Houston we have a problem...

[AllanD]

Arrrggghhhhhhh!

Went to get in my tuck to run a few errands and smelled gasoline... not an abnormal thing with my truck.

but afterdropping my keys I see a wet spot... that's not right....

After poking and probing, and unbolting the T-case skid plate
I find that my tank selector valve is leaking... Not good

I know the valve is made of solid unobtanium
(this is why I have spares) but one of the spares
is untested another is known bad, the third is another problem
Ford changed the type of connector on the valve on the 1988's

Now understand that the valve is a riveted together unit that
isn't intended to be "worked on", I regarded that as a challenge
so mine is held together with stainless steel screws.

I've been "inside" this valve before as it's a "frankenstein" valve
(built from several others) so I get out my screwdriver and take it apart.

the problem? a tiny O-ring.
3/16" in diameter, with a 3/32ID, it's the valve stem shaft seal
(there are two push-pull valves inside the unit)
the O-ring is split... fortunatly after all that I have another O-ring
Problem solved? Not quite...

Now we start discussing collateral dammage, the gasoline leaking from the lead screw motor housing (that's how they operate the valves) dribbled onto the electrical connector and the plastic they used turned into a crumbly putty like substance.

So after correcting the mechanical problem (literally a $0.03 O-ring)
I get to deal with an apparrently insoluble (pun intended) problem
dealing with reconnecting five dangling wires to my fuel selector
valve because the connector shell fell apart...

If my truck was an '88 instead of an '87 this wouldn't be a problem.
the '88 valve uses the same connector body as the common TFI module

But from bench testing the '88 valve I have appears to be dead....

AD

 

[almostclueless]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1137552,parttype,6276


If this is the right animal I'm so gonna give you flak for not looking very hard

 

[metalmacguyver]

Doesnt sound like anything that you cant handle.

 

[BlackBII]

I don't know, it appears Allan has met his match, lol!

 

[almostclueless]

AD should be able to build a functional concorde out of a RBV..... I'm so disappointed.

 

[MAKG]

My approach when I get something uncommon from the factory (e.g., early 1991 4.0L A/C lines) is to retrofit to something a bit more common, if feasible.

Why not put a 1988 fuel selector in there? Yours is apparently dead. Then the electrical connector is no BFD.

 

[Dangeranger3]

unobtainium

sounds cool. where can I get some?


Good luck fixing your doohickey.

 

[kunar]

I know the valve is made of solid unobtanium

ha, watch out. scrappers will be ripping those from trucks to make a quick buck next.

 

[Shran]

I'd offer to send you mine, seems how I removed one of my gas tanks. But my fuel gauge apparently won't work without it and I'd not like hacking my harness apart

 

[Will]

My motorhome has a cable operated valve. I like it. The one on my Chevy is large and has a motor that drives it. When the engine is off you can hear it run when you thumb the button. It takes a few seconds for it to switch. I know the gauge will switch immediately but if you don't push the button firmly enough, the engine will continue to draw from the empty tank. So I always hold it down until my thumb is white from the effort.

 

[AllanD]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1137552,parttype,6276


If this is the right animal I'm so gonna give you flak for not looking very hard

No, it isn't, that uses hose barbs (atleast according to the picture)
The valve on my truck uses the plastic hairpin clip connectors.

Because I don't have any rubber hose in my fuel system
and the valve on my truck is relocated about a foot
forward of where the factory put it, because it wouldn't
clear the larger main fuel tank I'm running.

MY "issue" is that the newer valve (that was used on Econolines and F-series trucks with DIESELS) uses a different connector.

I'm either going to have to swap internal parts into that later motor housing and do some wire splicing

This post isn't about "impossibility", hell I've got a dual tank 4.0 truck
and that's pretty damned sweet.

It's about frustration over a 3cent O-ring ruining my day and probably tommorow and saturday as well.

AD

AD

 

[Hahnsb2]

I don't know, it appears Allan has met his match, lol!

No, he's just met a Ford... I've learned to expect everything to be different...

 

[4x4RangerGuy]

I don't know, it appears Allan has met his match, lol!

I get scared when Allan can't figure out something.

 

[AllanD]

My approach when I get something uncommon from the factory (e.g., early 1991 4.0L A/C lines) is to retrofit to something a bit more common, if feasible.

Why not put a 1988 fuel selector in there? Yours is apparently dead. Then the electrical connector is no BFD.

MAKG, an '88 connector won't do me any good because the 88 valve I have is dead.

If I can fix the 88 valve then I can use the '88 valve with an '88 connector... but I hate not having an assembled spare for something

Where I'll look for the connector I need is on a dual tank econoline.
One earliy enough to still have a carb.

AD

 

[Jspafford]

Allan, do you still drive around with all the fuel in the bed? That was scary man, I though you were part of the taliban or something when you were here.

I thought you had the tank in the bed plumbed into the fuel system, or is that what this valve is for?