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Home bent TTB beams


marvilusone

Active Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
26
City
Kannapolis, NC
Vehicle Year
1985
Transmission
Manual
Took all day to weld, had to go slow so I wouldn't warp them. Bent for 3" of lift with stock mounting points. Best part is they only cost me $15 in materials.
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did you lengthen them as well? I have been curious about cut and turned beams..... how do you keep the axle width the same so you don't mess up the axle shafts?
 
From what I can see, there are only two ways to cut an turn a ttb beam. Either at the end near the ball joints or where he did.
 
and that way is not what i would prefer.
 
never seen it done that way, cant wait to see them installed,

did you use a jig when you cut and welded them?
 
did you lengthen them as well? I have been curious about cut and turned beams..... how do you keep the axle width the same so you don't mess up the axle shafts?
From all the measurements I took before and after each side has lost about 3/8" of width. The only axleshaft that will be affected with where I turned mine will be the passenger side. It will need to be 3/4" shorter than stock but from looking at everything if I trim off the c-clip ear on the inner shaft and run the spring mod to eliminate the clip I should have more than enough travel in the slip since my suspension is going to be more droop than compression. I should be ok. We'll see what happens. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

and that way is not what i would prefer.
Why not? I'm not trying to be a dick by any means but I'm curious to know why. The TTB is a new challenge for me to try to do something different so I'm learning as I go. I'm open to all opinions as well as criticizim. I've had so many solid axle rigs, I'm just ready to build something that's challenging and will make me think to try to make it work on a budget. I haven't seen any TTB rigs on any of the trails around my part and I'd like to be the first and show everyone what a TTB rig is capable of.

never seen it done that way, cant wait to see them installed,
did you use a jig when you cut and welded them?
I used alot of clamps as well as tacking on a few sections of angle to help keep everything aligned while I was welding. I also took a crap ton of measurements before, during and after to try to keep everything in check. As far as I can tell there is very minimal warpage if any. Once I get some more done on the truck I'll post a link to my build thread over on NC4x4.
 
Why not? I'm not trying to be a dick by any means but I'm curious to know why. The TTB is a new challenge for me to try to do something different so I'm learning as I go. I'm open to all opinions as well as criticizim. I've had so many solid axle rigs, I'm just ready to build something that's challenging and will make me think to try to make it work on a budget. I haven't seen any TTB rigs on any of the trails around my part and I'd like to be the first and show everyone what a TTB rig is capable of.
.

For trail running IMO a cut & turned TTB actually puts you at a disadvantage by having the pivot point higher up in the chassis like that (creates greater jacking forces on off-camber sidehills, along with greater track width narrowing as the suspension unloads on uphill climbs).
Check out my rig (BII). I actually enjoy taking it into so-called "solid axle territory" and it does fine. The beams are completely stock, aside from reinforcement in a couple key areas.

A C&T TTB with it's better bracket clearance definitely has it's place in high-speed jumping and duning however.
Most guys usually mod them out near the balljoint end. This gets the diff up higher in the process as well.
 
A C&T TTB with it's better bracket clearance definitely has it's place in high-speed jumping and duning however.
Most guys usually mod them out near the balljoint end. This gets the diff up higher in the process as well.

i did my cut and turned ttb this way it was lengthed near the bottom ball joint
if you can see threw the paint there was a triangle shaped plate installed over the top of it after it was cut and turned, this leaves the pumkin up higher out of the way.
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hey simon I just read all 11 pages of you build. Very nice just a few questions, Why are you banned at DR, and are you going to primm this month for the race.
 
hey simon I just read all 11 pages of you build. Very nice just a few questions, Why are you banned at DR, and are you going to primm this month for the race.

i am banned from dr because i was 'talking crap' about rdc which i was also banned from :icon_thumby:

no i wont be going to primm this month i am going to the baja 500 instead i wont have the time or $$$ to do both.
 
any chance you will start a thread over here in prerunner's showing the build up of your rig. and O i must be nice to have sponsors like BFG and KING. cause I could really use some Coil-overs for my d50-44 hybrid I swaping in to my 87. you want to trade some 2.5 smoothbodys for some coil overs LOL
 
Simon, you got banned from RDC and DR?? Where the ef have I been?

Anyway back on topic. I agree that this isn't the best way to cut and turn the beams. It seems like everyone that does it this way eventually cusses out the TTB because of the problems in axle shafts that this setup has. These same guys eventually rip out the TTB for a D44 solid axle and then find themselves on Pirate and act like they are badasses because of the SAS they did.

I was once blind and though this was the only way to Cut and turn. Untill I started reading how the desert racers were doing the cut and turn. You don't see any cuts to the beam like shown above. All done at the ball joints. Much better way and you don't loose any track width. if anything you can gain a small amount.
 
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