Headbolts - oil or not, washer or not

[richind]

2000 4.0 4WD....85k miles. Getting ready to replace the head gaskets. I'm concerned about getting the new TTY headbolts into the yield zone. Should I lightly oil the headbolts before installation? Also, what about a washer on the headbolt to avoid galling. Would that affect the torque readings?

I also want to measure the old head bolts after removing. Should I see a length difference when compared to the new bolts?

Thanks!

 

[brinker88]

Depending on the location of the headbolt (coolant passage or oil passage) depends on if they get oiled with fresh oil OR coated with a nonhardening silicone. Do NOT ( I cannot stress this enough) use washers on the head bolts. They dont use them for a reason.

 

[richind]

Depending on the location of the headbolt (coolant passage or oil passage) depends on if they get oiled with fresh oil OR coated with a nonhardening silicone. Do NOT ( I cannot stress this enough) use washers on the head bolts. They dont use them for a reason.

Thanks Brinker. So how do I know whether it is a coolant passage or not? I have a factory manual, the instructions don't mention this. The workshop manual seems to not mention a lot of things

 

[adsm08]

The water jackets are the little skate-board ramp shaped holes around the cylinders. Technically you are supposed to use spray silicone on the ones that go right next to a water jacket, but I don't.

I have a cone-shaped lid from a gear-lube bottle that just has the very tip cut off of it. I use it to run a light bead of clean engine oil down all of the threads and work it around with my fingers as I put them in and have never had a problem from it. The key is to not put on so much that is hydro-locks the bolt or goes oozing out all over the place.

As for the "yield zone" get your actual torque values set properly with a torque wrench. Then break out a sharpie and make marks on the brim of the bolt head at 90* intervals, and a mark on the head, near the bolt. Then you just make your 1/2 or 1/4 turns by your marks. It has been my experience that a few degrees off won't make or break the job. As long as you are close enough it won't matter if you go a few degrees too far, that is def better than not going far enough.


But yeah, no washers.

 

[richind]

Good advice - I'll use it.

Thanks!

 

[shane96ranger]

All of my experience has been on SBF's, but I always clean the threads with a tap and cutting oil. I usually find some crap near the water jackets.

EDIT: And also go over the bolts with a wire brush to clean any unsavory metal pieces.

 

[richind]

Just a followup....finished the job, it wasn't the head gaskets, it was a cracked head. Cracked between the valves. The job wasn't as bad as I had thought it would be, just time consuming, mostly because I took my time. Some tips...

- Use OEM gaskets. Nothing else. Felpro head gaskets will not last. I know from experience.

- the exhaust manifold nuts were pretty stuck, so I removed the heads with the manifolds attached. Way easier work on getting them off when the heads are on a workbench.

- I should have acquired new manifold studs/nuts before starting. If they are in bad shape, you'll want to replace them. I re-installed the heads first and then the exhaust manifolds. You don't want to snap any of these off when torquing them back on after the heads have been torqued! None of the local auto stores had any, and the local Ford dealerships only had a couple each. So that delayed things.

- Use good quality tools. I had a cheap thread chaser, and didn't like it, so I sprung for a ARP M12 x 1.75 thread chaser. It was expensive ($70 with shipping and handling), but WELL worth it. It fit and worked perfectly.

- Look at the job in stages. Seeing just the block in the truck and parts all over the place was a bit overwhelming. Much easier to look at the work in stages - cleaning the block face, done. Getting the heads checked, done. Install and torque heads, done, etc.

- Watch out towards the end of the job. I didn't spend the time I should have on one of the valve covers because I wanted to finish, and ended up with an oil leak. Had to tear into it again to fix that. Patience at the end is just as important as at the beginning!

- No washers on the headbolts, cleaned the headbolt holes real well and chased them. Then used the advice above to lightly oil (30w) the headbolt threads and underside of the top. They torqued in smooth, no squeaking or sudden movements. Oh, and marking the bolts with a sharpie is good advice too for the final degree turn. It really helps give a visual to make sure you didn't forget one and that you got it right.

Things turned out well, she started right up, stumbled just a little, then ran smooth. No CE light, no strange sounds, and no more steam out the tailpipe

 

[Tominator]

Felpro head gaskets will not last.

Which ones? Felpro Permatorque Headgaskets are reknown in the world of building great motors!

I will NEVER use OEM headgaskets... never ever....ever...get the idea?

 

[richind]

Which ones? Felpro Permatorque Headgaskets are reknown in the world of building great motors!

Just like the one pictured here:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85676

Don't know if they are the Permatorque ones......

 

[brinker88]

^ This!!! I had one fail within a year of installing them. They are JUNK.

 

[adsm08]

I will NEVER use OEM headgaskets... never ever....ever...get the idea?

Why so violent in your opposition?

 

[Tominator]

I've rebuilt a bunch of motors in my time and worked at a parts store for 9 years. Managed it for 3. Personnel feedback combined with customer satisfaction and Felpro Permatorque gaskets are the best period save a pure race motor.

 

[shane96ranger]

I haven't had any issues with anything made by Felpro. I do use the Permatex Copper Spray on head gaskets though. That probably adds a little extra help to them.

They make, by far, the best header gaskets money can buy.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem

 

[aspevacek]

My Gaskets of choice are Victor Reinz. I have never had any issues with any gaskets from them. I only use coating if it is called for. Most head gaskets are designed with a coating to be put on dry.

 

[shane96ranger]

My Gaskets of choice are Victor Reinz. I have never had any issues with any gaskets from them. I only use coating if it is called for. Most head gaskets are designed with a coating to be put on dry.

I've been told by several people those gaskets are junk. I also learned the copper spray trick from one hell of an engine builder.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem