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nlarr81

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Messages
96
City
fl
Vehicle Year
1999
Transmission
Automatic
i have a 99 ranger with a 3.0 auto 4x4...the truck started running bad(shaking,no power,back fire)so i changed the plugs and wires...anf the cam senser....now the truck runs good when it has no load but when i turn the lights on,or the heat, or put it in gear it gets a shake and sputter...its not bad but its not right......
Also when the tranny shifts up and the rpm's drop it gets a bucking ....if i lift and get back into it, its gone ...or when it bucks i can pedal throw it and it goes away ....but if i leave my foot stedy it gets bad....
can anyone help me?
PS
after i replaced the cam senser and reset the comp ....the check engine light is off ....so no codes to read
 
What were the codes before you reset them? I'm thinking along the lines of a sticky EGR valve but it should throw a code for that one. Did you use factory tune-up parts? Also, last time the fuel filter was changed? If this was old school before electronics/sensors/electronic ignition I would say bad coil, cracked dist cap or other electrical so check connections and look for anything burned along the electrical stuff. Its a long shot, but check for a clogged cat as well. And even longer shot, check fuel pressure...
 
the code was for the cam senser...i justed boush plugs and wires.....i have not changed the fuel filter yet but it will get done today....i have good flow at the exhaust tip....i drive it last night to see if it would throw a new code .....but didnt get one......i'v been throw the electrical system ......but it does seem to be worse with the lights on and the heat.....
The other thing i saw when i was looking around it the a/c clutch is engaging with the heat on.....not the defrost but the heat......im not sure if its related or not (i dont thing it is)
......if it was the coil it would give me a code.....RIGHT??
 
does the pick-up in the gas tank have a filter on it? my 1st gen did and that was the culprit. found it after replacing the fuel pump, fuel filter at the carb x2, and blowing out the lines. couldn't find a replacement, so just cut it off and added another inline fuel filter. no problems since.
just a thought.
 
Those bosch plugs aren't anywhere close to the quality of motorcraft, but being new I wouldn't think it would be an issue-yet. But in the future consider using factory parts, cost less in the long run. You can test the cat by hooking up a vacuum gauge and running fast idle for several minutes. If the vacuum drops at the same RPM it is starting to clog but I really don't think that is the problem anyway, seems electrical to me with the backfiring, etc. Check your grounds and battery cables too, sounds like the PCM or coil is starving for power since it is worse with the heater on. The A/C does run on a lot of the heat settings too, I can't remember which ones- I think the one for floor heat and vent are the only two that it doesn't run on. I've always thought the HVAC system was stupid in this regard. And the engine codes take forever to pop in a new one- I think you have to do 3 20 minute drive cycles or something, seems like you run out of gas long before the damn light comes back on! And the coil would not throw a code- you might get a multi-cylinder misfire (P0300) or something but not a "coil bad" code or anything. I would suspect that coil or connections to it but it would be nice to test it first instead of just replace it. Gets expensive to throw parts at stuff guessing... but intermittent coils are hard to test.
 
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