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Help Me Save a Ranger


nobbyv

Active Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
42
Transmission
Automatic
I've been missing having a Ranger as my Home Depot/dump run/back-up vehicle since my last one died three years ago, so I'm looking for another. Found what I *think* is a good candidate, but could use some advice on what I found in my once-over I did on it today.

It's a '97 2WD XLT step side, 2.3L, 5spd w/ 155k. There's pretty complete service history(!), including the timing belt at 153k. The body is in very good shape for the age: one small rust bubble on the tailgate, and some typical rust on the frame but no frame rot. The mechanicals were all in working order: tranny shifts fine, clutch release point is good, plenty of pad left on the front brakes, E-brake holds like it should. I let it run for over twenty minutes, and there's no sign of either coolant or oil leaks. No coolant smell in the oil, and absolutely no smoke out of the tailpipe.

It'll need two (or possibly four) tires, and probably some new shocks at some point. No big deal.

But here's the part that's giving my concern: it started right up, and idled OK. It sounded a bit rough at idle, like it may have been misfiring slightly. But it idled happily for 10-15 minutes while I was checking out other things with no issue. But as soon as I hopped in and revved the engine, it struggled to rev, sounding like there were possibly more misfires. As soon as I let off the gas, it died. I repeated this 2-3 times, and it did the same thing each time: would start fine, and idle more-or-less fine, but as soon as I revved it and then let off the gas it would die.

No CEL was thrown, but I foolishly forgot to bring a OBD-II scanner to check for any stored codes. To me, this sounds like a fuel issue, as I think if there was a spark issue a CEL would have been thrown. I looked through the DIY for replacing the fuel pump (worst case), and it looks like a bit of a pain but nothing I can't handle, and it's cheap enough.

So, onto my questions:
1) Am I way off on my guess of a fuel issue?
2) If so, any other guesses?
3) Does this seem worth buying? I normally would leave it alone, but the fact that someone put a timing belt on it 3k ago says to me that it WAS running well up until recently (of course, that COULD mean it had been running well and then developed a major issue that caused them to dump it...). It's short money: I think I can get it for ~$850 or so, so obviously a minor risk money wise, but my local Craigslist has a dozen Rangers available in that price range so I don't want to jump on a basket case if I can avoid it.

I'd appreciate any advice.
 
It's probably nothing major. You will just have to start checking things to find the cause of the problem. Checking for codes would be a good place to start. Check the timing marks to be sure they installed the belt correctly. Pull a spark plug to see how they look. I sound like a great price. I love my 97 2.3L 5 speed stepside.
 
If the IAC were gunky, it might not respond quickly to a throttle 'snap closed'. It would have to open quickly to stabilize the idle when the throttle plate was closed.
If you want to know what's going on that can be expensive, do two things: a compression test, and a mechanical oil pressure reading, hot and cold, @idle and 2krpms.
Compression will check the valves & rings, oil the crankshaft & rod bearing clearance, in general. There are rules of thumb for both compression and oil pressure. 10psi per 1,000rpms is one, but the high end will be good if it is 40-50psi, idle should not be below 10. IMO. See other recent posts about compression.
tom
added:
If the body is in good shape, sounds like a pretty good deal. The lima will go 300k if you give it reasonable care. It can be killed by neglect.
 
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I ended up making an offer a few minutes ago and we settled at $900 with it flat-bedded to my house, as I don't think it would make the ~10 mile drive. I SHOULD have checked compression, but I decided to roll the dice. Hopefully I won't regret it.

Thanks for the advice guys!
 
First check the fuel pressure. Pumps go bad, and they are easy to replace. Pulling the bed off is how I would do it if you do need to replace it.
 
Also, I think if its in as good a shape as you make it sound, its well worth what you paid.
 
Good price for low mileage truck.

The stalling at acceleration sounds like the same problem I had with my carbed engine...it was a vacuum leak around the base of the carb...

Would idle all day long but rev the engine and it would die...start up fine...idle fine again...die on revs...

So...check the carb...lol...I mean check for vac leaks...you won't find many places for that other than the EGR (could be driver side or) on the passenger side and the stuff going to the hvac box and the little black plastic ball with the check valve in it...all potential places for leaks...as well as broken tubes etc.
 
On injected cars (trucks) a vacuum leak tends to cause slow idle down, and high idle. Sounds more like a fuel delivery problem to me. But still, check for vac leaks, even though they will not be a cause for rough idle.
 
Change fuel filter (quite often overlooked even on well maintained vehicles ) plugs, wires, the usual GOOD tuneup, put fresh gas and a pint of marvels mystery oil or super cheap ATX in gas for 3x tanks. My ranger did the same thing till it had a chance to blow out the old gas, also the wierdest thing was battery had an open cell, it only had about 10vdc on it, would start and run but would die when it needed more spark...replaced battery and it runs good (but that might not be your problem)

SAMSUNG say whaaaaaat?
 
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If your MAF has schmutz on the wire(s), it can cause hesitation on acceleration. You can remove it and inspect for anything, ever so small, on the heated wires. If there, a bogus signal about air coming into the engine is sent to the ECM. If the bellows that duct air to the intake have breaks, same thing. The ribs can separate down in the groove and appear intact when they are actually fractured, opening up when the engine moves on the mounts in response to torque.
tom
 

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