How do lift kits work?

[iamcams]

I have a 92 Ranger 4x4 Custom. So from what I understand, Rangers came with a slight rake, correct? This was to allow the truck to level when loading up the bed. So if naturally, the suspension in front was say 1 to 3 inches lower than rear, how does a lift kit work? Does it keep that rake but just increase clearance and ride height or does it level out the truck as well? I always see pictures with different size lift kits, but the truck always appears to be level? Can anyone explain how this works?

 

[pentode]

I’m far from a lift kit expert, but as a guy who used to do it with hockey pucks and hardware store U-bolts I feel qualified to at least give a preliminary answer: you can set it up any way you want, depending on the kit you choose etc. There are lots of ways to lift a truck so you have unlimited options. You can choose a kit that gives you a certain range of adjustments or you can roll your own from scratch. You’ve got non- stock springs, lift blocks, coil overs, modded suspension components. If you want to keep some rake you can, if you prefer the Carolina squat you can do that too.

If you have questions about specific kits etc I’m sure the experts here will be able to answer your questions too.

 

[Ranger850]

I have a 92 Ranger 4x4 Custom. So from what I understand, Rangers came with a slight rake, correct? This was to allow the truck to level when loading up the bed. So if naturally, the suspension in front was say 1 to 3 inches lower than rear, how does a lift kit work? Does it keep that rake but just increase clearance and ride height or does it level out the truck as well? I always see pictures with different size lift kits, but the truck always appears to be level? Can anyone explain how this works?

They also make a "leveling Kit" that raises the front a few inches to level out the truck.
OR
Some Rangers come with 2" lift blocks on the rear axle, and removing them almost levels the truck out.
As @pentode mentioned, there are several ways to achieve your goal

 

[superj]

Mine had the lift blocks and pulling them did lower it 2 inches.

Here is with blocks

Here is with no rear blocks and lowered torsion bars

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It’s a matter of what you’re after and how much you’re willing to spend. A lot of cheap lift kits leave something to be desired with load carrying capacity and usually performance in general.

Factory and new, slight rake, and traditionally the 2wd trucks sat about 2” lower than the 4x4

I’m not a fan of the super stiff leaf or couple of them cheap lift kits give you. I’m not a fan of lift blocks either on leaf springs, it’s just a bigger lever to twist the leaf springs (axle wrap).

Moving spring hangers, using different springs/custom springs, and different shackles is much better.

 

[Curious Hound]

Lift kits generally lift both front and rear the same amount. Lift/leveling kits will Lift unevenly to also achieve leveling. Lowering/leveling kits will lower unevenly to also achieve leveling. I put a 2/4 lowering kit on my 97 F150 that lowered the front 2 inches and the rear 4".

 

[MaicoDoug]

Be aware that changing the suspension can & will effect the overall suspension travel especially the compression rate of force applied to the tire/wheel. Sometimes you will gain travel or loose it. Depending on what exactly you end up doing. People are always looking for the "stance". That happens well after the fact. You would be amazed what you can get away with a stock looking setup.

There is 2 categories regarding lifts; 1) form (what does it look like)? Like it or not. 2) function (what does it do) Like it or not.

To level out the truck for instance, will I raise the front or lower the rear, or both? So I want the front to be higher, just like the rear. Problem: if I crank the torsion bars up, now it rides like a cement truck....hummm, I have lost suspension travel. But if I install taller springs, I can keep my same amount of uptravel and gain 2 additional inches of height (down travel), but now it will move up & down more & it feels nice too!. You have to be a suspension scientist to understand what is available to you as well as the shortcomings of any modifications that you (or others as an example) may perform. Excellent question BTW. Keep asking questions. The more you ask, the more you will learn, plus the more you will understand to help yourself & others.

My advice is to not attempt to stick the wheels out wider, keep the lifts where you can USE them. In other words, stay away from the mall parking lots & get out off-road and see what works where you need it, more than likely the requirements for additional clearance will leave it's mark and tell you what you need to do. So you see the stance is something that happens after the design. If you modify for the "form" first, then that's all you got including the leds to light it all up. So the question to you is this: do you want form or function? Add travel or take it away?

Eibach had a lowering kit for my Challenger, installed it lost 2" of suspension travel and it's 2" lower to the ground. Just what I wanted. Now the force of suspension is compressed into 4" total. 2 inches up & 2 inches down.

 

[superj]

thats the positive about pulling the stock spacers for the edge and 4x4 guys and going lower.

we have huge speed bumps at the entrance and exit to the base where i work. everyone always slows down to 2 or 3mph to go over so it sucks. when there is no one in front of me, i go over them at 30mph because the suspension just absorbs the whole amount of bump/drop and the truck is smooth as glass.

in my daily driver cars that i also used to race, lowering using springs lost actual travel so going over those speed bumps became an ordeal. like i hated driving the cars as daily's anymore and i ended up selling them and starting a new car to build in hopes of finding that perfect suspension.

funny that it turns out the ranger handles the bumps perfectly going fast and still goes through the turns enjoyably quick.