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Having an issue with these new shocks


Toms01PSD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
3,276
Age
34
City
Sanford, NC
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Automatic
I'm in the process of installing the new Bilstein shocks I just got. I ran into a big problem. How do you tighten the top nut without the piston rod turning? On the old Ford shocks it had a nut on the shock to hold onto to tighten/loosen but these new Bilsteins only have a lock nut to tighten down.
 
you can also grab a per of channel locks.
at the highest part of the shaft grab & hold tight then tighten down the nut!
 
the shaft should have an area where it has two machined flat spots where a wrench can be placed. if you use pliers or vise grips on the shafts and leave burrs, the burrs will wear the seals and cause the shocks to leak.
 
There wasn't any flat part on them so I stuck a bunch of rags in between the vise grips and piston rod and it didn't mess it up.

Next question.
Are the bushings suppose to be "pancaked" or are they suppose to be "fat". I don't have a torque wrench at the moment so i'm not sure how tight these bad boys are suppose to be.

They ride awesome!
 
By the way, who knows what special Ford tool this is on the top nut?
DSCF1970.jpg

:icon_surprised::icon_rofl::icon_rofl: (I stripped the nut using the correct 13mm wrench on the stock motorcraft shocks from 99. The truck sits about an inch higher now.)
 
By the way, who knows what special Ford tool this is on the top nut?


Ohhh! I do! Its a Fitzall, Rotundra tool number T716 1765 BA :beer:
 
Next question.
Are the bushings suppose to be "pancaked" or are they suppose to be "fat". I don't have a torque wrench at the moment so i'm not sure how tight these bad boys are suppose to be.

They ride awesome!

Don't the shocks have recommended torque specs?

Ride a bit better than the Gabrels?
 
Last edited:
Ohhh! I do! Its a Fitzall, Rotundra tool number T716 1765 BA :beer:

:D

I think that one's the Fitzall Rounder. Guaranteed to remove those sharp angled edges off the nuts and leave a nice round edge that won't scratch you.
 
Don't the shocks have recommended torque specs?

Ride a bit better than the Gabrels?

I believe so but the paper is a bit hard to read and I can't tell which torque spec is for my set of shocks. It is a generic paper they put in the box for all their shocks. The diagrams are crap and the sentences are jumbled.

As for the ride. I didn't get a chance to put the rears on because it took over 3 hours just to put the fronts on. I had to use my special Ford tool to get one nut off and that took forever. It does ride a hell of a lot better though. I'm doing the rears on monday so I can use the lift.
 
Last edited:
the fronts have an allen wrench access machined into the top you have to use a crows foot wrench to torque it properly while holding the piston with the allen wrench
 
the fronts have an allen wrench access machined into the top you have to use a crows foot wrench to torque it properly while holding the piston with the allen wrench

Holy old thread batman! I've had these shocks on for a month now...As for an allen wrench access hole, it's non-existant. They do ride good though!
 
I use a 2 foot extension on a 1/2" air ratchet and push the plastic inner fender out a bit from under the hood. Works like a champ!!!

By the way, who knows what special Ford tool this is on the top nut?
DSCF1970.jpg

:icon_surprised::icon_rofl::icon_rofl: (I stripped the nut using the correct 13mm wrench on the stock motorcraft shocks from 99. The truck sits about an inch higher now.)
 

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