Has anyone removed the OEM roof-rack on their B2/Explorer?

[mr_manny]

Looks like my new-to-me B2 has a small leak...appears to be coming from one of the roof-rack fasteners.
The OEM rack is secured via phillips-screws along each base/track.
I tried loosening one, but it's going to need additional persuading and/or penetrating oil.

Has anyone ever removed theirs?
Also, is there a universal weather-stripping or sealant anyone recommends?
Thanks in advance

 

[Snoranger]

I removed the factory roof rack on my 95 Explorer. All I did was unbolt it, throw it away, and siliconed the factory screws back into the holes. (Permatex clear silicone) I never had any kind of water leaking issues.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If there is a leak at the screw, then its going to be rust-welded to the roof skin. It will take a lot of force to break it free. Many times I've used a hammer and given the screwdriver a couple sharp raps while turning. That mostly works. Other wise there is a hand held impact driver that you again use a hammer to turn the screw. Failing those option I would remove as many screws as possible, then drill the heads off.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I removed the factory roof rack on my 95 Explorer. All I did was unbolt it, throw it away, and siliconed the factory screws back into the holes. (Permatex clear silicone) I never had any kind of water leaking issues.

After doing some work restoring a camper, clear silicone really isn't super great. It doesn't last very long and leaves a residue behind that makes fixing it correctly down the road much more difficult.

 

[mr_manny]

Good info.
Thanks

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

After doing some work restoring a camper, clear silicone really isn't super great. It doesn't last very long and leaves a residue behind that makes fixing it correctly down the road much more difficult.

Yes, so true! Nothing sticks to cured silicone, not even more silicone.

 

[Blmpkn]

After doing some work restoring a camper, clear silicone really isn't super great. It doesn't last very long and leaves a residue behind that makes fixing it correctly down the road much more difficult.

You're using the wrong clear silicone.

We somewhat frequently replace gutters that were installed by a specific local roofing company in the early 2000s. Instead of hanging the gutters behind the drip edge as they should be.. this guy just caulked the ever living eff out of the backsides of the gutter & the fascia and called it good enough.

Idk the exact product he used (big help, I know).. but once that stuff sets up there is NO breaking the bond. Literally can not get the gutter off the fascia.. gotta get the big bars out and pry the gutter, fascia, and shadowboard all off of the rafter tails together and start all over. Sometimes we'll get "lucky" and the house had wrapped fascias.. in that case we just yank the wrap off with the gutter and redo it.. I hate bending wrap though id rather just replace fascia lol.

Were always replacing them because he used vinyl wrapped steel.. stupid . 20 years and they're rotted through.. that damn sillycone though... Stronger than steel apparently.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You're using the wrong clear silicone.

We somewhat frequently replace gutters that were installed by a specific local roofing company in the early 2000s. Instead of hanging the gutters behind the drip edge as they should be.. this guy just caulked the ever living eff out of the backsides of the gutter & the fascia and called it good enough.

Idk the exact product he used (big help, I know).. but once that stuff sets up there is NO breaking the bond. Literally can not get the gutter off the fascia.. gotta get the big bars out and pry the gutter, fascia, and shadowboard all off of the rafter tails together and start all over. Sometimes we'll get "lucky" and the house had wrapped fascias.. in that case we just yank the wrap off with the gutter and redo it.. I hate bending wrap though id rather just replace fascia lol.

Were always replacing them because he used vinyl wrapped steel.. stupid . 20 years and they're rotted through.. that damn sillycone though... Stronger than steel apparently.

You are describing caulking, not silicone.
Silicone caulking is usually 100% silicone. Nothing sticks to it after it cures. Not paint, not other glues, not silicone. It can be a good adhesive, but whatever is getting caulked has to be cleaned of all oils and greases. I like using it for the last sheet of vinyl siding to go up. About 3" every 2' in the bottom of the sheet, and I've only ever had one sheet fall out in 35 years. And that last sheet can usually be pulled off with some effort because the siding has residual oils from the rolling process.
I think I know the caulk you're talking about, I've run across it before in renovation work and its a bitch to cut or remove.

 

[Blmpkn]

You are describing caulking, not silicone.
Silicone caulking is usually 100% silicone. Nothing sticks to it after it cures. Not paint, not other glues, not silicone. It can be a good adhesive, but whatever is getting caulked has to be cleaned of all oils and greases. I like using it for the last sheet of vinyl siding to go up. About 3" every 2' in the bottom of the sheet, and I've only ever had one sheet fall out in 35 years. And that last sheet can usually be pulled off with some effort because the siding has residual oils from the rolling process.
I think I know the caulk you're talking about, I've run across it before in renovation work and its a bitch to cut or remove.

I thought pretty much all caulking was silicone but yeah whatever tf it is that he used back then.. total nightmare. Real good product though apparently lol

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I thought pretty much all caulking was silicone but yeah whatever tf it is that he used back then.. total nightmare. Real good product though apparently lol

"Clear silicone" is usually the Versachem/Permatex stuff found with other silicones at a parts store.