal sticking out the head needing a really deep socket.

 

[purple_fluffer]

that was it! I would have never guessed. I swear it looked welded on. thanks.

 

[scotts90ranger]

yeah, Ford and all other manufacturers like to use flange nuts on everything, so that you can push them in with the socket you are using, and to give a larger mating surface.

the bolt being steel and the bracket being aluminum it's not welded, but I can see how it would look that way

 

[tomw]

If you think this is bad, stay away from ChryCo products. I got two or three times as many cuts on my hands from sheetmetal screws sticking out the back sides of brackets swapping a slant six than swapping a 302 into a Ford. They leave sharp edges and corners while the Ford engineers at least look at the parts and how they fit together so you don't get so cut up. They have gotten a lot smarter about mounting accessories. They want them to stay on, not vibrate, and take up the minimum space. The one thing I don't like is the press on pulley on the PS pump.
Were you able to keep the refrigerant in the A/C or did you have to evacuate and re-charge?
tom

 

[rancheroo]

Fluffer, I'm glad you got your answer. I've taken all of the accessories off several times on an earlier Ranger, but didn't have much to offer on your issue. Looked at the pics several times but didn't have much to offer as my AC compressor is on the other side.

Don't get me wrong, I have only Ford keys on my keychain, but they sure like to change things up....

Rick

 

[purple_fluffer]

tom, no, I didn't have to recharge the AC. didn't unhook any hoses.