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Help with 3.0 "race" engine


offroadranger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2007
Messages
130
Age
97
Transmission
Automatic
Hey guys -

Some of you may remember my '99 ranger desert race truck. I was running a mildly built 2.5l 4 cylinder. Now I have come across a '99 3.0 w/ 100k miles for next to nothing. So heres what I want to do, any tips on how to accomplish this as cheap and smoothly as possible would be very welcomed!


Tear down, have head resurfaced and valve job, deck the block - easy

I'll port the head - no problem

Camshaft/lifters/springs - ???

headers - jba? I want a qaulity header that will last a long time

injectors - are they sufficeint? cant remember if they are 14 or 19lb stock?

maf - ?

After these are done I will get it dyno tuned - can you reccomend anyone in socal?



Now my main question regards the computer. This engine/computer is coming out of a 99 ranger auto. Im going to bolt up a manual trans. Will this be ok? Is it going to "trip out" the computer?

Also this is going into an off road race truck so I would like to eliminate EVERYTHING that is not necessary i.e. smog equip and most importantly WIRING. WHAT WIRES ARE NEEDED TO MAKE THE ENGINE RUN PROPERLY? Thats ALL I want hooked up. (and gauges of course, but thats easy)

Thanks! I'm going to get pictures of what I have going on shortly.
 
For headers I'd get JBA (that is if I had the money)

You can also run the mustang 5.0 roller rockers on 3.0's.

You'll fine running the auto harness and pcm with a manual tranny. The other way around wouldn't work so well.

Most of the wiring is needed to run SFI. There may be a few things here and there you can eliminate.
 
OK good start. Thanks for the help.

5.0 rollers eh? Nice. But are we talking stock rockers? With what cam/spring/lifter combo?

Ive heard of people getting down to about 5 wires to run thier 4.0's.....? That factory harness is rediculous lol.
 
What sanctioning body do you race under and what class? I don't want to recommend anything that will disqualify you from the race, or put you into a higher end class you will get wrecked in
 
What sanctioning body do you race under and what class? I don't want to recommend anything that will disqualify you from the race, or put you into a higher end class you will get wrecked in

I race in MDR, SNORE and a few other series in class 1450. The engine is unlimited, Im racing against everything from 4 cylinders to V8's. The only rule is you must retain a steel cab and working doors. I did well with the old 4 banger. It basically comes down to reliability as the #1 factor but a few extra ponies never hurt.

heres the truck
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y161/dezertdude/DSC_1087_copy.jpg
 
OK so Im definitly gonna go with JBA headers(ouch, pricey, but worth it, Ive had bad luck with cheapy headers) and the roller rockers. (1.6 or 1.7 with a aftermarket cam?)

- what cam/springs etc? I admitedly do not know enough about engines to choose the correct or appropriate lift/duration. I can install it no problem, but its like reading greek when it comes to selection.

- maf/injectors? is stock adeqaute for what Im doing? I see morana offers a 60mm and a 65mm for $250 is the 65mm a worthy upgrade?
 
stock MAF is a 65mm i believe. And unless you are running a turbo/supercharger (not allowed by regulations) it flows more air than the engine will be able to use.

stock injectors are 14lb i believe. Going with a 17 or 19 will give better performance, but only with all the rest of the mods first and a proper tuning. Otherwise, it will run pretty rich

can't comment on cam/springs as I have no idea

High compression forged pistons are another thing to look into if you haven't already.
 
ok I have a set of 19lb injectors I can put in out of a 302

pistons - I really dont want to rip into the bottom end at this point. 1. cause its only got 100k miles and why not run it. 2. what I got going is more then enough $$$ for me to spend.(still have to pay those entry fees and gas lol) but I appreciate the input.

so I guess all thats left is what to do valvetrain wise...........
 
you dont have a lot of options as far as valvetrane goes. stock springs are ok. noone makes a cam for the 3.0...your only option is to have your cam reground (most machine shops can do this, and the machinist can recommend lift and duration times for your application).

if you get a good tuner, you can eliminate almost all of the emission components from the engine, luckily, the 3.0 isnt a heavily emissioned motor. plus you'll need it to make those 19lb injectors work and time the engine. if this motor has the heated throttle body, plug the lines.
 
crower cams in san diego reground my cam a little hotter, and they have extensive desert race experience in rangers, at least by the newspaper clippings on the wall in the customer service area. also, look at the mods on the rogueperformance.com website.

JR
 
just regrinds, like i said. id check a local machine shops prices before ordering those (though, u could use those specs as a starting point).

i see tom morana offers a 65mm tb though for only 250 bones....that'd be a worthwhile upgrade from the pitiful 50mm stocker.

man how id love to buy one of those strokers for my truck. what a sweet base for a big turbo build. ill bet that bottom end would take 500hp without breaking a sweat.
 
just regrinds, like i said. id check a local machine shops prices before ordering those (though, u could use those specs as a starting point).

i see tom morana offers a 65mm tb though for only 250 bones....that'd be a worthwhile upgrade from the pitiful 50mm stocker.


Sweet. Thank you very much!
 
are you limited in the fuel u use? can u use ethanol. if so, a properly built motor made for E85 can out perform a gasoline engine every time, and even get better mileage/reliability.



forged pistons like mentioned before, smaller chamber heads and copper head gaskets. also mentioned before a good tuner to get the advance/fuel/timing issues in order.

then it's just :3gears:
 

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