Help with my bulid..

[jarfly]

I got an 87 bronco 2 I am planeing on throwing back togeather. We bought it for the engine. So I am goin to rebulid a 2.3t or a 289. I know how to do the engine swap.
I can get an 89 4x4 f150 cheap. Is there any way to use full size ttb?
I will be runnin proble a 33" tire. I kno some say use a 35 but I dont have the cash to pick one up un less I could find a plore w/ engine for cheap I would run a 4.0 than.

 

[D'cheat]

There is really no easy way to run a fullsize TTB under our rigs. It has been done. But it required gobs of fabrication and in the end, did not work that well. Keep the fullsize 8.8" rear axle, and find yourself a fullsize dana 44. A SAS will be more affective, and simpler to do.

 

[Sunk]

You have to move one of the pivots or mod one of the beams. In the end you have the same size u-joints as the D35 which seem to be the weak point anyway.

 

[jarfly]

yea if its goin to be that much work. Ill go with a dana 44. I jus want that wide stance. I do a lot of mud boggin and not so much rock crawling. (no rocks to crawl on around me)

 

[CopyKat]

There is really no easy way to run a fullsize TTB under our rigs. It has been done. But it required gobs of fabrication and in the end, did not work that well. Keep the fullsize 8.8" rear axle, and find yourself a fullsize dana 44. A SAS will be more affective, and simpler to do.

Hey now there is a truck I haven't seen in a long time. Pegalis was it back in the day?

 

[Ranger44]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTBconversion.htm

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTB.htm

 

[4x4junkie]

There is really no easy way to run a fullsize TTB under our rigs. It has been done. But it required gobs of fabrication and in the end, did not work that well. Keep the fullsize 8.8" rear axle, and find yourself a fullsize dana 44. A SAS will be more affective, and simpler to do.

Actually, its about the same or probably even LESS work than the SAS.

You can bolt the TTB D44 in one of three ways:
1. Widen the beams at the pivots one inch each side (IMO, best method)

2. Modify your brackets by drilling a hole 1" inboard of the existing holes (this provided each bracket is wide enough to take another hole)

3. Bolt the beams in as is, and shorten the passengerside shaft about 1.5". This method will result is a small narrowing of the track width.

(the above is to accommodate the difference in pivot bracket spacing between the fullsize and RBV TTBs)

Radius arm bracket mods will be needed if you're running it fullwidth, and you may need to space the coil buckets off the frame an inch or so as well. I believe the stock F-150 steering linkage can be used, too.