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HELP!! brakes do not disengage fully


raguza123

Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
16
City
New Haven,Ct
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
I had to drive it home from Boston,Ma to New Haven,Ct with my brakes slightly engaged, could feel it holding me back.
When I got home it was rolling easily. Then I went out for Ice cream and after I stopped at the store and got what I wanted I jumped in her and I felt it holding me back again, it was like I had the brakes on. I don't know if it was the Emergency Brake doing it again.
I pulled the drums and checked the shoes nothing major looked normal.
The drums looked new, They were replaced 2 months ago with new ones and the shoes also, my emergency brake wouldn't disengage, I cracked a drum.
Last year at this time I replaced the driver side wheel cylinder and shoes.
Now something is engaging, I touched the drums today, the drivers side seemed hot, but not to hot to touch, the Passenger side seemed too hot, it like gave me a slight burn.
What's going on here? Before I crack another drum.
 
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I had this problem.

Have you replaced your ebrake cables? They were my problem both times.

I have also had the auto parts store sell me 10" brake hardware for 9" brakes. There are many suspects, but I'd put my money on bad ebrake cables.
 
No I haven't replaced them at all.
Would a 02 Ranger Edge 4.0 4x4 have 9" brakes, I've been using 10"
my tires are 16"
 
When you pull the drums off, are the tops of the brake shoes touching the center pin with the springs hooked on it?

My brake shoes weren't, and it was because the e-brake cables were pulling the shoes outward just enough that it caused a deep groove in my drum.


New cables (and like Wizkid said) make sure they're for the correct sized drum.
 
I did notice my shoes won't touch the anchor pin, only one at a time will.
So you are saying my cables aren't adjusted correctly or they need to be replaced?
I also found my Wheel cylinder on the right side was bad, it was original, I replaced the left side last year.
I decided to replace them both today and the shoes are lifetime so I grab another pair.
 
Yeah, replace your e-brake cables. They get so rusted inside of the sheath that the cable is constantly keeping tension on the shoes.
 
How do I know which are the proper lenth's, so I won't grab the wrong lenth?
I have a 126" wheelbase with a: 2dr supercab, or is it a 4dr, I have the small seats in the back they sit sideways, and they have a half door, what do I call this?
so I know what to tell them
 
You only need to know your wheelbase (hooray for knowing already!) and your brake drum size (they're either going to be 9" or 10")

Use a tape measure or ruler across the front part of the drum (through the lug studs), it's the easiest way to be absolutely certain.



Actually, I think the wheelbase ONLY matters when you're ordering the front e-brake cable. However, that cable rarely goes bad because it has no sheath. Just order the back ones and change them out.

Oh, and be sure to remember how they're routed along the frame and such, as to minimize rubbing. Also, expect the swap to take 2-3 hours, at least. (Unless you're proficient with brake drums.)
 
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I'm back to let you all know you all were right on the money, the rear cables were siezed and my e brake was on all the time, now it feels normal again. Thank you all for your help
 
I wounder if my truck has this problem, it does not seem to coast down hill without a little gas.
 
Look into the cables at the drums, my cables were siezed and if I used the e brake they stayed engaged just enough to cause drag, I would slow down when I let off the accelerator.
I also found out there are 3 different types of cables, 9" brakes, 10" brakes Standard suspension, and 10" brakes HD suspension.
make sure when you replace them if you have too, get the right ones, I matched them up.
I was warned here about this issue and had to order the right ones.
My Ranger Edge has HD suspension I found out.
 
i think they stopped making them different in the later years, when i replaced my cable on my ranger, (07) they just needed to know the body style...

my truck had issues with the ebrake cable also,

easiest way to tell if it's an ebrake cable issue, when you step on the ebrake, then release it, if the pedal doesn't come all the way back up on it's own, or if when it's all the way up, your cable on the drivers side frame rail droops, it's seized in one of the rear sheaths...

i got away with changing just the drivers side one for like 23$
 
i think they stopped making them different in the later years, when i replaced my cable on my ranger, (07) they just needed to know the body style...

my truck had issues with the ebrake cable also,

easiest way to tell if it's an ebrake cable issue, when you step on the ebrake, then release it, if the pedal doesn't come all the way back up on it's own, or if when it's all the way up, your cable on the drivers side frame rail droops, it's seized in one of the rear sheaths...

i got away with changing just the drivers side one for like 23$

Thanks for the info, my pedal does come all the way up, but there is a ton of slack in the cable running along the frame. i always thought it was a stretched cable. i guess time to go shopping.
I did install 10" drums, but i doubt that have any affect on the cables.
I am guess its going to be two separate cables?
 
yes there is 2 cables, the left side is short about 51" and the right side is about 81". I'm guessing your 87 ranger isn't much different. My Haynes manual covers only 94 to 05.
 

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