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2.3L ('83-'97) Hard cold start (takes it several seconds) and a cyl 2 miss until it warms up and then runs fine. '97 XLT


Lindel

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
May 25, 2023
Messages
17
City
Tool, TX
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
The engine takes several seconds of cranking to start, and then, under light to moderate load it has a cylinder 2 misfire. I haven't tried full throttle yet, but I'm guessing it would be the same results. It's got new plugs and plug wires on the actual ignition side, I swapped out the coil pack for that side with a spare and no change, I even swapped the ECU with no change. The injectors are about a year old.

Any suggestions?
 
A wild guess, #2 injector is leaking fuel and fouls that plug. And since it's leaking, you lose all your fuel pressure in the fuel rail, so it takes some cranking to build the pressure back up. If you want to experiment, when you know it's going to mess up, turn the key to run but do not start the engine. Wait for the fuel pump to cycle. Then turn the key to off and back on and wait for the fuel pump to cycle again. Do this about 3 times and then try to start the engine. See if it cranks less. If it does, that is a sign the fuel rail was empty of fuel.
 
Thanks, I'll look at that tomorrow. I'll move the truck to the shop, since it's supposed to rain all day tomorrow.
 
We had a similar issue and tried all the steps you did with our 97 2.3 ranger. In addition, you can try the dollar bill test, or any small piece of paper like a receipt held up to the outlet of your exhaust, and see if you get sucking in on your exhaust pipe. If it does suck in, then your miss is due to a problem with the exhaust valve not sealing. If you think it might be the injector you can swap injectors in #1 and #2 and see if your code moves cylinder, but this requires pulling the upper intake. Also i didn't see a compression test on your list of things that you have tried. Try the compression test and dollar bill test prior to unbolting anything, they might lead to your culprit, for example if compression is good it is more than likely the injector. But if compression is poor, it is more than likely an open/stuck valve, creaked head or gasket, or piston rings, all of which have their own way of testing things once you get that far.
 
Checked that. The head is new and the valves are still good. If I cycle the key a couple of times, it starts fine, but still has a miss under load until it warms up. I bought some new injectors, and I'll install them this week.
 
Consider yourself warned that new injectors are usually of questionable quality these days. Especially the stupid cheap (less than $60 a set) ones.
 
No worries, I put Ford injectors into it, @ $200 for the set. Starts immediately and idles better. No code in a week, so I'm calling it fixed.
 

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