2.3L ('83-'97) Help needed in UK

[Underdose]

Hi, my first post. I recently purchased a 92 ranger super cab with the 2.3 engine. It’s in relatively good condition with only around 52k miles on. Recorded in MOTs. The problems I’ve been having are previous owners modifications, along with general service parts and lack of use.

They weren’t sold here, it’s LHD and imported. So garages are little help and all the parts I’ve needed so far I’ve been shipping over from the US. Not a huge problem but the delays and getting the wrong parts etc is all a bit cumbersome.

The problem I’m currently having is the Airbox has been removed. And fitted with a K and N conical filter. The air sensor has been glued into the bottom of this and a vacuum hose, which I assume would of gone into the airbox has been capped off with the bolt. This tube creates a lot of suction if bolt removed. I’ve included a picture. Now I want to get everything running exactly as it should, so am willing to retrofit the proper box, even if it means attempting to source and ship one over. But I’d like to know what the vacuum pipe is for, what adverse affects it will be having, shouldn’t there be a second one... I have a Haynes manual but can’t find any information.


Another option is to redo the induction kit with a new universal filter and customise fittings. I’m worried about the blanking off of this vacuum pipe however. Any advice would be appreciated

 

[Curious Hound]

Welcome!

One possibility for that vacuum line. Many trucks of that era had an air plenum along the passenger side exhaust manifold. When cold, a vacuum actuated damper would open and allow warm air from that plenum to enter the intake and help the engine warm up faster. It would then close when the engine reached operating temperature. If thats what that vacuum line went to, everything will be fine with it capped off.

Regarding your intake, it would be good to route it so that it gets air from outside the engine compartment. Currently your engine is breathing hot air from the engine compartment which is generally bad for performance. Going back to the OEM setup is one way to fix that issue.

 

[Bgunner]

Usually the vacuum lines to the air box are temperature controlled by a switch in the airbox allowing warm air to be directed off of the exterior of the exhaust manifold into the air box to feed the car warm air when the engine is cold. This is to help the engine run when first started when it's cold out.

Issues without this feature are rough running when first started along with potential stalling. Outside temp dependent on this though. Summer the issue wont be there but will be during really cold weather.

Having the hose plugged off is fine as it wont hurt the engine other than cold start issues.

 

[Dirtman]

The factory airbox had a little vacuum actuated door on it to let in hot air from the exhaust when starting the truck in cold weather. That's where that line went.

 

[Dirtman]

If you want to get the factory airbox setup I suggest posting a "wanted" ad in the buy/sell section of the forum. Someone here may have one or be willing to take a trip to a junkyard to find you one since I'm gonna assume there are no rangers in junkyards over there. There are tons of them here in the U.S and Canada.

Btw very nice looking truck.

 

[golley]

Here is a pic from an old Ford factory manual of the basic operation. Now, if memory serves K&N filter swaps were popular with the mustang kids. You might find some more info in their foruns.

 

[golley]

from the mid 80s 2.3l but may be the same as your original was.

 

[golley]

Is that black? in 1990 i wanted a black ranger but the salesman talked me out of it, so bought a blue one. i drove it for about 20 years.

" HighO, Black, and away..!" (or some such)
- The Lone Black Ranger

yeah Dirtman, i know...get back in the corner.

 

[Dirtman]

Is that black? in 1990 i wanted a black ranger but the salesman talked me out of it, so bought a blue one. i drove it for about 20 years.

" HighO, Black, and away..!" (or some such)
- The Lone Black Ranger

yeah Dirtman, i know...get back in the corner.

 

[19Walt93]

That cone filter is so dry it isn't filtering anything. If you have to drive it with that filter I'd get a K&N recharge kit, clean it and oil it so it at least catches the big stuff. I hope you can find a factory air cleaner so you don't have to keep cleaning and re-oiling that cone.

 

[Underdose]

Great help guys. Thank you very much. Seems like it isn’t critical, so I’ve put new ducting in and a new universal k and n cone, larger, and further down with better fixing. Also re fitted the air sensor into the new cone. It’s improved the engine tenfold.

I’ve done some other work too, replaced EGR valve, water temp sensors, all plugs and wires, appropriate sized continentals all round, cab body mounts, all ball joints, leaf bushings, most of the bushings etc at front. It’s going into garage soon for gearbox, diff, clutch services among some other things. It took a while to find a garage keen on working on it, they seem quite excited. Other places didn’t want to know.

I’ve currently got an issue with the coolant temperature not rising, heater taking a hard drive to blow hot. Am assuming thermostat so just waiting for that to be shipped over and I hope this will stop it running rich.

This is being used for a work truck, daily, with heavy often. I’m a Stone Mason. It’s been fantastic so far compared to all the jap and europe trucks we have here. I am having trouble finding a bed cover however, with shipping for a basic tonneau from the US costing £140 in shipping

I’ll get a couple more photos up of changes up soon. Thanks for all the help.

yes it’s Black, will respray it in Winter as it’s a bit thin. Looks rad though.

 

[Blmpkn]

You should snag some front coil spacers to level it up

 

[tomw]

You may be replacing parts that are not normal replacements over the lifetime of vehicles in USA. Unless there are specific problems with the gearbox, I'd leave it alone. You might change the lubricant, but if it works ok, don't go further than that. Most bushings are not replaced over time here. Differenatial and clutch services would be limited to drain and refill on the diff, and replacing the disk, pressure plate and possibly the release bearing if you are having slippage, or the pedal is up near the 'top' of its throw before you get power to the gearbox.
Nice looking truck.
tom

 

[scotts90ranger]

I'll second that, if the trans isn't doing anything silly, don't touch it... As my transmission mechanic friend says, factory synchro's are hard to beat, it won't shift the same with replacements. I rebuilt the trans in my '90 with probably 250k miles on it and it didn't really change anything...

The clutch on the other hand, if that's slipping, replace away...