Hey guys.

[Aricosmogirl]

Hey guys idk if some of you have read about my truck having a ticking sound coming from my engine, and had two mechanics take a look an with no luck couldn't find anything. So I was thinking cause I still don't want to get rid of my truck but if I have to I will. So my question is where would be the best place to get a new or newish engine to put in my truck, because I don't know how long it will last. It currently has a 04' 3.0L V6 engine in it an its a 97' ford ranger. Any feedback would be awesome cause this truck is worth the time an work to me. Well if anyone can get back to me would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

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[stmitch]

Does it tick constantly, or only under certain conditions?

 

[RonD]

Any non-Flex Fuel 3.0l would be fine to swap in, just an in and out swap of a rebuilt Long Block would be fine.
Long Block = rebuilt crank, pistons, cam, block, oil pump, timing chain and valves/heads.

You reuse your oil pan, exhaust and intake(injectors) manifolds, valve covers and all sensors.


A used 3.0l would be less money but same labor, and you have the possibility of buying someone elses problem, i.e. a ticky motor.

Here is a good read on rebuilt 3.0l
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3_0-build.html

Long block V6 usually runs about $1,500

Call a few local Machine shops they can give you a price on rebuilding your 3.0l so you have a general idea for your area, they usually do not do the remove and replace just the rebuilding but they can often recommend a mechanic that does do it.

 

[Kowboy]

The first thing I'd do is remove the accessory/serpentine belt and start the truck. If the ticking goes away it could be an easy fix for you. Possibilities: any of the pulleys/tensioner pulley, water pump. alternator, air conditioner compressor / clutch or power steering pump. It could even be the belt itself. I've heard that the fuel injectors can tick loudly at times. A spark plug wire gone bad, could also be the culprit. When I replaced my water pump and cam sensor, just recently, my engine got extremely quiet. It really surprised me. Don't panic, as to thinking your engine is gone.

 

[Kowboy]

I just noticed that you have another post going about this problem. After listening to your video, from the other post, I would not call that a tapping but more of a slapping / knocking sound. I'd again try removing the serpentine belt and go from there. It could be a motor mount allowing the engine to rock and causing some other conflict. It did not seem to make the noise at idle. I still do not believe it's new engine time yet.

 

[adsm08]

Well, I watched the video a couple times, and while I am not sure what it is, I am fairly certain that it won't be fatal. I kinda think it might be an exhaust leak.

It's kinda like my bad arm. Don't have a clue why it hurts, but I know I'm not gonna die from it.



I would do the tests suggested by Kowboy and Ron.

First try it with the belt off and see if that makes any difference. If it doesn't then have someone put their hand over the tail-pipe and see if it makes the noise worse.

If you have access to the right equipment exhaust leaks can be really easy to find.

Needed items are:

Tail-pipe adapter:

Regulator:

^You need that style^.

Compressed air, and a spray bottle with bubbles in it.


Stick the rubber cone in the tail pipe, thread the regulator in it, dial it down to minimum pressure, and then hook up air pressure and spray around until you find a spot that blows bubbles.

 

[Aricosmogirl]

I'm going to have to look into that serpentine belt on the truck. I've had two mechanics take a look at it an he's looked at everything like the pistons, wrist pins, my tranny, basically everything. Hence is why I think doing a whole brand new or used engine would be a better idea. I might have another mechanic I know to take a look at it. If still no progress in making it better then new engine here I come. Thanks for getting back to me. If you know any where that may be selling engines in CA area like in Rancho Cucamonga or La Verne would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again guys. I'll post some engines I find online an what not an give me your opinion on it. Thanks guys!

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[Aricosmogirl]

Sorry the pictures are crappy. Here is one engine I thought would be a good one to get if I can't figure out the problem with my truck.

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[stmitch]

To look at wrist pins, bearings, and pistons, you have to basically remove the engine from the truck, and completely disassemble it. You're telling me these mechanics removed the engine, did a complete tear down, and couldn't find what was making the noise, so they just slapped it all back together and put the engine back into the truck?!

The noise in your video doesn't sound like it would be coming from any of the things they looked at anyway to me. As others have mentioned, an exhaust leak would probably be the cheapest to fix, and easiest to find. If the exhaust looks good, I'd start checking the valve train.

The long block in your pics looks like it would work, but I'm not so sure it would fix the knocking noise you have, because it doesn't sound like your noise is coming from the longblock to me.

 

[adsm08]

The long block in your pics looks like it would work, but I'm not so sure it would fix the knocking noise you have, because it doesn't sound like your noise is coming from the longblock to me.

She pictured a short block. If you read the text on the second pane (if you can read it) it even says short block.

If you are going to go to the trouble on replacing the engine over this noise you want to do a long block. I think you noise is in the top end if it is a base engine noise at all. Bottom end noises have a deeper tone to them, more like a bass drum. You noise sounds more like a snare, that means it is up higher, farther from the crankshaft.


A short block is a rotating assembly, block, crank, rods and pistons, and rings. It may or may not have an oil pump.


A long block is all that and heads. Depending on who you get it from it may have other things on it as well like front cover, valve covers and oil pan. Ford ones come that way. Jasper just gives you a gasket kit.



Ariel, for the record, if you want to post screen caps from another web site, pull up the page you want to post, and then hit ctrl and print screen, then go paste in paint and put that file on photobucket instead of trying to take a photograph of the screen. You will get much better results.

 

[Kowboy]

Seems that there is an agreement between us that the engine may well be salvageable. From the video, it could possibly even be the fan hitting something. Since this is not the original motor born w/ the truck, there could very well be something that has started to come loose. It may only need a wrench put on it to fix it. I am sure that it will eventually rear it's ugly head and the problem will become known. If that happens, I can only hope, it will not take something out with it. I will look at the video again.

Alright; I listened to the video again and wished that I could have listened to it idle longer. The noise sounds, in my opinion, to be what is coming from a part, that is not oiled. Seems more like two parts colliding or scuffing. I wonder did the same mechanics install the motor that is now in the truck? I also agree that the leak could very well be coming from the exhaust manifold.

 

[RonD]

Sorry the pictures are crappy. Here is one engine I thought would be a good one to get if I can't figure out the problem with my truck.

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That is too much for a short block, and "new" in this application is not what you want.
new = never tested, and I would assume it has been sitting, hopefully wrapped but who knows, for awhile.
And you want a long block not a short block if the ticking is a concern, long block includes the valve train, short block does not.

You want a rebuilt/remanufactured LONG block

 

[Rearanger]

If you have access to the right equipment exhaust leaks can be really easy to find.

Needed items are:

Tail-pipe adapter:
Regulator:

Those "cones" are about $40. Or you could do this DIY with OTC plumbing parts:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...st-Leak-and-Boost-Leak-Tester-(simple-no-glue)

Keep pressure low.