Help me finish

[bpursey26]

Ok todays my birthday and I just want the infamous 4.0 swap complete. The issue I'm having is I cant figure how to rewire the trans. So here is where the problem starts motor is out of a 91 explorer I used all wiring under hood computer, plugs, putting dash in now while I'm waiting for a final answer from some one who has done this. However the trans in the explorer was a auto and mine is a manual. Also mine is a 90 B2 XLT so what I have is pur/ora to pur/ora then blck/pnk to blck/pnk then wht/blck to pink. So this is where I don't know what to connect to where I have left a blck/wht wire from my 5 speed harness. A purp/yel wire a red wire and a oran/yel wire please help me finish this all I want to do is go play in a little mud............. Thanks for looking and I am grateful for any help. I have read every thread I could possibly find but just leads to more questions.

 

[Spott]

Okay, I might be able to help you some, but I need more details. Which engine did you have originally? Which wires are in the '91 engine harness, and which are in the '90 manual transmission harness? I've got wiring diagrams for both trucks to look at.

Also, I'd like to double-check that wht/blk to pink connection, which wire belongs to which harness, and where does each wire run from that connection?

Finally, I can't find a single ppl/yel wire on either the '90 or '91 wiring diagrams. Are you absolutely certain it's a purple wire with a yellow stripe, and not another similar color? Which harness does it belong to? What does the other end connect to?

There are many red wires in these trucks; which harness does the red wire belong to, and what does the other end connect to?

 

[RonD]

From what you didn't say..........I assume a 2.9l in the B2 and you are keeping the manual trans and bolting it to the 4.0l since they have the same pattern

Is that correct?

The wiring harness is for the automatic, so you want to know which wires need to be jumped to get starter motor(NSS) working and which wires are for the Reverse light switch on manual trans?


Or am I way off base?

 

[Spott]

I think he got the reverse switch, that's ppl/org and blk/pnk. I think he also needs to sort the VSS, and the NSS/clutch is a little complicated.

 

[bpursey26]

Ok so I had the 2.9 engine with the FM146. The 4.0 I just put in from a 91 explorer that had a auto trans. the colors coming off the manual 5 speed are blck/wht, wht/blck, blck/pck,purple/orange. the wires coming from explorer wiring that had the auto are the first is a 3 wire connector with purple/yell, maybe salmon/yell. and a red wire that goes back into the trans harness back up towards top of motor drivers side. The other connector is a 5 wire connection with red/wht, purple/ora, red/blue, blck,pck, and a decent size pink wire. maybe the purple is violet idk looks purple to me. Thanks for helping out so confused with all the wires and trying to track all the homes.

 

[RonD]

The 3 wire connection is probably the auto transmissions TCC and Overdrive connection, so won't be used, but computer will turn on CEL(check engine light) because they are not used.

The 5 wire would have gone to the NSS(neutral safety switch) just above the shifter linkage on the automatic.

Here is the back up light wiring for B2 and Ranger manual trans: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_backuplights.JPG

Purple/orange is the 12volt wire from ignition switch
Black/pink is the "out to Lights" wire

These wires should be the same on both, old trans and explorer 5 wire, so just splice match colors


On explorer harness the larger Pink wire should be the starter motor wire, it should be spliced to the Red/light blue wire in the same harness, that would pass 12volt to starter relay when key is turned to START, assuming clutch switch was changed, the clutch switch on an automatic wiring harness just "jumpers" the 2 pink wires under the dash because there is no clutch pedal, on a manual the clutch switch "connects" the 2 pink wires when pedal is down all the way.


VSS(speed sensor) on the explorer shows pink/orange as ground and runs to pin6 of computer, then a dark green/white to pin3

Ranger VSS show pink/orange and Grey/black repectively

 

[Spott]

Okay, now we can make some headway.

In the transmission harness:
BLK/WHT is a common wire for the neutral sensor, it should hook to common from the clutch switch assembly, and TPS and MAP and others (which should be blk/wht on the engine harness), and eventually to pin 46 of the EEC.
WHT/BLK is the other side of the neutral sensor and clutch switch, it tells the EEC when the transmission is disengaged. You're correct, it should go to the pink wire of the engine harness (which eventually hooks to a brown wire and then pin 30 of the EEC).
BLK/PNK is the return signal from the backup switch in the transmission, it should hook to blk/pnk of the engine harness, which goes to the reverse lamps.
PPL/ORG is the power supply to the backup switch in the transmission, it should hook up to ppl/org in the engine harness.

In the engine harness, the 3-wire set:
PPL/YEL Can't find one of these in the diagrams, so I'm going to guess. If it runs to pin 52 or 53 on the ECC, then it controlled one of the electronic shift solenoids in the AT. You won't use it with the MT, so insulate it well so it can't ground to anything, and secure it so it's not flopping around.
ORG/YEL goes to the VSS, at the back of the transfer case. Also make sure that the dk grn/wht wire from the VSS is hooked up to the same wire in the engine harness somewhere, and runs to pin 3 on the ECC.
RED I'm pretty sure this is to send power to the electronic shift solenoids that were in the AT. You won't use it with the MT, so insulate it well so it can't ground to anything, and secure it so it's not flopping around.

