Helga, My 88 B2 Build...

[Hahnsb2]

Man, I've been waiting to get my D35 in for weeks, I'm jealous! I'm just waiting to get it back from the shop doing the gears... Looks good though!

Any info on that spring you used for the e-clip eliminator?

Thanks! It's nice to get this done finally, been looking for a damn 4.10 D35 for almost a year! The spring I picked up at Wilco Hardware/farm store here, It was 1 1/4" OD, biggest they had, I took pliers to it and worked it over to make it big enough, needs to be about 1 3/8" ID, worked pretty good, not the greatest fit right now but it pushes the axle in if I pull it out, I'll probably get some sort of collar on the shaft to prevent it from sliding. I deffinatly wasn't gonna put the e-clip in, would be a son of a bitch to replace that inner shaft if you had to pull the pig.

 

[Sunk]

Thanks. I think 4x4Junkie suggested using hoseclamps as a collar for the spring. Or you can put a smaller spring inside the splined part if you take weld the back of the female side to prevent from backing out.... if that doesn't work out for ya.

I thought about putting the clip back in since I've to break anything in the D28 yet, but since I'm stepping up to 33s and will be locked f/r I figure it'd be better not to...

 

[Hahnsb2]

Put the manual 1354 in today after work, it was 99* outside. I had to put on the small lever from the 1350 because I'm not using an M5OD yet and the one on it was bent for the M5OD linkage, then in low range the linkage hit the driveshaft yoke/cardan joint, and had to be heavily clearanced with a grinder.
I took her down on my lower property to test 4x4 and everything seems well, the Aussie is silent, you get some pull on the wheel when you turn that tries to straighten out but it's really not bad at all.
Only pic I got was me tightening the flange on the rear since it was loose, I put the yoke in the vice to keep it still. And yeah it appears the output seal leaks but whatever, I just wanna wheel.

 

[danger88ranger]

Lookin good

 

[Hahnsb2]

4Wheel parts had everything 10% off so I went down to the store today, 34X10.5 LTBs, came to $600 even and that included the no questions asked warranty and shipping for the other 2 tires from seattle which should hit my house on wednesday. The front fenders are gonna take trimming.

 

[danger88ranger]

4Wheel parts had everything 10% off so I went down to the store today, 34X10.5 LTBs, came to $600 even and that included the no questions asked warranty and shipping for the other 2 tires from seattle which should hit my house on wednesday. The front fenders are gonna take trimming.

Your going to love those tires, best mod i ever did to my truck was my swampers

 

[AngloSaxon]

Very nice work!

 

[Hahnsb2]

Thanks

After measuring things yesterday, at full stuff against the bump stops I'll have 1.5" between the top of the tire and fender, it looks like I only need to cut the forward and rear openings on the front fenders, possibly on the rear too but it's hard to say without getting them on.
Just a comparison. FWIW my 31s are 29" and the 34s are a hair over 32"...

 

[Thighman]

not sure why they dont just call them 33s? Cuz that is what they are

 

[Boggin]

man i love that build!

 

[Hahnsb2]

That dickbag I was getting wheels from totally flaked, fawk people on craigslist with a rusty spoon... I ended up using the wheels from my dads ranger like I was originally going to, it just took a lot more work since he wanted the 5 spoke wheels from one of the sploder parts rigs but he wanted the new tires from another sploder parts rig, so it took a shit ton of mounting and dismounting (like 12 dismounts and 8 mounts), I bought a tire mounter/dismounter from harbor freight for $40, actually worked really well, much better than by hand with pry bars. By the time I finished I didn't have time to trim fenders but I put em on one side to see what they'd look like and then just on the rear for a drive to check out my gearing, which actually isn't too bad, much better than when I had 3.45s and 31s, I hardly noticed much difference and 5th is still usable... The really aren't any noisier than my current tires either but then again I only had the rears on. My measurments turned out to be true, only have to trim the forward and rear openings on the front fenders, rears are close but should be fine.
I'm glad I went with 34s, the 33x13.50s were too wide, the 31x11.5s are just too short and these look just right and the price was right too.

 

[mkpecor]

the only swomps that are what size they say are= truxes , iroks , tsl , ssr , boggers. the ltb is 33.6'' so in my book its a 34''.

 

[Hahnsb2]

Fender trimmage. Just like I thought, only had to trim the forward and rear openings on the front, the rears have like 1/2" of clearence on either side of the tires when stuffed. They don't even hit the radius arms at full lock on the front . I want to extend the bumper a bit to fill in the spot where I cut.

 

[Loanranger]

the only swomps that are what size they say are= truxes , iroks , tsl , ssr , boggers. the ltb is 33.6'' so in my book its a 34''.

33 boggers are only 31.5, and thats at 50 psi, run them at 10-15, and you're looking at around 30-30.5 inches.

The 34s with 5 pounds only measure in at 31.5, but they are a damn good tire. Nice and soft compound, and reach out and grab anything available.

 

[Loanranger]

Fender trimmage. Just like I thought, only had to trim the forward and rear openings on the front, the rears have like 1/2" of clearence on either side of the tires when stuffed. They don't even hit the radius arms at full lock on the front . I want to extend the bumper a bit to fill in the spot where I cut.

You may want to trim a little bit more from the rear if you only have a half inch, they'll expand when you spin them, and if you're at full stuff spinning, they'll gouge pretty easy. I did this with one of the rear swampers on my ranger.