Home made 1" body lift

[Ranger44]

What could I use to make my own body lift. I only want about an inch of lift. Would I have to extend my steering or shifter after only and inch? What type of material should I use. Metal spacers worry me, maybe to rough of a ride??? Thinking of some ideas, maybe someone can think of something I haven't yet....

 

[camodown]

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/showthread.php?t=29269

 

[AllanD]

I made my own 1" lift.

In the back I used short blocks of 1" x 2" steel tubing that I WELDED to the frame
so that I could bolt the bed to the blocks using the factory hardware and clip nuts.

I actually made and welded in TWELVE blocks because I wanted the deck support crosspieces to be supported as well.

In the front I was replacing my body mount bushings with Energy suspension urethane.

the problem with most aftermarket urethane bushings is that they are designed and intended to be used with the factory hardware.
The problem with that is the reason you are usually replacing the factory body mtg bushings is because the internal hardware has rusted itself back into iron ore.

And buying a complete set of factory hardware will run well over $150.

So I made my own piloted washers (washers with a tube that engages the tube from
the washer on the opposite side of the bushings), but instead of using thin tubing I engineered it wo use thickwalled PIPE.
And it is HEAVILY welded to what fastenal calls "thick fender washers"

I used 7/8" ID washers and reamed the center hole to allow the pipe I was using to be pressed through the washer , then put a heavy bead at the bottom (requiring a 3/8" champfer to be cut into the top of the urethane bushings)

I integrated a stack of such washers welded together to create a 1" body lift for the cab, the wahsers were themselves welded together with a "zig-zag" weld.
on the outsied to keep them from moving (because only the top and bottom washers are actually welded to the pipe)

At the bottom washer I didn't actually include a tube to pilot into the upper pipe,
but I did weld the nuts to 5/8" thick fender washers.



I didn't really want the lift for tire or suspension clearance,
as I run modest (235/75-15) tires and an essentially stock suspension

but I've never been happy with the underbody wrench clearance.

No extensions are necissary for the steering column or shifters with only 1" of lift.


BTW, my cab is held to the frame with 5/8" grade 8 bolts
I used grade 8 not because I wasnted them to be "stronger"
but because grade 8 was what was available "off the shelf"
in the lengths I needed.

AD

 

[Ranger44]

Alright!!! Just really glad to know if it could be done without all the extended stuff. Looks like this is a path that I will take. Thanks.