Having trouble starting my truck SOMETIMES...?

[Spott]

Kinda urgent if someone can. Working on it now... So today my fuel pump is working... So I removed relay 9... The fuel pump relay according to my manual... The fuel pump still primes and starts. I was wanting to have it not prime and get all pressure out... What's going on? Lol. Why truck still working with fuel pump relay out..

When I got my '88, a PO had hot-wired the fuel pump circuit to the ignition switch. Maybe you have a similar situation. I'd inspect the wiring (and maybe double-check that you pulled the right relay).

 

[RonD]

In a 2006 Ranger fuse #23(20amp) in engine fuse box is Fuel Pump power

Don't have a engine fuse box Relay diagram for 2006, but it should be labelled as FP Relay under the cover or on the board

When the FP relay is removed no power can go to pump, so you pulled the wrong relay or as Spott suggested there has been new wiring added

 

[Scettles]

Well mine is a 99... I pulled the relay my manual said was which... I ended up disconnecting the fuel pump at the fuel tank and then cycling the key a bunch and then did the job... Was no pressure in the lines. Truck has been running great for a few days. Runs better now honestly with a new fuel filter and pump. Here's to hoping everything stays smooth thanks for help

 

[Scettles]

Well I feel slightly dumb. Trying to leave work... Not starting. No fuel pump prime.... Theft light blocking rapidly... First time ever noticed it!!!! Got another key on the way hoping that's all it is? Anyone on with anything I can do or what all I might be getting into with this issue if it's not my key? Urgent timely answer would be lovely lol

Edit... Second key does same thing. Rapid flashing of theft light. So basically sometimes this has worked something not over last few weeks. But this first time I've actually looked for and noticed the theft light

 

[RonD]

Well I feel slightly dumb. Trying to leave work... Not starting. No fuel pump prime.... Theft light blocking rapidly... First time ever noticed it!!!! Got another key on the way hoping that's all it is? Anyone on with anything I can do or what all I might be getting into with this issue if it's not my key? Urgent timely answer would be lovely lol

Edit... Second key does same thing. Rapid flashing of theft light. So basically sometimes this has worked something not over last few weeks. But this first time I've actually looked for and noticed the theft light

Rapid flashing Theft Light after turning key to RUN means PATS(passive anti-theft system) could not "read" the key's number, or it was a non-matching number.
PATS Keys have an RFID Tag embedded in the handle, each tag has a unique number, RFID tags require no batteries.
When you turn on the key a ring around the key slot "reads" that tag number and sends it to the PATS module, this could be separate module or part of the main computer(PCM), 1999 has separate PATS module.
At the factory the PATS key's tag numbers that come with the new vehicle are programmed into PATS memory.

A mobile locksmith with Ford software can added new PATS keys to the system, or a Ford Dealer.

So either your keys RFID tags have been damaged, or the Antenna(ring) around the key slot is damaged, or PATS is faulty.

One thing, make sure you do not have 2 PATS keys on the same key ring, even if they are for different vehicles.
Although rare, if 2 PATS keys are in range of antenna, when it reads the number it gets a garbled number from the 2 keys, causing intermittent issues.

PATS keys can also be tested, to make sure the number that comes out is not "garbled".
Since you have 2 factory keys and neither work full time it points at antenna or module issue.
Antenna is also called the transceiver.

You can try a reset by unhooking the battery for more than 10 minutes, but long shot at best

 

[Scettles]

Normally I have two keys on my keychain... One for my truck and one for my wife's 2010 Kia soul. I also tried the solo ring by itself. What steps can I take to troubleshoot this. All the info you sent basically I found online. But found so many different things online. Basically saying tow to a dealership...

 

[Scettles]

Got a code 1:6 from the theft light blinking

 

[Scettles]

How annoying. Unplugged battery for 10 minutes and started right up. Tried a new PCM relay no difference. But then the battery trick did it... Where does that leave me now?

 

[RonD]

It would need to be another FORD key on the ring, another PATS key.

Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to main dealer

EECV is the computer(PCM)

BUT(big but)..........I would check your battery cables and then battery voltage when key is off, then when starter is active.
A good battery will show 12.3volts to 12.8volts after sitting overnight, under 12.3v battery needs to be replaced.
Must let battery sit for at least 5 hours(hooked up to vehicle) to get valid battery "at rest" voltage reading

Disconnect coil packs 4-wire connector, you want a No Start
Connect volt meter to battery
Have some one crank engine over while you watch the voltage, needs to stay above 9.8volts, 10volts is best.
If your cables are dirty or battery is old voltage will drop too low

Here's what can happen when a battery starts to get old.
You turn on the key, PATS runs the test and all is well
You try to start the engine, battery voltage drops too much and PATS AND Computer reboot, so new PATS test and low voltage causes bad "read" of key or communications with computer, code 1:6

 

[Scettles]

So with it working after a battery unplugged and what not like that is it most likely my battery? I have a regular battery... With after market speakers... 2 amps... And a sub... Never have a problem starting the truck but idk? Hoping it is just the battery

 

[Scettles]

My current question is this... Does the GEM module interact in anyway with PATS and could be culprit of a crank no start PATS code 1:6...got truck towed to get worked on... Truck wasn't starting. The first day guy started working on it it's been starting every day since lol. Of course it has... He just changed out the ignition or something with it as a blind guess. But his thoughts were maybe the GEM module because it was throwing a bunch of random codes from it like the 4 wheel drive knob thing..m driver's door something... IDK. I have a manual no power windows no power locks 99 ranger... Also where can I get a new one exactly... And do the GEM modules have to be flashed to the vehicle at all?

 

[RonD]

GEM is not part of PATS
GEM controls Cab electrics, wipers, lights, door locks, ect.........but has nothing to do with starting engine or engine electrics
Yes, GEM is programmable for vehicle options, and 1998-2000 it converted speedometer signal for tire size

PATS has 4 parts:
1. PATS key, has embedded RFID tag
2. Transceiver(antenna), it is a metal loop around ignition key cylinder
3. PATS module, this can be separate or built-in to the computer, from 2001 most were in the computer
4. Computer, runs the engine, of course, it needs the "OK" from PATS module to start injectors and fuel pump

If separate PATS Module, then the computer and PATS module are "married" at the factory, so neither can be swapped separately, Ford Dealer must "remarry" one or the other if a swap is needed.
The communications between PATS module and computer is RSA encryption, this means the "OK" is only good one time, each time you turn key on the "OK" code changes, it is a simple fast encryption and unbreakable in "real time".
The "marrying" is the RSA encryption "keys" used in each unit, so they can "talk" to each other.

The transceiver sends out a Radio(RF) wave burst, transmits, with key on, this gives the RFID tag in the PATS key just enough power to transmit its unique number, so no batteries needed in PATS key.
This tag number is sent to PATS module from transceiver, received, hence why the loop is called a "trans-ceiver", it isn't an electronic part, it is just a metal loop antenna.

PATS module checks the number it receives against its list of key numbers that have been programmed in, up to 8 keys can be added at any one time, oldest is dropped from list as new Keys are added, just FYI.

If a match is found PATS module sends the "OK" to start, if no match there is no message to computer, and this is when PATS starts to Flash Theft Light rapidly and a code if available.

I know all this is out there, but you seem to thing something is missing, it isn't.
You could have a loose wire between antenna and PATS module, or failing circuit in PATS module
When any problem is intermittent there is no way anyone can diagnose it firmly as "this is the problem".

 

[Scettles]

Appreciate the help yes all that info you shared I knew except the main question I asked... About the GEM... Because a dealer told me that might fix my issue... Which I didn't believe to be true... Kinda sucks when you get both sides from online... A dealer... A shop etc.. lol. I have access to some SCT tuning equipment... Just some random googling again I've got both sides answers of this question... But can I get a custom tune to turn PATS off? Next thing they saying is replace pats module and reprogram it all and they wanting 500 for that lol... And maybe replace the main ecu... Which will be more lol. Gotta love dealers