Had this happen Wednesday! 93 4x4

[stephenjeep]

Had this happend Wednesaday on my way home. I have since found out this is common for the 93-97? Dana 35 in these years. Luckily I found a 94 expoerer 4.0 4x4 on facebook marketplace 400 bones. Got lots of extra part too. I went tooo long not hearing the noise over the mud tire roar.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Had this happend Wednesaday on my way home. I have since found out this is common for the 93-97? Dana 35 in these years. Luckily I found a 94 expoerer 4.0 4x4 on facebook marketplace 400 bones. Got lots of extra part too. I went tooo long not hearing the noise over the mud tire roar. View attachment 132405View attachment 132406

That really isn't what would call a "common failure". Sure it happens... but usually after improper installation or lack of maintenance. You really should have felt that by the truck want I ng to follow lines in the road... and steering not wanting to return to center. Not to even mention the brake pedal being low from that loose rotor pushing the caliper piston back in.

 

[stephenjeep]

That really isn't what would call a "common failure". Sure it happens... but usually after improper installation or lack of maintenance. You really should have felt that by the truck want I ng to follow lines in the road... and steering not wanting to return to center. Not to even mention the brake pedal being low from that loose rotor pushing the caliper piston back in.

You would have thought something other than the truck leaning then big grinding noise and pull hard to the left. I heard nothing till it let loose on the winding road to my house after work. I had looked in to this after and found that other people had this problen these years because the bearing only have a less than half inch between them. later ford moved the bearings apart to aleviate this problem. Unless other forums had mislead me.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The later trucks use half shafts and unit bearings... entirely different set up.

However... they require no maintenance or bearing adjustment.

 

[stephenjeep]

The later trucks use half shafts and unit bearings... entirely different set up.

However... they require no maintenance or bearing adjustment.

Yes. I read an article on here that someone had taken the spindles off a dana 44 from a full size ford truck or bronco to get wider bearing spacing. I dont remember the years they suggested. They had to change axles shaft and a wheel spacer or run different rims for wider bolt pattern. The article I read about the 35 spindle bearing problen says it only occured with bigger tires as I have.

 

[stephenjeep]

The later trucks use half shafts and unit bearings... entirely different set up.

However... they require no maintenance or bearing adjustment.

Worse part was I eat up the warn locking hubs I found at a pic-a-part when I first got the truck in 2019. I put one of the no name ones I had from when I previously switched them.

 

[bobbywalter]

it is a common problem with big tires. BIG tires. heavy tires.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Those aren't big tires...

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've put a half million miles on a TTB D35... 31x10.50x15 and never burned up wheel bearings.

 

[2011Supercab]

Looks like you're running a fairly deep dish wheel, bearings hate that.

 

[4x4junkie]

I think the biggest cause for this happening is people using mis-matched bearing races & cones (the spacing of the bearings has little to do with it).

Aftermarket brake rotor manufacturers actually encourage this shit by pre-installing cheap junk races into the rotors they sell (people then unwittingly reuse their old cones, or buy new cones of their own) which this eventually causes the bearing rollers to disintegrate & fail.
Never mix different brand / different quality / new & used / used & (other) used races & cones!
(this was once basic common knowledge, but somewhere that seems to have went out the window with the companies making rotors for the D28 & 35).

I have always bought Timken SET-37 matched bearing sets for mine (available at RockAuto and elsewhere), and knocking out any race that might be already there and replacing it with the Timken race.

Another area that can be of concern is the book-specification of 150 ft-lbs for the bearing locknuts (this if you have manual-locking hubs). 225 ft-lbs works better to keep these tight if one is running oversized tires.

Doing both these, I've not had any trouble with the bearings on my D35 running 35x12.50 tires (over 20 years now and still going).

 

[stephenjeep]

I think the biggest cause for this happening is people using mis-matched bearing races & cones (the spacing of the bearings has little to do with it).

Aftermarket brake rotor manufacturers actually encourage this shit by pre-installing cheap junk races into the rotors they sell (people then unwittingly reuse their old cones, or buy new cones of their own) which this eventually causes the bearing rollers to disintegrate & fail.
Never mix different brand / different quality / new & used / used & (other) used races & cones!
(this was once basic common knowledge, but somewhere that seems to have went out the window with the companies making rotors for the D28 & 35).

I have always bought Timken SET-37 matched bearing sets for mine (available at RockAuto and elsewhere), and knocking out any race that might be already there and replacing it with the Timken race.

Another area that can be of concern is the book-specification of 150 ft-lbs for the bearing locknuts (this if you have manual-locking hubs). 225 ft-lbs works better to keep these tight if one is running oversized tires.

Doing both these, I've not had any trouble with the bearings on my D35 running 35x12.50 tires (over 20 years now and still going).

I dont know what bearings were in it before this happend. I went with Autozone duralast brand bearings so I could get it back on the road. I did change races in the rotor. I thought the 150 ft-lbs was alot, but thats what i did. I usualy buy from Rock auto and have a new set on the way.

 

[SenorNoob]

The problem I always have is the inner nut turning when I crank down the outer. I know part of is crappy lock rings. Mine seem to always just slide right into the threads on the spindle. I usually reset things 4-5 time because is the inner nut turn.

That should've been VERY hard to follow a straight line before it got that bad. I can see the camber off in a paved parking lot before I have noticeable wear. I do make a habit of checking it whenever I approach from the front of the truck though.

 

[stephenjeep]

The problem I always have is the inner nut turning when I crank down the outer. I know part of is crappy lock rings. Mine seem to always just slide right into the threads on the spindle. I usually reset things 4-5 time because is the inner nut turn.

That should've been VERY hard to follow a straight line before it got that bad. I can see the camber off in a paved parking lot before I have noticeable wear. I do make a habit of checking it whenever I approach from the front of the truck though.

It's pulled to the right since I got it, so I really didn't notice it till it let loose. When I replaced the bearings and spindle I had noticed the inner nut turning. I'm planning on replacing the autozone bearing with the Timken I have orderd when i'm off next. I'll check and make sure the lock washer didnt ride over the thread.

 

[SenorNoob]

Hard to tell from the picture, but you might need the whole spindle.