help PLEASE

[bxcornw87]

i have a 2003 2.3l recently i brought it to aamco and after i got it back i began noticing ussues with it. it began having hot spikes in temp. i have replaced the t-stat and both the Ect and CHT. I HAVE ALSO checked the integrity of the waterpump. now rather than pemp spikes it simply gradually raises in temp onthe guage but doesnt go into limp mode or boil over what else could i be over looking

 

[Bubba Bob]

Does the over heating correlate to stop and go traffic, constant speed, etc?

 

[bxcornw87]

It occurs within 3 miles of driving even from.a dead cold start (4 hrs in 50 degree climate)Also ill notethat parking and reving the engine sometimes lowers te guage reading

 

[Bubba Bob]

Check the temp of the upper and lower radiator hoses. Is there are large variance? How did you check the integrity of the water pump? Is the fan clutch engaging/disengaging?

3 miles is quick to overheat. Are you sure the gauge works correctly? Do you have hot air via the heater when this happens?

 

[bxcornw87]

The fan clutch isnt free wheeling at least and i have no accurate way of differantiating the upper and lower temps. im considering that either i got a bad t-stat (from ebay), a clogged radiator, or a warped head again thats leaking combustion or exhaust into coolant again.

 

[bxcornw87]

Also i removed the waterpump and checked the impeller dimensions vs om specs as well as an assesment of bearing conditions

 

[Bubba Bob]

The fan clutch isnt free wheeling at least and i have no accurate way of differantiating the upper and lower temps. im considering that either i got a bad t-stat (from ebay), a clogged radiator, or a warped head again thats leaking combustion or exhaust into coolant again.

Typically you can just touch them (carefully of course). This will give you a good indication as to whether the radiator is doing its job or not.

Also, what did Aamco do to your truck? If it was cooling system related, it's possible they induced air into the system. Try 'burping' your truck by parking it facing up an incline, then idling it with the radiator cap removed until air stops bubbling. This is the easiest (but not the most sure) way to remove air. It could also give you a decent indication if you have head gasket issues or not. Eg - If air bubbles endlessly from your radiator you may have head gasket issues, or at least air being induced somewhere.

 

[adsm08]

I would suspect an issue with gauge operation rather than an actual overtemp issue if it will happen within 3 miles of driving after a cold soak.

You could remove the belt so the water pump does nothing and it won't actually overheat in 3 miles.

 

[bxcornw87]

Aamco replaced the sprag clutch on 4th gear also ive flushed the system 4 times this weekend as for removing the belt... you confuse me on what that will actually do

 

[pjtoledo]

The fan clutch isnt free wheeling at least and i have no accurate way of differantiating the upper and lower temps. im considering that either i got a bad t-stat (from ebay), a clogged radiator, or a warped head again thats leaking combustion or exhaust into coolant again.

could you add a few details about "a warped head again"

last year the fan clutch went out on my '05 2.3
it would run at the proper temp over 45 MPH, below 30ish it would get hot.
the fan looked like it was turning, but it wasn't turning fast enough.



Perry

 

[adsm08]

Aamco replaced the sprag clutch on 4th gear also ive flushed the system 4 times this weekend as for removing the belt... you confuse me on what that will actually do

This post is going to come off terse because I am tired, have pains that I shouldn't get for another 20 years, and don't get laid enough. Bear with me.

1) Learn to use punctuation.

2) Read all the words and understand the sentence as a whole.

These two things are super super important here because on this forum we rely on the written word to communicate, which means it must be done as clearly and consistently as possible. This applies not only to the things you write, but to your comprehension of things that are written as well.


Now, I was not telling you to remove the belt. I was pointing out that under the conditions you ascribe to the duplication of your symptom that even if the water pump were 100% disabled, a state that could be easily achieved by removing the belt but is in no way desirable, your engine would not actually overheat. This leads me to believe that rather than there being an issue with your cooling system making it spike hot momentarily, an unlikely condition at best, I believe that a wiring issue is making your instruments lie to you.

 

[bxcornw87]

Ah ok well i just checked my.codes and had a 1299 false overheat so yes at this point you are probably right. as for my pervious comment. i had the head gasket changed 5 years ago due to a warped head allowing exhaust gas into the coolant system