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Help with head or block crack


Beef52751

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
1,756
Age
35
City
Eastern Iowa
Vehicle Year
86
Transmission
Manual
I got antifreeze in my oil so i did a compression check, one cylinder was 30 PSI low, so i tore the head off and the gasket is fine, i cant see a crack anywhere...any ideas on how to check????
Thanks
Beef
 
Take it to a machine shop, they will be able to pressure test the head for cracks, and check for any signs of warping. Every time a head gasket job is done at the shop, the head is sent out for inspection, its a good investment IMO. It can save a lot of headaches and problems down the road.
 
ok...any othe suggestions to check it before i have to send it off???
Thanks
Beef
 
Nope. Just send it off...

Edit- you said "head" not heads. I notice you have a 3.0. Take BOTH heads off, the other side could be the one messed up.
 
You only pressure test aluminum heads.

Cast iron heads can be tested magnetically. It's a more sensitive test.

A machine shop can do it. It's VERY much worth it to do BOTH heads, as conditions that crack one very often crack the other, too.

And bring in the head gaskets as well. The machine shop can help you inspect them.
 
If you are in a crunch and strapped for cash, and not really worried about the long range effects, then goto A.Z. and buy a bottle of the Blue stuff (can't remember the name, they will know what you are after). Put that in like the directions says. Save your money and do both heads, can not do one head without doing the other. Will probably be around $125+ a head to shave and Magnaflux them. You still need to buy Gaskets and install and replace the oil,filter and Antifreeze. $$$$ that bottle costs (I think) ~$20.

Do not use this bottle as a permanent fix though :fie:, and if someone tells you to use "Liquid Glass" stay away from that as well. It you have a crack and it mixes into your oil, you will be replacing lifters and a oil pump as well.
 
You only pressure test aluminum heads.
Not true. You can pressure test all heads. Magnafluxing is good, but does not always show all leakage or cracking. shady
 
Do NOT try block sealer or anything of the sort. It will NOT seal a head crack, and then you'll end up having to sand it off the deck when you do remove the heads to do it right.
 
Better living through chemistry does not work. Fix it right the first time. Unfortunately owning vehicles cost money. Using the short cut will cost you more money in the long run. The only chemical fix you should use on your truck is armor all. Everything else is a band aid.
 
That is why I said if he is not worried about the long term effects and not to use as a permanet fix. Good enough for a cheap Band-Aid. I have never had any problems with sealers. I have used "Liquid Glass" before as well and never really had much trouble with that, except for the extra sanding\scraping.

If money is tight, and you are in a pinch, easy cheap band-aids work.
 
the product u are referring to is called blue devil.....and despite popular belief....the shit really does work i would buy cars that needed headgasket work, but ran, use them in it, and were able to sell them with no issues at all, and i never recieved a single call even after some drove the vehicles 40k miles plus. the stuff really does work.

the oldest car ive sold that i know for a fact is still runnin around with no issues is a thunderturd with the notorious 3.8 the young army guy that bought it has put close to 80k miles on the car since it was sold to him in early 03.......

is it the right way todo it.....no, can it get the job done, yes....

oh....and the bluedevil product can seal a head crack aslong as its in a coolant passage....
 
This is from http://198.173.64.150/blog/blue-devil-engine-and-cooling-sealant-32-oz.html

"The Blue Devil Engine and Cooling Sealant has the remarkable ability to repair and seal leaks in freeze plugs, leaking radiators and heater cores, cracked or warped heads and fix most blown head gasket by forming a permanently seal. The Blue Devil Engine and Cooling Sealant will also work on internal gasket leaks, where small amounts of coolant seep into the engine oil. Contains no solid or particulate matter. It is non-clogging and will not harm your engine. Bonds to metal, aluminum, cast, alloy or plastic. Is safe and easy to use. Works on cars, trucks, vans and SUV’s with gasoline or diesel engines. Independent laboratory tests and confirm Blue Devil is the only sealer known to form a permanent seal and does not rely on particles, temporarily plugging leaks.

Permanently Seals:

* Blown Head Gaskets
* Leaking Radiators
* Warped & Cracked Heads
* Leaking Heater Cores
* Engine Block Leaks
* Leaking Freeze Plugs"
 
Well, since he already has it apart, might as well fix it right.
 
K&W also works very well if you do it correctly.
Mix in a gallon of hot water.

Get the engine hot, drain enough coolant to accept the gallon mixture.

Pour the mixture in the coolant, and run the engine to circulate the mixture throughout the block.

Shut off the engine, and pull the sparkplugs.

Let it sit overnight.

Like all liquid fixes, it is temporary, but we sometimes do not have the funds to do a permanent fix. It will get you by for a while.

K&W uses silicone silicate as the main ingredient. We used to buy this stuff from the drug store (egg preserver), and mix it with flax seed. It will seal a big block crack. I learned about it while working in Kansas many years ago. It was used to repair cracked tractor blocks.

I'm sure there are others that work just as well. I only have experience with this one. Sealants, like everything else, evolve over time into useful tools that work well. shady
 

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