help

[oolbreeze]

pk I am out of ideas. No codes being picked up. Truck shakes and sputters at idle and stalls while driving and magoes from loping to gargling when put into gear. I have changed the fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor mass airflow sen, coolant temp sens, warm air sens, idle control and still nothing. I do not know what else to do. The fuel pump comes on the regulator is good all relays are right.

It has to be something with air or fuel it runs so rich I have almost passed out while outside running with windows down. seriously what else is there I dont want to keep throwing money at it I mean hell I have to get the ac tubes and manifold made and the vacuum solenuids are no longer sold.

It is like the first generation vulcan was a wraith only rumored to have existed and its haunting me HELP

 

[Slammin Sam]

Please post details on what you are driving, engine, year, miles, tranny, etc.

 

[RonD]

Yes, +1 ^^^

I assume it is a Ford Ranger and you mention "Vulcan" so a 3.0l, but what year?

And STOP replacing sensors and controls, they rarely fail, 90% of sensors replaced by DIYers were working fine.

Running rich can be a few things.
Could have a shorted Ground wire for fuel injectors, or just a leaking injector, DO NOT REPLACE INJECTORS!!!!!!!
Test for it first

 

[pjtoledo]

you didn't mention the year,,,


IF its a flex-fuel 3.0 those are the symptoms of a failed alcohol content sensor.
that reading can be checked to verify failure.

of course, many other things are also possible.

 

[oolbreeze]

Trust me would not touch injectors and part of the reason I took the truck is to learn and learning the sensors and what they do has helped. it was actually running great for a week or so. but I no it has some sort of vacuum leaks, and the only other sensor cause the symptoms is in. 1991 ford ranger custom 3.0 v6. the injectors seem fine it is whatever controls the firing that is the trouble because every so often you hear it misfire for a bit like a machine gun under the hood.

 

[oolbreeze]

and all replaced sensors had a code on the obd1 tester before I shanged them except for this last one.

 

[oolbreeze]

milage I dont know if average I guess it would be upward 300 k or just below

 

[RonD]

Code definition that mentions a sensor means that sensor is GOOD, or it wouldn't set a code because no sensor to detect a problem.

So read those definitions with a grain of salt
If it says "REPLACE MAF SENSOR AT ALL COSTS, OR YOU AND YOUR TRUCK WILL DIE, DIE, DIE!!!!!"
That would just be a firm "maybe" to have a look at the MAF sensor and test its voltage.

Voltage low on O2 sensor means just that.......voltage is low, sensor is working or you wouldn't know about the low voltage

 

[oolbreeze]

what happens if the PCM is missing one prong? I know it still seems to work fine but it is still in fact missing one prong. Also how come after my codes are finished with engine running I can not get that cylinder balance test to work by pressing the gas.

 

[RonD]

Depends on what pin it is, look here: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

If there are no current codes then it should go to balance test if you press gas pedal to the floor and release.
read here: http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/eecivtest-balance.html

It could be your throttle cable has stretched and you no longer get WOT(wide open throttle) voltage at computer.
Engine off
Press gas pedal to the floor and hold it down with a weight or "stick against the seat"
Open hood and see if you can manually open the throttle more, if you can then you need to do the throttle cable mod

Google: Ranger throttle cable mod

It is simple to do

EDIT:

Oops, your 1991 3.0l will be Batch Fire fuel injection, not sequential fuel injection so computer can't do balance test, that is only available with sequential injection computers