Help with my 302.

[jarfly]

So after 3 short mouths with my 3.0 in my 97 with 33's im very un happy with it. No power for nothing and still fighting to get it runing 100% right, well im dont with it, got a guy comeing to buy the 3.0 runing gear.

So I got a 89 f150 for doner parts, 302/auto/manual t case.

So am I right all I need to do is get a intake/carb and slap on it (I want carb trying to make this truck simple to work on)
and the dizzy/coil etc from a older model 302?
Will the manifolds I have now work? Im goin to get headers later on but trying to get this up and going.

 

[89Ranger5.0]

Need to figure out fuel system, I just ran a Carter in line electric pump with a self regulator. The manifolds you have will absolutely work. You will also need an ignition system. Cheap fix is 100 from anywhere msd streetfire box with built in rev limiter. It uses same comp bord as a 6al just doesn't have plug in moduels or msd contingency plan. With a parts truck you should have most what you need.

 

[Gotta_gofast]

Most all 3.0Ls came with the 7.5 rear which I don't trust behind a v8. After you do the swap I'd look into an 8.8 rear (or have the F150 rear narrowed). If you have a D28 TTB I'd at least swap to the D35 for now or swap both F150s front/rear axles for better strength. The 3.0L radiator is most likely too small for the V8. I do not know if the F150 will fit, but there are sources out there for the V8 swap. Pick up an oil filter relocation kit (with the filter bypass fittings at 90 degrees, not straight out). You may also find there is not enough room for the accessories. I used all the accessories and brackets from a 5.0L explorer. Chances are you can use the F150 drive shafts and have a shop shorten them if needed (or shorten yourself if you can weld).

For a carburetor, a simple Holley 500cfm 4 barrel would be plenty to feed that motor. Since you will have the motor out anyway, at minimum I would throw in a few hundred toward oil pan, valve cover, water pump, and head gaskets, main and rod bearings, oil pump, timing chain set, and rings if compression is a little low. There might be some sludge in the engine, clean up everything real good. Strip the outside and paint it all. Simple things like this allow you to inspect the inside for abnormal wear and give you the confidence of driving a reliable motor (plus if its pretty it looks nicer).

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you want simple for the ignition your local parts store has them.http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBF-FORD-28...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfafec78f

 

[deathbypsi]

When converting a EFI 5.0 to carb you will need to know if your motor has a flat tapet cam or roller cam. They use different distributor gears.

If your motor has a factory roller cam go to a parts store and get a distributor for a 1985 Mustang GT 5.0 5SPEED. That will have the correct steel gear to match the roller cam.

If its a flat tappet cam pick one up for a 84 or OLDER 5.0 Mustang as those have a cast iron gear that match the flat tappet cams.

DO NOT mix them up!

Either convert the front of motor to Explorer 5.0 or 94-95 5.0 T-bird/mustang pumps,brackets,pullies or plan to move radiator forward to get clearance. I used all Foxbody stuff on mine and just made a new core support to move rad forward since my core was rotted out along the bottom anyway,

 

[89Ranger5.0]

f150 rad wont work, go aftermarket like a advanced adapter one, or explorer super cooling depending on motor location, and as far as axles gottago_fast is spot on.

 

[v8nick]

3.0 radiator will be just fine. That's what's in my truck. My 5.0 never runs hot, but its got a big pusher fan on it.

 

[deathbypsi]

I use a Autozone H.D. rad for a 91 Explorer in my 90 B2 with a Escort ZX2 fan. No isssues.

 

[jarfly]

Not worried about the rears. I have the 8.8 and 35, and I have a 4.0 rad in it all ready. And as far as tareing downt he engine for head gaskets and all that, no thanks it runs good, low millage. Dont see the need in this(yes im the type of guy to run something till it thros its guts out).

Main worries is the dizzy and all that. how do I tell what cam I have?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Look at the cam gear on the dizzy you pull out of the engine if the ends of the gear are rough cast it is a iron cam if the cam gear is smooth machined surface it is steel.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It will also have a piece of tin in the lifter valley to keep the lifters from turning.

 

[Psychopete]

Either convert the front of motor to Explorer 5.0 or 94-95 5.0 T-bird/mustang pumps,brackets,pullies or plan to move radiator forward to get clearance. I used all Foxbody stuff on mine and just made a new core support to move rad forward since my core was rotted out along the bottom anyway,

For what it's worth 94-95 applied to the Mustangs as far as a short front end dress. 93 was the last year for the 5.0L HO in the T-bird, and that did have a short front end dress. Not sure how far they go back, at least 91, but I've heard '88 (edit: as far as t-birds).

 

[baddad457]

Not worried about the rears. I have the 8.8 and 35, and I have a 4.0 rad in it all ready. And as far as tareing downt he engine for head gaskets and all that, no thanks it runs good, low millage. Dont see the need in this(yes im the type of guy to run something till it thros its guts out).

Main worries is the dizzy and all that. how do I tell what cam I have?

If you haven't pulled the intake, pull one pushrod. Roller 5.0 pushrods are 6.25" long. Flat tappet rods are a half inch longer.

 

[89Ranger5.0]

As far the cam its hydro flat tappet. My bro has an 89 5.0 f150 and that's what it had would assume it's the same. Worth a check tho

 

[Gotta_gofast]

89 blocks where cast with the ability to run roller camshafts but ford installed flat tappet camshafts and valvtrain. If it is a stock 89 truck engine expect flat tappet lifters.