Help with ECT and Temp sender problem!

[davemayn13]

Hi guys! First time here on the forums, I've done a lot of looking but no posting. Now I've got an issue and maybe somebody can help me out.

I've got a 1992 Ranger with a 2.3 and a manual tranny. Here's the problem. My check engine light is on. On the non running test it keeps throwing a 118 code, which according to the codes is an ECT high or open. My temp gauge is unresponsive and does not move as it warms up. I replaced the thermostat and the ECT sensor. It kept throwing the code on me. I pinched the upper hose when started and it wasn't pumping coolant cold, but did open up as it warmed up. I grounded the temp sender wire and found the gauge went all the way to hot. I'm now assuming that the temp sender is bad, but would that cause it to throw an ECT code? Anybody else had this problem?


Dave

 

[Bryan22]

Is the ECT code in memory from before you replaced it, or is it a current code? I seriously doubt a bad sending unit would throw a code. Are you having drivability problems? You might try clearing the codes and see if it comes back.

 

[davemayn13]

The code was in memory, however when I cleared it via the jumper wire (disconnecting wire while giving codes back) and started it up again, the engine light came on again and I got the same code back. There are no drivability issues, the truck runs great, has power, no problems that I've noticed.

I don't have a reader, I've been using the jumper method to read all my codes. Am I not clearing them out right? I've also just disconnected the battery to clear the codes (waiting between 20 and 30 min before reconnecting.)

Dave

 

[Bryan22]

No, you're right. If the check engine light is coming on, that means you've still got the same problem. I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but you know the temp sender is the one wire sensor in the drivers side of the block right? Just want to make sure you're not confusing the sender for the ECT.

 

[davemayn13]

No i've gotcha no worries. The fact that my temp gauge wasn't moving made me think that maybe they're in tandem or have something going on together, but the coolant is definitely warming up. Figured that I needed to get the temp sender replaced at some point since I was getting no reading at all. I'm trying to figure out what the hells the problem if it keeps throwing the same code with new parts.

 

[davemayn13]

My ect junction is definitely getting warm and like I said I put a new sensor in there. Is there another ground for it somewhere that I'm missing? I assume the high reading means that it's not grounded out, but I figured if it were a grounding issues I'd have more than just that problem.

 

[Bryan22]

im looking at my book and it shows a code 118 means "ECT above maximum voltage/indicates below -40 degrees F" maybe a wiring problem, but i really doubt it's related to the sender.

 

[Bryan22]

Maybe you just got a bad ECT right out of the box. Take the ect out of the truck and test it inside your house in a cold and hot cup of water and take the readings with a multi meter.

 

[davemayn13]

I'm in Reno so it's not exactly warm, but certainly not -40 lol. If it were reading low, would the light go off when it reached a suitable temp?

 

[Bryan22]

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528018ed9e Theres instructions on testing the ECT, make sure it's good.

 

[jdm90]

Sorry,what does ECT stand for?

 

[jdm90]

Sorry, engine coolant temperature. Dohh!

 

[davemayn13]

Problem solved

So I did finally solve the problem. First and foremost, I had a busted wire close to the firewall, that was causing no resistance from the senor. Also, the heater core was plugged up, and was not circulating. I fixed the connection and drove it 450 miles on the freeway. The engine ran cold still, but the check engine light was off. I also found that after the drive, I replaced the heater core and the engine temps became normal, and I didn't have any further problems. Thanks for your input guys!