How do I wire the third brake light and accessory light on a camper shell?

[AngryGerbil]

I recently purchased an ARE camper shell and was wondering how to wire the third brake light and accessory light. I have read several different ways to wire it but was wondering who had the easiest and best way. It should be noted that I am not the smartest electrician, but can easily follow instructions.

I have a three wire harness provided by ARE that I can used to attach and detach the shell when it is taken off. I guess I am just asking, exactly what wires should I use to splice into. Some people say to use the wires on the tow package and I have seen others that say to run the wires to the front into the cab and splice into the dome light.

Anyway, does anyone have any suggestions, or know of a web page I can view. Thanks for any info.

I have a 2000 Ranger 4X4 Off Road with tow package.

 

[snake]

If you just want an interior light to turn on with a switch inside the camper shell, you can get power for it anywhere there is 12V all the time (not the trailer wiring harness tho, it is only "hot" when the brake lights, parking lights, or turn signals are on.

If you want it on when the truck's interior light is on, you will have to splice into the interior light circuit (dome light would be a good source) Personally, I would want it to turn on with a switch WITHOUT the truck light being on, especially if you are going to spend time inside the camper shell sleeping, etc. For this application, find 12V in the cab and run it to a switch mounted near the shell's rear door somewhere. Run another wire from another "pole" of the switch and up to the light. Then find a ground for the light somewhere. The switch simply interrupts the power from the power source to the light.

On the brake light you will need to go the the brake light circuit (which IS down at the trailer hitch wiring). You can splice into the stop light wire at the hitch and run the wire up to the 3rd brake light, then provide a ground for that light also.

An easier way might be to remove the taillight (doesn't matter which one) and splice into the brake light wire behind there. The benefits might be that the wire can be run straight into the bed with less wire than from the trailer hitch. You will need a test light to verify which is the "hot" brake light wire in either case. Ground the test light, and poke into the wire you suspect is the brake light wire. Have someone step on the brake, and the test light should light up and go off when they let off of the brake. Splice into that wire and run it up to the brake light. If the light is grounded properly it should work. Make sure you don't have the parking lights or backup lights on when fishing for the brake light wire... it will show "hot" and you'll possibly get the wrong one...

Use conduit, fuses and tie-wraps to make sure you keep it clean and safe- and if you can't find 12V where there should be, check the fuses- hitting the wrong place with a bare wire can pop a fuse in a heartbeat.

 

[Joe_Roofer]

Hey thanks Snake. I never thought of the trailer hookup.
I took the third brake light right off my cap, didn't feel like dealing with it. My truck is old enough it dosen't have one anyway, but that sounds like a real quick way to wire it up.

 

[RobbieD]

On the old trucks the tail lights are combination brake and turn signals. Connecting a third brake light after the turn signal switch would make the third brake light come on with the brakes, and also with one of the turn signals. I think on the newer trucks it's a different wiring layout, and you can get a true brake wire in the back of the truck. On those, going for a tail light or the towing harness would definitely be the ticket.

But on an older truck, for the right brake light circuit for the third brake light I think that you'll have to go into the cab and catch it at the brake pedal switch.

 

[AngryGerbil]

Thanks for all the info guys, any help is always appreciated. I actually did some more searching on the net and found a good article with instructions on a little bit different way to do it. It requires more wire but seems to be a little cleaner. Anyway I added the link below for anyone else who might be wondering. Again thanks for all the info.

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.trucks.ford/browse_thread/thread/80f20a8582795417/2d4a3640a9eed6db%232d4a3640a9eed6db