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How do I remove a Broken Easy Out?


BillRod

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2008
Messages
222
City
Colorado Springs CO
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Manual
One of the motor mount bolts in the block of the new engine is broke off, I drilled it out but the MAC Tools easy out broke off inside the hole.

The Milwaukee Titanium Drill bit set is not making a dent in the easy out.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
Bill
 
The trick, and this is key here, in the extreme, is to not break the easy out.

Easy outs taps and drill bits are all hardened. They can't be drilled.

You have two options at this point:

1) Take the block to a machine shop and have them get it out.

2) Snap-On makes a tool similar to a dentist's drill, you would need that and a set of mini-carbide burs and you can basically get behind it and grind it down that way. That set is about $400, and it is a pneumatic tool, so you need air.

Good luck.
 
heat up area around the bolt hole.
Metal expands
Then cool down just whats left of the bolt/eze-out, cold air, water??
Metal shrinks

Then try using a Reverse Drill bit, it may catch, reversing the drilling direction "unscrews" the bolt piece, and vibration from drilling can loosen it.
When you use a regular drill bit you are actually "tightening" the already overtight/rusted bolt piece, so not doing yourself any favors :)
I also have used a hammer drill with reverse drill bit to give bolt a few "love taps" to break rust loose then switch to regular reverse drilling
 
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I feel for you....

Sometimes you can shatter the easyout with a hammer and an old carbide drill bit. I haven't actually done that but read about it.

I don't use easy outs anymore because of what you are experiencing. Now I drill out the old bolt and either tap a bigger hole or use heli-coil or similar. I bought both metric and sae helicoil clone kits that have the 7 most common sizes. The kits cost about C$125.00 each at Princess Auto. Harbor freight would have the same deal or better. The reverse drill bits can work and don't cost that much.
 
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Heat: either weld a nut to that tap with a mig and unscrew, or burn it out via oxy-acl...plasma if you are brave.
I suppose grinding might work but that hardened stuff is tough.
Once I had luck with fracturing a tap loose (the eloquent way of saying I used a hammer).
 
I actually have an extractor to remove broken taps it has a die and little fingers that slide down in the groves like a 4 prong key. I have had pretty good luck drilling 4 holes on the outside edge of the stuck bolt putting the tool on there and extracting them with that if something breaks off while trying to remove it. If it is not in the vehicle it makes it much easier but I have extracted bolts in vehicles with the method as well.

If there is anything sticking up you can weld a nut in there and use that to back things out as usually the heat from welding with break up what ever was sticking it in place to begin with.
 
heat up area around the bolt hole.
Metal expands
Then cool down just whats left of the bolt/eze-out, cold air, water??
Metal shrinks

Then try using a Reverse Drill bit, it may catch, reversing the drilling direction "unscrews" the bolt piece, and vibration from drilling can loosen it.
When you use a regular drill bit you are actually "tightening" the already overtight/rusted bolt piece, so not doing yourself any favors :)
I also have used a hammer drill with reverse drill bit to give bolt a few "love taps" to break rust loose then switch to regular reverse drilling

I've tried the icy/hot method to limited success in the past. The problem is it usually works too fast for you to be able to do anything.

Also, to get the easy out out wouldn't you want to use a standard drill bit?


I actually have an extractor to remove broken taps it has a die and little fingers that slide down in the groves like a 4 prong key. I have had pretty good luck drilling 4 holes on the outside edge of the stuck bolt putting the tool on there and extracting them with that if something breaks off while trying to remove it. If it is not in the vehicle it makes it much easier but I have extracted bolts in vehicles with the method as well.

If there is anything sticking up you can weld a nut in there and use that to back things out as usually the heat from welding with break up what ever was sticking it in place to begin with.

I have seen those extractors. They are wonderful for broken taps, but not as good for broken easy-outs.
 
I forgot the Wax helper, after heating touch candle to hole/bolt, wax will wick into the threads, helps to remove crud in threads and lubes if bolt ever starts to move.
Old exhaust shop method.

I doubt the eze-out will come out, regular or reverse bit, could get lucky with regular.
 

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