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help me out


robertssteven69

New Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Messages
2
Vehicle Year
87 4x4 , 95 2x4
Transmission
Automatic
ive got 87 reg cab short bed i'm puting a rough country 4" lift on
i would like to know is those 2" coil spacer things will really give me 2 more inches and are they worth sh#t. or can i oder 6" springs and get those 2 "s i want ur input would help me out a lot thanks
 
Stay away from the polyurethane coil spacers....period. If you want to use coil spacers, use metal washers.

Second, If your installing a 4" Lift on a reg cab short bed, your gonna get a full 4" from your springs that come in the kit. If you were to add 2" worth of spacers, you might have a problem getting it aligned unless you use fully adjustable camber bushings (Ext cab trucks can no problem due to weight).

If you order 6" springs, again, you might have alignment issues. But by no means will you be able to use the 6" springs AND spacers.


If it were me, I'd just install the 4" Lift and see where you stand. If you wanna add a few washers to level it out or keep from rubbing you can in small increments.
 
it may be tall enough being its four cylinder and the 3" body lift + the 4 inch susp
i hope so anyway thanks
 
Stay away from the polyurethane coil spacers....period. If you want to use coil spacers, use metal washers.

Second, If your installing a 4" Lift on a reg cab short bed, your gonna get a full 4" from your springs that come in the kit. If you were to add 2" worth of spacers, you might have a problem getting it aligned unless you use fully adjustable camber bushings (Ext cab trucks can no problem due to weight).

If you order 6" springs, again, you might have alignment issues. But by no means will you be able to use the 6" springs AND spacers.


If it were me, I'd just install the 4" Lift and see where you stand. If you wanna add a few washers to level it out or keep from rubbing you can in small increments.

I agree on keeping the lift as low as possible to get the job done

why not use the correct spacers? metal washers do not make sense to me.
 
Polyurethane will deteriorate and collapse under the weight of the truck over a short amount of time...Me and others on this board have had this problem. This happening will cause alignment issues and therefore handling issues....not a good thing.
 
Polyurethane will deteriorate and collapse under the weight of the truck over a short amount of time...Me and others on this board have had this problem. This happening will cause alignment issues and therefore handling issues....not a good thing.

You do know that the stock units are rubber right?

SO our recommendation is it from experience or out of the blue?

I have used poly spacers for XJ trail rigs for many years. I use a 4" spring and a 1" to 2" short spacer to get max travel out of the springs and the springs bottom out before shocks.

If you had failures they must have been very cheap units and improperly made

I have rigs that see HEAVY trail and road use for nearly 100,000 miles and 6 years of use without any failures.

Most poly spacers come with an unlimited lifetime warranty for a reason. Using washers are Mickey Mouse at best and dangerous at worst
 
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my badd! I know its not a jeep and I do know that the way the springs are designed is back asswards which is what is causeing the problem with the taper on the bottom.

I did my own research elsewhere and the problem is the location of the puck and they are poorly designed for the ranger. now I understand. now another question? has anyone tried a jeep spacer on top of the spring? The weight would be spread out over the wide end instead of the small end. effectively doubling the weight capacity of the spacer (twice the material and twice the diameter)
 
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The other problem is RBVs (specifically the TTB suspension) puts 1.5× the vehicle's weight on the springs due to the lever action of the suspension beams. Combine that with the fact RBVs are up to 600lbs heavier up front than a Jeep, it's little wonder a soft piece of cheap rubbery plastic gets squished to s#!t.

What I'd like to know though is how you think simple washers are unsafe??? :icon_confused: Something that cannot collapse and fall apart, is captured by the bolt (cannot fall out) and actually affords some height adjustability of the suspension.
 
The other problem is RBVs (specifically the TTB suspension) puts 1.5× the vehicle's weight on the springs due to the lever action of the suspension beams. Combine that with the fact RBVs are up to 600lbs heavier up front than a Jeep, it's little wonder a soft piece of cheap rubbery plastic gets squished to s#!t.

What I'd like to know though is how you think simple washers are unsafe??? :icon_confused: Something that cannot collapse and fall apart, is captured by the bolt (cannot fall out) and actually affords some height adjustability of the suspension.

I admitted I was wrong here and willing to learn. It is nothing I would try on a jeep. The weight is not the issue as the 4.o inline is a massive piece of steel no aluminum in that motor LOL. So what is the advantage to the TTB? Im still trying to figure it out
 
Jeeps typically weigh 1700-1900lbs up front (both the frameless Cherokee and Wrangler). A Supercab Ranger OTOH is 2200-2400lbs up front. This is due to a significant difference in weight distribution (Jeeps are close to 50-50%, Rangers are more like 63-37% front-rear).
Overall however both vehicles are within a couple hundred lbs of each other.

Not sure I understand the 2nd part of your post, I wasn't comparing advantages or performance differences of the suspension, just pointing out that it has a higher load on the springs that quickly crushes any spacer not made of metal.
 
my badd! I know its not a jeep and I do know that the way the springs are designed is back asswards which is what is causeing the problem with the taper on the bottom.

I did my own research elsewhere and the problem is the location of the puck and they are poorly designed for the ranger. now I understand. now another question? has anyone tried a jeep spacer on top of the spring? The weight would be spread out over the wide end instead of the small end. effectively doubling the weight capacity of the spacer (twice the material and twice the diameter)

have you ever looked at an RBV spring in the bucket? no spacers on top
 
have you ever looked at an RBV spring in the bucket? no spacers on top

I will next week when I drop my truck...LOL Im sure I wil come up with some ideas when I do. and there are always more ways to skin a cat. I was told I could not put an HP60 under and XJ and have it drive well and we did that.:icon_welder:
 

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