• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Help with this "great deal"


bw619

New Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Messages
4
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
Just traded a 4x8 lawnmower trailer for a father/son project 91 ranger xlt. 2.3l, 5 speed. Body in decent shape as well as interior. 64K miles - supposedly. Here's what's gone wrong so far. First, the oil filter felt like it was welded on. Took three different people and 3 different filter wrenches to get it off. Next, after changing the oil, started and drove @ 12 miles home - ran fine. Next day would not shift into gear with engine running. Had to replace clutch after bench bleeding didn't fix it. The day after replacing clutch put a bottle of octane booster in a full tank of gas and drove it @ 15 miles before going through emmissions check. While in line I noticed the temp gauge started to creep over to hot (not from ideling in line). Couldn't pull out of line so went thru and it passed. I immediately took it about a block and turned it off and let it cool down for 30 minutes. Rad never boiled over. Drove it about a mile home and let it sit for a couple of hours. Started it and put 1 gal of antifreeze in. When I turned on the heater it began to smoke out of the tail pipe and from in front of the cat. Now I'm thinking blown headgasket or cracked block. didn't mess with it for @ 2 weeks.

Changed the plugs yesterday and the second plug on the driver's side-yeah that one- had wet threads and a lot of old crud around the base. Still smoking and running rough.

Sorry for the long post but finally here are my questions: 1) Could a clogged cat cause these types of problems, 2) If it is a cracked block I'd like to swap the motor out with something you don't need elf hands and a bag full of cuss words just to change the plugs. What other years and sizes are a direct bolt in with the 91 2.3l Ranger. This is our first Ranger and this site has already provided a ton of useful info. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
While I don't have your problems, I can say the guys on this site have been very helpful. Stick around and I'm sure they will get going with you.
 
What color smoke is it (white, blue, black?). White is coolant is being burnt meaning blown head gasket, cracked head, etc... Blue is burning oil means bad valve glides, bad rings. Black is burning to much fuel. And ya your right about the elf hands to change the two rear plugs on the motor. Ive heard is best to get those out from under the truck.
 
Yea Ianthegreat there seems to be some great people here with lots of Ranger know how.

Dangerranger, the smoke is white which is why I was thinking head gasket but the oil is still clean. Maybe cracked head? Started it today and drove around the block. Still smoking and big loss in power. Guess my great deal is going to cost me a rebuild or junkyard replacement.

Anyone know if later model 2.3 or 3.0l will fit without a lot of wiring/computer/tranny hookup issues. There's a 96 2.3l on CL for $490 or best offer that supposedly has @ 96K miles and runs good. Thanks.
 
your easiest swap is going to be swapping the long block from a '89 to '94 ranger, just use your current sensors and wiring harness, they are easy to remove, on the newer end of that range you will want to use your EGR tube because they had a different sensor thing to watch the flow through it where yours just has a sensor.

my guess would be a blown head gasket or cracked head or block, it's just coolant getting into the combustion chamber somehow, could be behind a valve if the compression isn't leaking into the cooling system.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies and help. Think I'll try and flush the cooling system and try some head gasket sealant. May just be snakeoil but it's worth trying a $6.00 fix to buy some time before replacing the engine.

One last question. Has anyone heard of an octane booster causing these 2.3l engines to run too hot? A mechanic was telling me it does in some of the rice burners but I had not heard that before. If so that could explain a lot. Thanks.
 
Removing the head on these engines is a piece of cake in most cases...you could have it off, check for blown gasket, replace gasket (you need to do that once you remove the head) and back together in less than 4 hours if you've turned a wrench before.

Worst case is you may need to replace something...even the whole engine...but then you will know you have a great truck that will last you many years with the right maintenance and care...

Best case senario is that the head gasket blew out between #3 and 4 or 2 and 3 cylinders and just needs to be replaced...

If you decide to pull the head it might be a good idea to have one rebuilt or get a used one with low miles...then drop it on with a new gasket...and have a good look at the piston tops and the cylinder walls...look for chipsb or holes in the pistons and scoring on the walls...if it looks good and the pistons don't flop back and forth in the hole then it may be OK...
 
Honestly, I wouldn't even bother trying to rebuild a head. You can pull the current one and reuse it if it's just a gasket. If not, just grab a used running 2.3 and throw it in there. You can get a running motor for about the same amount of money as machine work and gaskets.
 
How about just trying a compression test? It shouldtell you if you really are having compression problems.
 
It's ether a cracked head (usually between the valve seats), or a head gasket starting to let go.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top