In the engine harness, the 5-wire set:
RED/WHT Can't find one of these in the diagrams, so I'm going to guess. If it runs to pin 52 or 53 on the ECC, then it controlled one of the electronic shift solenoids in the AT. You won't use it with the MT, so insulate it well so it can't ground to anything, and secure it so it's not flopping around.
PPL/ORG connects to ppl/org in the transmission harness, see above.
RED/LT BLU is the wire that goes to the starter relay, and had to go through the AT shifter before so that you could only start the truck in P and N. Now, I'm pretty sure you should just jumper it to the pink wire next to it (along with the wht/blk wire above).
BLK/PNK connects to blk/pnk in the transmission harness, see above.
PNK connects to wht/blk in the transmission harness, see above.

Note that the clutch triple-function switch is pretty complicated, and it appears there may be 3 different pink wires serving similar but possibly unconnected purposes there. If you can't get it to start when you step on the clutch, we'll dive further into that wiring.

Finally, the only remaining thing I'm concerned about is the other wire from the VSS (labeled dk grn/wht on my diagrams), which needs to run to pin 3 on the ECC.

You may have to look at the wire colors at the ECC to make certain of some of my guesses. If you see one of those wires running to a different pin than I mentioned, let me know.

 

[Spott]

P.S. It's not making a lot of sense to me that the electronic shift solenoid wires wouldn't all be in the same connector, so double-check the ORG/YEL and the RED/WHT wires at the ECC.

 

[bpursey26]

Alright I really am grateful for the replies to try and clear this up guess im gonna dive right back in it did clear up most of my concearns just got confusing in between the AT and MT and where to wire what so hope to have her purring tonight with the possibility of mud here in the great northwest. So again I'm jumping on this now while its stuck in my head. Ill update with good or bad news. Thanks again.

 

[bpursey26]

Ok so never got this wrapped up so here is where I am I connected wires as explained above and now it keeps blowing the ALT Power no. 2 fuse and also no power to fuel pump ive tested fuel pump at relay jumping the circuits and pump kicks on but not sure about the blowing fuses guessing its these trans wires is it possible that fuses powers that also with heater.

 

[Spott]

You'll have to let us know what you ended up doing; what did you determine about the wires I was unsure about, which wires did you connect to what, and how did you handle those wires that are unused?

We need details, man.

 

[bpursey26]

Update

Sorry got ahead of myself, The purp/oran went to purp/oran for rev light along with blck/pink to blck pink. The red blue/wire went to pink to override NSS and send signal to starter. As far as 4 low I haven't did that I just want to hear it run. Still no power to fuel pump but after some more testing the ECM is not sending the negative signal to pump relay so Im sure it has to be a short or a bad ground. During test I probed #1 slot of pump relay with a test light ran from + of battery and upon cranking It should light if Im receiving signal from ECM and its not doing anything during cranking. However after key is turned off the test light slightly glows I mean really weak that's why I think its more a ground then anything. Guess Im going to go back and clean all grounds and maybe I will get lucky and find a not connected wire or my break. How many grounds should I have and from what to what maybe I missed one looks like that's a pretty common issue for even the most Novice installers. Post back as I find any issues that I come in contact with in hopes it will help someone else in my shoes. Also the ALT PWR SRC 2 fuse not even sure what this powers Ive looked around and cant get a for sure answer.

 

[RonD]

Here is the pin out for EEC-IV: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

Pin22 should show battery voltage(12v) when key is on, that would mean FP relay is getting power from EEC relay and it is passing thru the relay coil and down the wire to the EEC, so wire is good.
EEC grounds pin22 to activate FP relay, so check that all the grounds for the EEC are good.
Pin22 is only grounded for 2 seconds when key is turned on, it isn't grounded again until engine starts or until key is turned off and on again, it is a safety feature.

You can manually ground FP relay using the OBDI connector, usually by power brake booster
Look here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.shtml

Second diagram shows Fuel Pump slot in OBD connector
That slots wire is spliced to EEC pin22 wire, if you Ground that slot and key is on FP relay will close, and fuel pump should start.



FP relay base(green) should have one 12volt slot with key off, that will be the fuel pump power directly from battery via 30amp fuse or fusible link, this is the power that goes to inertia switch when relay is active.

With key on there will be a second 12volt slot, that is power from the EEC Relay(brown base), this is the power you would see on pin22

 

[bpursey26]

So think I got my finger on it. Did all my fuel relay tests and passed high low volts then jumped relay and pump kicks on. Do the hot test light off battery and when key turns on to start it the test light illumnates. Howenr still no fuel pump so is this telling me relsy od nsf ;ik im thimging

 

[Barrett37]

Please bear with me, I'm new to the forum but I'm in need of help asap. We recently did a motor swap. Took the 4.0 from a 97 ranger and put it in a 98 that had a bad 4.0. We noticed when trying to start the truck no fuel was getting to the fuel rail. We swapped the fuel rails out and now have that problem solved. When trying to start the truck, it will turn over but not crank. We are getting fuel and fire. I changed out the crank shaft position sensor, still have the same results. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We are trying to get this truck going for my sister, who recently lost her husband and has no vehicle at the moment.