help setting up carb....???

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool when it stops pinging lock it in and drive it at med to high speed and check for ping by flooring it, once you establish the max advance then you can dial in the carb. Kinna scary at first timing that way but from all I have read it is the proper way to get the most HP out of your engine and running slightly on the rich side protects the pistons and valves from getting too hot the only thing that cools them is the fuel vapor going thru.

 

[ford1386]

Just hope I don't bend a rod...but I'll try it tonight

 

[ford1386]

Well I thought I was around 20-21 degrees but I put a few more white paint marks on the balancer and I was at 30 degrees,yikes. So I tried 25 degrees and it pinged just a little once in a while. So now I'm at 23 degrees base timing with no pinging and no more hesitation, is this safe I mean its not pinging and runs almost perfect?

I even drove up hill slow in 4th gear and the motor was pulling down under 1k and when I got to the crest of the hill it pulled out of it with no hesitation

So is 23 degrees of base timing safe? And what should be my next step,jets maybe?

 

[ford1386]

Well I thought I was around 20-21 degrees but I put a few more white paint marks on the balancer and I was at 30 degrees,yikes. So I tried 25 degrees and it pinged just a little once in a while. So now I'm at 23 degrees base timing with no pinging and no more hesitation, is this safe I mean its not pinging and runs almost perfect?

I even drove up hill slow in 4th gear and the motor was pulling down under 1k and when I got to the crest of the hill it pulled out of it with no hesitation

So is 23 degrees of base timing safe? And what should be my next step,jets maybe?

 

[baddad457]

I forget now, do you have vacuum advance ? 23 sounds like your balancer ring has slipped. What octane fuel are you running ?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

No I think your fine where it is how does it do off idle now as far as hesitation. Is your idle between 750 and 800 rpm. Adjusting the idle air screws is always best with a vacuum guage but real close to rpm you should have between 17 and 20hg in vacuum at an idle and good throttle responce. Different jets might require you to tweak the timing but now you have done it you will lose upper end hp if it is too far advanced and throttle responce on the lower end if your to far retarded. You can check TDC by sticking a thin screwdriver in the #1 cylinder and turn the crank by hand when it reaches top turn it both ways while your watching the marks just as you feel it drop in both directions and split the difference it wont be exact but it is real close to true TDC and you can judge advance from that point. If it is running good tho I think your making progress.

 

[ford1386]

I forget now, do you have vacuum advance ? 23 sounds like your balancer ring has slipped. What octane fuel are you running ?

No I have an msd pro billet distributor with mechanical advance springs. And I am running 87 octane fuel

 

[ford1386]

When we rebuilt the motor I remember that the balancer was right on with tdc. And I'm gonna set idle air screws with vacuum gauge I just turn them till I get highest vacuum right? And if I put new plugs in 2 cylinders how do I go about checking for color and how long does it take to color them?

And I now have no hesitation off idle with 23 degrees base timing, and I have a hesitation with 21 degrees and it pings at 25 so I think im right where I should be till I change jets

 

[baddad457]

What's the rest of your build as far as the motor goes ? Depending on the comp ratio and cam, you might need a higher octane fuel.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

That is correct on the idle air fuel screws after you get the highest vacuum with both of them, adjust the idle speed where you want it. do that a few times till it dont move any more, stop the engine and count the turns on them first in then back out there should be no more than 1/2 a turn difference between them. In case you dont know never tighten the air fuel needles just take them in to the lightly seated position then back out the same amount of turns so you dont lose that adjustment. You should be alright with 87 octane, I like to tune for the cheap stuff then give my engine a treat every once in a while with high octane. Ok after you have it dialed in timing, jets and idle air you can now play with the squirters for the best throttle responce. So if your damper is correct your not looking so much at the base timing as in total timing for your dizzy. As long as your around 37 DBTDC at max advance 3500 to 4000 rpm you should be just fine I am guessing you have a 15 degree curve on that dizzy If your base is 23 add 15 equals 38 sounds good to me.

 

[ford1386]

What's the rest of your build as far as the motor goes ? Depending on the comp ratio and cam, you might need a higher octane fuel.

Its just bored .030, heads were shaved enough to resurface them but other than that the motor is a stock 302 ho

 

[kimcrwbr1]

You got me wondering if the MSD dizzy would work with my duraspark setup how many wires are coming from your dizzy. I just wonder if the electronic dizzy will work as you have total control over the curve from base timing to max advance but one like yours sounds good too. Just being under employed what I have now works just fine to get from point to piont.

 

[ford1386]

There's only 2 wires coming off distributor that plug into msd 6al ignition

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Hummm I will have to do some research on that maybe just run the ground for the module to the block. Let us know what the total advance is maybe someone can use that as a referance. tks

 

[doorgunner]

One time, a guy who is a member of TRS in a little white car with an engine in it that stuck outta the hood told me......"If it ain't throwin a good spark at the plugs ALL the time....nothin else is gonna matter!"