High RPM Miss

[TheNicky]

Just an update!
i took the dizzy off again to see if any further damage was done!

Theres 2 rivets on the top there and were extremely loose... causing the 6 pickups to be pretty plyable... i could move it alot my self... so i pressed the rivets down and whamooo one solid dizzy... so i put it back in and have yet to test drive it!

Thanks guys for your patience

 

[dangerranger83]

Drive and look at the rivets again right before smogging. Hopefully this fixes the miss.

 

[enginepaul]

I also put a drop of Locktite on the rotor screws after having one come off.
It gets to be a pain when you keep re-checking - and then find something a simple as this.

I hope this is it!

 

[TheNicky]

Due to Ford and there BS
my 2002 focus dropped a valve seat at 127k

which forces me to get this ranger legal
so today i will be ordering
New CAT, New Dizzy, And new coil
Hopefully that does it... waiting for RockAuto to put there CA legal Cats up!

 

[dangerranger83]

Those cars are junk IMO. Cheaper to do that then fix the Focus?

This should take care of the problems...............hopefully.

 

[TheNicky]

The 2.0 is a piece of junk...
Maintained it since day 1 off the lot with 9 miles on it back in 02...
7 years old and the most expensive repair i had were motor mounts...

so it was pretty good to me... but those 2.0'sin the focus and escorts dropped valve seats like nobody's business... i was driving a ticking time bomb since day 1 so....

Still waiting for Rockauto to put thier CATs up for CA

 

[tnt4me]

Hey folks,
Kinda new here, but have turned wrenches for a long time. now.

Here is a very simple thing to note: everytime you change something that deals with the emissions, you MUST disconnect the negative battery terminal for at least 5 min then drive the truck 10 miles so the PCM (Primary Control Module) can clear the Keep Alive Memory error codes and can can relearn the new system settings.

Also, the check of the Airpump is as follows:
Disconnect hose from airpump to Bypass valve on valve end. With the truck started, there should be air coming out, more air with higher rpm's. Reconnect that if good.
Disconnect vacuum line (wierd kinda pinkish/fleshy color on mine). With the negine started and either your finger, mouth, or a zip lock bag tied around the end, rev the engine up to 1500 rpm. That line should active and you will be able to tell if there is vacuum. Let the rpm's down and it should shut off. If no vacuum, check the line. ALOT of people used to block these lines for whatever reason.
With the truck started, grab the filter area with one hand. When you rev up the truck, the air blowing out of there should stop "venting" and blow up to the air check valve
Next disconnect both hoses up top. With the vacuum line attached air should come out the lower back top hose, but not the top hole. When you disconnect the line, SOME air should come out both. If not, replace.

Remember to check both vacuum lines 1st! That is the #1 place there is a failure or leak.
Also, disconnect the neg battery term for at 5 min.

I hope this helps, when I fixed this "Emissions" area, I was able to pass emissions. Someone stuck a BB in one of the vac lines on mine, drove me friggin crazy til I found that one out.

 

[TheNicky]

Thanks TNT..
i didnt know that such old cars also required computer like resets...


And wow a BB people are truely sinical lol

 

[tnt4me]

The BB is an old trick to bypass the emissions. Some states (mine) did not require emisions, but the stuff had to be there if equipped. So people would block the lines to give the appearance of the system being functional.

 

[enginepaul]

Interesting take on the computer. The Ford manual says to erase codes, nothing about disconnecting power that I ever saw.
I think if you read the various manuals, you will see ways of re-setting computers. Most re-learn after about 10 start and stop cycles. For instance, my Cad could have the idle re-set through a process, or it would re-set by itself after about ten ignition cycles.

 

[GoodOld85BlueBalls]

From the EEC-IV testing link:
These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles. To clear the codes for purposes of testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure. When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner. Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory. Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.


So did the new catty get it to pass?
It made all the world of difference on mine. It cut the Hydrocarbons in half. I was shocked at how much smaller it was than the original catalyst on my 85.

 

[TheNicky]

No i didnt order it becuase rock auto cant sell Cats to CA anymore and a local shop wants 210 for one... so ill try my 30 pretest if it fails with my improved dizzy ill go buy a cat.... i failed because i had a miss...

 

[TheNicky]

UPDATE: I found my miss and it was the 2 loose rivets on my distributor... tightened those bad boys up..

Put on a new CA cat which was 230 bucks but it passed me smog... so today i will have plates... ABOUT FRIGGIN TIME!

 

[dangerranger83]

Finally, glad to hear that you can drive it.

Now its time to put the 8.8 under it and get your build thread going again.

 

[TheNicky]

i know... i got my front bumper on and wired my new lights upp... im stoked!