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help reading plugs


snomaker321

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
740
City
mass
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Automatic
I have a misfire on cylinders 1, 2, and 4. # 2 has been ongoing while the others are more recent.

I pulled a few of my plugs to see if i could get a read and they seem to be giving me more questions than answers.

I pulled #2 plug and there seemed to be quite a bit of carbon, but it wasn't excessive. The insulator was like a medium gray color. I couldn't really figure out what that meant. The ground electrode seemed wet and black. Is just this unburned fuel mixing with the carbon on the plug? The plug smelled like fuel.

I pulled #1 and it had similar carbon buildup. On this plug the insulator was half black/ half white (split vertically). I tried but couldn't find anything similar online.

I pulled #6 to compare them to a cylinder that was "firing correctly" and it was nearly identical to the plug from cylinder #1. Not too sure what to make of this.

I am also have a lean bank 1 code. The plugs had carbon and smelled like fuel which made me think fuel fouling. But if im getting more fuel than im burning, wouldn't it be running rich?

I tried to take some pics with my phone, but they weren't clear enough. If it'll help ill try to take some with my moms camera. Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated
 
check your plug wires for leaks or breaks, and the secondary resistance on the coil, it should be 13 to 15 k-ohms.
 
low fuel pressure possible
it would cause the motor to not fire and make the plugs smell like fuel
i think the carbon is normal
 
check your plug wires for leaks or breaks, and the secondary resistance on the coil, it should be 13 to 15 k-ohms.

wires are new, were replaced with the plugs a few months ago. There is no visible sparking when checked at night. How do i check the secondary resistance on the coil?
 
low fuel pressure possible
it would cause the motor to not fire and make the plugs smell like fuel
i think the carbon is normal

What would cause low pressure? fuel pump? fuel pressure regulator? I just replaced the filter. I wasn't too concerned about the carbon but more about the odd coloring on the insulator. Also if its fuel pressure why would it only misfire on 3 cylinders? thanks
 
fuel pump. it could cause the injectors on those cylinders to not open all the time. it there is not enough pressure the injectors won't open all the way or not at all
i am not a 100% sure but the test valve should be right by the regulator and is a schradder valve
 
I doubt fuel pressure. Injectors are opened electrically not with fuel pressure. Been loosing anti-freeze?
 
i would still check pressure because my 98's pump went out and wasn't generating enough pressure for the fuel to spray it was more like a drop, witch will not combust like mist
it requires at least 40psi in most cars to make a mist but ranger direct injuction is higher(56-72psi + or - 8psi )
injectors are released electronically not opened electronically
there pulse based and speed up pulse depending on the maf input.
everyone i have talked to says that 56-72+or-8 is to high but that is the specs
for the rangers
 
injectors are released electronically not opened electronically

it there is not enough pressure the injectors won't open all the way or not at all

I'm not sure I'm understanding your explanation.

"How Does a fuel injector work?"

"Fuel under pressure is sprayed in a very fine miss from the tip of the injector. To achieve this, a current must flow through the injector. Contrary to popular belief, this is NOT done by sending power to the injector. Fuel injectors are normally fed power whenever the ignition key is on, but the circuit is not completed and therfore the injector is still close. The computer controls the ground side, of the circuit. When the computer provides the injector with a ground, the circuit is completed and current is allowed to flow through the injector. This energizes an electromagnetic coil inside the injector, which pulls a sealing mechanism such as a pintle, ball, or disc away from its seat. This makes it possible for fuel to flow through the injector and into the engine. When the computer removes the electrical ground to the injector, the electromagnetic coil becomes demagnetized and a spring forces the pintle, ball, or disc shut to cut off fuel flow. Even at an engine speed of just 1000 RPM, this is done hundreds of times per minute."

So far from the description of the plugs it appears they are fuel wet, but the lean burn code possibly points to something else. An electical misfire would cause a rich condition in the chamber and I presume a rich code. Surely checking basics (fuel presssure, coil resistance ) is important and so far my suggestion is only a guess.
 
I doubt fuel pressure. Injectors are opened electrically not with fuel pressure. Been loosing anti-freeze?

umm maybe. Losing as in it burning or it leaking out somewhere?

did you run a compression test and is your oil pressure good

Have not run a compression test. I want to but we cant find our compression gauge. Do you think compression could be a problem here?
All i know is that the oil pressure is within the acceptable zone since its a dummy gauge and if it makes a difference im not burning any oil (well maybe a quart every 5000 or so miles but i dont think thats a very big deal)
 
No just eliminating possibilities I do the thing that are free and simple first
 
How/where do I check the coil resistance? I have the multimeter just not sure where the probes go. thanks
 
As in burning it. Of course if it's leaking you'll have to fix that first. Are numbers 1,2,4 on the same side of the engine?

I am a little low on coolant but i havent really noticed any white smoke out of the exhaust which i know means your burning coolant but maybe its just burning enough for me to notice.

1 and 2 are on the same side, 4 is across from 1 IIRC.

I ended up just bringing it to a shop to have them diagnose my problem. Ill pay for them to check it out and then depending on whats wrong either fix it or pay them to do it.
 

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